What are Cue Levels?
- Thread starter Tom B
- Start date
I think it depends on the workmanship in the cue.
For example, a simple Merry Widow with no inlays may be a level 1. A cue with points and no inlays may be level 2 or 3, etc. The fancier the work and harder the skill level for the cue maker, the higher the level. I'm not sure how high the levels go, but it doesn't go sky high.
For example, a simple Merry Widow with no inlays may be a level 1. A cue with points and no inlays may be level 2 or 3, etc. The fancier the work and harder the skill level for the cue maker, the higher the level. I'm not sure how high the levels go, but it doesn't go sky high.
Seems cues should have two ratings. Craftsmanship and playability. Funny you would think with a rating system based on added craftsmanship (points/inlays) would give an idea of price range. However that's not usually the case. I have seen the lowest rating go for much higher than the highest rating.
Who determines "playability"?
Only one person can determine playability and that is the person playing with the cue.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2
The owner or someone who shot with the cue. You see it a lot on the for sale section. Selling stating how good the cue plays. Sure they might be trying to boost the sale or they might be giving their honest opinion. There are post all over this forum about what players thought good and bad about a cue. Its all subjective and I get that. However, if there was a poll or something than some cue makers might come up short on playability or get a great rating. Goes both ways. Not everyone buys based on looks or who the cue maker is. Many ask about buying a cue for playability. Actually most are asking for playability first. Then everyone gives their different opinions. Some for and some against.
Cue levels refer to the intricacy of the cue's design.
The number of points and inlays in the cue's design determine the level rating of the cue.....the higher the level, the more expensive the cue by that particular cue-maker. It has absolutely nothing to do with the cue's playability.
The number of points and inlays in the cue's design determine the level rating of the cue.....the higher the level, the more expensive the cue by that particular cue-maker. It has absolutely nothing to do with the cue's playability.
http://www.internationalcuemakers.com/?page=cuegallery
ICA Cue Grade Levels:
Level One: House cue conversions, break and jump cues and simple non-inlaid cues with wraps.
Level Two: Basic cues with points and or very basic inlay designs.
Level Three: Very nice inlaid cues that are primarily made to sell in the players mid-price range from a few hundred up to $1500.
Level Four: These cues are what would be considered mid-priced collectors range and normally sell for $1500 up to $3000 and must be very nice in design and originality.
Level Five: These cues are considered high-end collectors grade cues and normally sell for $3000 and up and would include exceptional design, originality and complexity of design.
ICA Cue Grade Levels:
Level One: House cue conversions, break and jump cues and simple non-inlaid cues with wraps.
Level Two: Basic cues with points and or very basic inlay designs.
Level Three: Very nice inlaid cues that are primarily made to sell in the players mid-price range from a few hundred up to $1500.
Level Four: These cues are what would be considered mid-priced collectors range and normally sell for $1500 up to $3000 and must be very nice in design and originality.
Level Five: These cues are considered high-end collectors grade cues and normally sell for $3000 and up and would include exceptional design, originality and complexity of design.
What does playability mean? Seems every time I hear about playability everyone refers to the hit. That is subjective and varies from player to player. So how do you judge playability? What about deflection or cue ball control? For me, I don't like having to force a draw shot. The same draw stoke can have various results from cue to cue. They say each cue deflects differently. Maybe one cue makers cue deflects much more than another. Looks aside. Why do players switch playing cues?
It's a little more exact than that and the Hawaiianeye fails to consider the cue-maker or whether the cue-maker is still active, retired or deceased.
The level rating determines the complexity, intricacy of the cue-maker's cue design but not the price........his post albeit well intended is essentially without any value. He trying to be helpful but it's obvious he does not understand cue values and just ignore what he posted.
The bottom-line is a level 3 cue from one cue-maker can be worth $2-3k or more than a level 8 from some other cue-maker. The cue-maker's reputation and scarcity/availability are determining factors plus the complexity of the cue's design. There are standards for evaluating the value/price of pool cues in the secondary resale market which he has overlooked. Appearing below is the accurate answer for cue level ratings:
Level 1........4 Points, (hustler)
Level 2....... 0 Points & 0 - 25 Inlays
Level 3........2 - 6 Points & 0 - 8 Inlays
Level 4........4 -10 Points & 9 - 25 Inlays
Level 5........0 -12 Points & 26 - 50 Inlays
Level 6........0 - 12 Points & 51 -75 Inlays
Level 7........0 - 12 Points & 76 - 125 Inlays
Level 8........0 - 12 Points & 126+ Inlays
Veneers are not considered as inlays and the cue-maker's reputation is far more important than the cue level.......a Joel Hercek cue is a splendid example.
The level rating determines the complexity, intricacy of the cue-maker's cue design but not the price........his post albeit well intended is essentially without any value. He trying to be helpful but it's obvious he does not understand cue values and just ignore what he posted.
