Well, now I've went and done it.

[DeeDeeCues]

I've got some Tomahawk coming as it had great recommendations also, and it was the 1st material I found when ordering. Have to say, even though I ordered on the weekend, I called the 1st thing this morning to try and add another rod to my order and it had already been put in the mail. They are a 1st class operation for sure, great service. Now I just have to wait for the epoxy as the stuff I had I didn't like as it took forever, days, to cure. While I'm never in much of a hurry, I would like to be able to work it the next day.

Pretty much all epoxy is fully cured after 72hrs. The 5-min, 1-hour, 24-hour ratings are based on a percentage of full strength. If the epoxy was still liquid or very pliable after days, it is either bad or you didn't mix properly (ratio or not actually stirring enough).

 

[muskyed]

Pretty much all epoxy is fully cured after 72hrs. The 5-min, 1-hour, 24-hour ratings are based on a percentage of full strength. If the epoxy was still liquid or very pliable after days, it is either bad or you didn't mix properly (ratio or not actually stirring enough).

It was that JB welded clear 5 min. I used it about 5 times on that project and after the 1st time not setting up I was real careful.
Must be bad as it took almost 3 days to firm up. That's why I ordered some different stuff for now.

 

[Kim Bye]

Tomahawk is a vastly better material than the brittle ferrule material Rhino uses.

 

[Kim Bye]

I've got some Tomahawk coming as it had great recommendations also, and it was the 1st material I found when ordering. Have to say, even though I ordered on the weekend, I called the 1st thing this morning to try and add another rod to my order and it had already been put in the mail. They are a 1st class operation for sure, great service. Now I just have to wait for the epoxy as the stuff I had I didn't like as it took forever, days, to cure. While I'm never in much of a hurry, I would like to be able to work it the next day.

You need a epoxy that suitable for the job. 5min epoxy, regardless of the brand is junk! Use a slow cure epoxy. Get a scale that accurately measures small amounts, lay a playing card on the scale, power it on, weight out equal parts of the epoxy (or whatever ratio the manufacturer recommends.) and thoroughly mix the epoxy, this usually leaves the epoxy slightly cloudy.
I always make a point of saving to the playing card with the epoxy leftovers, so I can check that the epoxy has properly cured. 24 hours is usually enough for it to set up enough for use, but for something like a basecoat, I always wait 72 hours before sanding. If the epoxy comes off in small lumps, it's not cured, it should come off as a fine white powder.

 

[muskyed]

I've used epoxy for years and never had an issue till this last time. My other epoxy had got old so I went out and all I could find was this stuff and didn't want to wait to order some longer cure higher strength stuff. It was just an experiment I was doing on something anyway. It just didn't fully harden up and was slightly tacky to the touch the next day. After about 3 days all was fine, but that was it for that stuff, never had that happen before. I'm fully familiar with letting things cure first before sanding as I have a very extensive woodworking background. I've ordered some new epoxy in a couple different cure rates. Thankfully all this playing around has been on my own stuff.

 

[jokers_wild96]

It was that JB welded clear 5 min. I used it about 5 times on that project and after the 1st time not setting up I was real careful.
Must be bad as it took almost 3 days to firm up. That's why I ordered some different stuff for now.

I had this recently happen to me about 2 months ago. I used it to glue something together and the next day it was rubbery. I look at the bottles and one has a cloudy bottom. They were new bottles purchase earlier in the summer.

 

[Dave38]

I've got some Tomahawk coming as it had great recommendations also, and it was the 1st material I found when ordering. Have to say, even though I ordered on the weekend, I called the 1st thing this morning to try and add another rod to my order and it had already been put in the mail. They are a 1st class operation for sure, great service. Now I just have to wait for the epoxy as the stuff I had I didn't like as it took forever, days, to cure. While I'm never in much of a hurry, I would like to be able to work it the next day.

I use T-88 and it is a 24 hr cure time. It works VERY well, not cheap but worth it.

 

[SSDiver2112]

I've got some Tomahawk coming as it had great recommendations also, and it was the 1st material I found when ordering. Have to say, even though I ordered on the weekend, I called the 1st thing this morning to try and add another rod to my order and it had already been put in the mail. They are a 1st class operation for sure, great service. Now I just have to wait for the epoxy as the stuff I had I didn't like as it took forever, days, to cure. While I'm never in much of a hurry, I would like to be able to work it the next day.

