What can you do with a warped forearm?

[PaulL]

I've got a cue with a spliced-point forearm and I just found out that it's warped. Is it junk?

 

[Craig Fales]

How warped are you talking?? A slight warp might be fixable...

 

[PaulL]

Well, if you roll it while holding the butt flat to the table, the tip comes up off the table about .25". It's enough that just rolling it flat causes it to hop on the table like a house banana stick.

Oh God, it hurts just talking about it.

 

[bandido]

Is the warp in the forearm or where the forearm meets the wrap?

 

[PaulL]

It appears to be in the forearm near where the forearm and wrap meet. I don't feel or hear anything loose there, so I don't think it's a construction issue. Is there something specific there that I should check for?

 

[Craig Fales]

Roll it without the shaft and tell us how much gap there is at the in the middle...

 

[jazznpool]

snooker cue?

Martin

I've got a cue with a spliced-point forearm and I just found out that it's warped. Is it junk?

 

[PaulL]

It's actually this cue and it has about a 1/16" gap under it about 1" up from the wrap/forearm joint.

 

[bandido]

The problem may be in the forearm to handle joint but I'm not 100% positive since I'm picturing you rolling it without any pressure on either end. Try rolling, just the butt, first with pressure on the joint end 'til you see the highest lift on the buttcap. At what point does the cue's edge touch the table? Take note of this contact point. Now do the same with your hand pressure on the butt cap end and take note of the contact point when the joint is furthest from the table surface.

If the contact point is in the same forearm to handle area then the handle can be replaced to re-align the cue.

 

[cueman]

Bandido is right about the most common place for the warp to be. Often the cue will warp at the wrap joint and can be cut and re-tenoned back together by only replacing a small section. I would suggest you having a experienced repairman do this.

 

[PaulL]

The problem may be in the forearm to handle joint but I'm not 100% positive since I'm picturing you rolling it without any pressure on either end. Try rolling, just the butt, first with pressure on the joint end 'til you see the highest lift on the buttcap. At what point does the cue's edge touch the table? Take note of this contact point. Now do the same with your hand pressure on the butt cap end and take note of the contact point when the joint is furthest from the table surface.

If the contact point is in the same forearm to handle area then the handle can be replaced to re-align the cue.

Yeah, it is in the same place. How does that process work? Do you just cut an angle into the handle/forearm joint to straighten it out when assembled?

 

[bandido]

Yeah, it is in the same place. How does that process work? Do you just cut an angle into the handle/forearm joint to straighten it out when assembled?

The above unfortunately is the lazy man's system. I've repaired quite a bit of highend cues coming from Japan as ivory transit to and from it and PI is not as strict as to and from the US. I normally replace the whole section and in this case the handle. I start-off with x-raying the cue and deciphering its construction system. Weighing it and taking note of its balance point is my next step before dismantling the problematic part. With me, it takes about 50% as much time as building the cue from scratch as slow trim down and curing schedule of the adhesive is still followed.

Look for an experienced repairman closest to you.

 

[PaulL]

The above unfortunately is the lazy man's system. I've repaired quite a bit of highend cues coming from Japan as ivory transit to and from it and PI is not as strict as to and from the US. I normally replace the whole section and in this case the handle. I start-off with x-raying the cue and deciphering its construction system. Weighing it and taking note of its balance point is my next step before dismantling the problematic part. With me, it takes about 50% as much time as building the cue from scratch as slow trim down and curing schedule of the adhesive is still followed.

Look for an experienced repairman closest to you.

Ok, I'll definitely try to find someone with some experience in this area. Thanks for the info. If any of you ever find your way to Houston, I owe ya one.