The bottom-line is a level 3 cue from one cue-maker can be worth $2-3k or more than a level 8 from some other cue-maker. The cue-maker's reputation and scarcity/availability are determining factors plus the complexity of the cue's design. There are standards for evaluating the value/price of pool cues in the secondary resale market which he has overlooked. Appearing below is the accurate answer for cue level ratings:
Level 1........4 Points, (hustler)
Level 2....... 0 Points & 0 - 25 Inlays
Level 3........2 - 6 Points & 0 - 8 Inlays
Level 4........4 -10 Points & 9 - 25 Inlays
Level 5........0 -12 Points & 26 - 50 Inlays
Level 6........0 - 12 Points & 51 -75 Inlays
Level 7........0 - 12 Points & 76 - 125 Inlays
Level 8........0 - 12 Points & 126+ Inlays
Veneers are not considered as inlays and the cue-maker's reputation is far more important than the cue level.......a Joel Hercek cue is a splendid example.
Last edited:
Well it's obvious this rating system is flawed or outdated.
Tom B
Registered
Thanks for the explanation(s). Brings up the question, though of the 'hit'. I see this often and find that confusing. I hope one day to have the 'hitting' experience to understand the concept. Have seen where Meucci, for example is a soft hit, while the McDermott a med to hard hit. I have used several Mcd's and played with a friends older Meucci's and still don't really understand it.
Tom B.
The hit / feel of any cue is a totally subjective evaluation by the player...........but there are many structural considerations in the fabrication of a cue that tangibly affect the way a cue plays and feels.......tips, ferrules, shaft wood / shaft weight / shaft size and taper, different cue joints and different pins, type of wrap, cue butt weight and butt diameter, overall cue weight and balance point are just some off the top of my noggin that come to mind.
The anatomy of a cue and the type of components, type and quality of wood and the method of assembly all combine to create the cue's feel / hit / playability.........too much to elaborate in a single post.
Matt B.
The hit / feel of any cue is a totally subjective evaluation by the player...........but there are many structural considerations in the fabrication of a cue that tangibly affect the way a cue plays and feels.......tips, ferrules, shaft wood / shaft weight / shaft size and taper, different cue joints and different pins, type of wrap, cue butt weight and butt diameter, overall cue weight and balance point are just some off the top of my noggin that come to mind.
The anatomy of a cue and the type of components, type and quality of wood and the method of assembly all combine to create the cue's feel / hit / playability.........too much to elaborate in a single post.
Matt B.
LOL! Don't blame me, Blame the ICA, I just posted their link. Not only do a lot of the cuemaker's not deliver their cues on time, they can't even keep their website up to date.
Wait till you get into the fact that a tiny change like a different tip will make a cue feel totally different or that the taper and construction of the shaft affect hit as much as anything else, aside from the actual maker of the cue and the pin and joint type. As well as the type of wood used.
Playability
As you said playability is very subjective
Playability in a cue is going to be diffrent from player to player , it depends more on what feels right to the individual player and thier style and skill level at the time.
I have a Palmer Sneaky made 1984 , that i have owned since 86 and it played wonderfully for me when i first began to take the game seriously , over the years as my style changed and my skill level rose I for lack of a better word out grew this cues playability.
So i serached until i found a cue that again gave me same comfort and feel that matched my current level of play , and felt right in my hands
I now have 8 playing cues , my old trusty Palmer sneaky , a couple of meuccies , a Joss , a Custom or two , and my current player which is a Schon SP.
Playability in a cue is a personal thing no two players will likely agree on what cue has the best playability because no two players play exactly the same.
Try as many cues as you can , dont make your decision on a cue based on the reviews of other players , they can advise you on cue craftsmenship and quality sure , but make your secision based on what feels right for you
You may be suprised at what you find is your perfect fit , also over time your game is going to change and what is right today may not be right 2 years from now , dont be afraid of changing your cue to suit your game. Good Luck and keep hitting em
As you said playability is very subjective
Playability in a cue is going to be diffrent from player to player , it depends more on what feels right to the individual player and thier style and skill level at the time.
I have a Palmer Sneaky made 1984 , that i have owned since 86 and it played wonderfully for me when i first began to take the game seriously , over the years as my style changed and my skill level rose I for lack of a better word out grew this cues playability.
So i serached until i found a cue that again gave me same comfort and feel that matched my current level of play , and felt right in my hands
I now have 8 playing cues , my old trusty Palmer sneaky , a couple of meuccies , a Joss , a Custom or two , and my current player which is a Schon SP.
Playability in a cue is a personal thing no two players will likely agree on what cue has the best playability because no two players play exactly the same.
Try as many cues as you can , dont make your decision on a cue based on the reviews of other players , they can advise you on cue craftsmenship and quality sure , but make your secision based on what feels right for you
You may be suprised at what you find is your perfect fit , also over time your game is going to change and what is right today may not be right 2 years from now , dont be afraid of changing your cue to suit your game. Good Luck and keep hitting em
To me the question is how much 'work' does the cue do? Personally I want to cue to do more work than I do. I traded cues with another cuemaker during some fart around time during BCA week. His idea is that one should have to work to make the cueball react. My idea is that the cue should do the work, the less work I have to do the better. Playability is the amount of work the cue does relative to what you personally think should happen. If the cue does more than your experience says it should it does more 'work' than you think it should. If the cue does less than your experience says it should it does less 'work' than you think it should. The amount of work it does that you prefer is a personal preference based on your experience, expectations and aggressiveness. Think the cue should draw just a little further and spin the ball a little more? Or are you surprised when a cue actually draws further than you think it should or spins the balls a diamond further ?