I’ve always had great service from Kelly. I ordered some Hydex recently to try out. Not as white as Tomahawk. If I like it can be a good alternative when I don’t want a bright white ferrule.

My slow cure epoxy is getting low so I’ll have to look into the T-88

 

[fab944]

I use T-88 and it is a 24 hr cure time. It works VERY well, not cheap but worth it.

I used T-88 previously and switched to SystemThree's BLADE PRO. It's their knife maker epoxy.
It has good impact resistance and flexible bond, which I believe offers benefits when installing ferrules.
I'm halfway thru a pint of it and have been pleased with it's characteristics and results.

SystemThree - BLADE PRO

 

[boogieman]

I had this recently happen to me about 2 months ago. I used it to glue something together and the next day it was rubbery. I look at the bottles and one has a cloudy bottom. They were new bottles purchase earlier in the summer.

I have some 5 minute jb clear epoxy. I bought it to repair really shitty $35 house cues for the local pool hall. They are animals and crack and break the ends off all the time. Once I fix them they are stronger as they were hollowed out to maybe be LD or something... with a fat conical tapered house cue with absolutely brittle wood.

Anyway, the resin was about 6 months old and starting to be cloudy. I googled and read somewhere you can heat it up and mix it. I boiled water in a pint jar and set it in there for about 20 minutes. Stirred it with a bamboo skewer. They say to let it reach room temp before using. It cleared up well and got to the normal consistency. It worked really well. I wouldn't necessarily trust it for work on a customer's cue but it did work and no problems with the cues.

There is mixed info, some say they've done it to 10 year old epoxy and it was fine, others say it might not be the same strength. It worked but again, I don't think I'd do it on paying work, these were just done for charity to help the hall out and get practice at repair work.

 

[dendweller]

Up to now, I have really limited what I will agree to do on friends and friends of friends shafts. I will replace tips, ferrule and retaper wood shafts to a certain point.
Carbon shafts, just my own for now. Looks like I need to order one of those smaller boring bars to fix this shaft as the ones I have, I don't think are small enough.
This fix looks to be simple actually, I just need to order some materials, not sure if hydex or tomahawk, guess it really doesn’t matter that much between the two.

Messing with someone elses cf shaft is something you really need to be confident in. There's a revo 12.4 in the for sale for 300 in the for sale section, far less than revos in good shape. This one's problem is the person that put the tip on put a fairly small scratch in the shaft. People say cf is indestructable and they may not bust all that easily but if you guage it, scratch it etc. you got a problem.

 

[muskyed]

I use T-88 and it is a 24 hr cure time. It works VERY well, not cheap but worth it.

Thank's Dave. I had looked that up and ended up ordering some BSI 5 min and 15 min stuff. They say the 15 min version is there most flexible, we'll see I guess. Quite honestly the reason I didn't get the T88 was I was able to get both the 5 min and 15 min for the same price as the T88. Hope I don't regret it. It is just a spare shaft for me so if I have problems I'll just have to redo it. I do appreciate all your help.

 

[DeeDeeCues]

Messing with someone elses cf shaft is something you really need to be confident in. There's a revo 12.4 in the for sale for 300 in the for sale section, far less than revos in good shape. This one's problem is the person that put the tip on put a fairly small scratch in the shaft. People say cf is indestructable and they may not bust all that easily but if you guage it, scratch it etc. you got a problem.

CF is actually a pretty weak material in many load cases.

 

[jayman]

Tomahawk is a vastly better material than the brittle ferrule material Rhino uses.

I have some of that. It is very interesting stuff. I can cut it like butter with a lathe and I can finish it fairly easily with a file, But it seems impossible to affect with sand paper. I like love the end result, but it's not as user friendly as I had expected. It sure is nice once its all polished up though!

 

[SSDiver2112]

I have some of that. It is very interesting stuff. I can cut it like butter with a lathe and I can finish it fairly easily with a file, But it seems impossible to affect with sand paper. I like love the end result, but it's not as user friendly as I had expected. It sure is nice once its all polished up though!

I have no big issues with sandpaper. I make the last passes with the lathe small and slow to reduce tooling marks. Sand with 320-400 perpendicular to the marks and then sand with the finer grits.