What else should I grab

Cue Crazy

Cue Crazy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The paint supply finally located me a quart of the chromoclear snap dry, and I need to go down in the morning to pick it up. Just wondering what else I should pick up while I'm down there? I just bought a new mask, cause the filters are bad in my old one, I will be getting some sealed goggles elsewhere,and I figured I'd grab a disposible hood and coveralls. I think I know what activator to try.

what I'm thinking here is stuff for mixing, straining, cleaning the gun, or cleaner to prep the surface. What would be the recomendations, and is there anything I'm missing?


Thanks in advance.:)

Greg
 
naptha to prep,laquer thinner to clean,coffe filters to filter paint and small mixing cups for the paint.
 
Hey thanks a bunch Mason,:)

I asked anyway, but I was pretty sure on the thinner to clean the gun, and I have that already. That reminds me I have to get a brush kit too. My gun didn't come with one. I think I saw them at Finishmasters, hopefully I can get a set for a reasonable price.

The Naptha was what I was trying to remember, and I wanted to make sure I cleaned with the correct stuff, so the finish will adhere well. I really apprieitate the help on that one.

Although It sounds familiar, It has slipped My mind if I've heard of It, and I wasn't aware that coffee filters would work. I was thinking the paper strainers with the cutout and screen in the bottom, but those things would add up in cost over time. What a money saving Idea that will be, and just throw them away after use. Thanks again for that tip.

Ok, think I have a list together for tommorow, You've been a big help Bud:)

Greg
 
Hi Greg,
I didn't see measuring spoons on your list. I use a set of stainless steel 'kitchen' type. Whether your mix is 1:1, 2:1 or 4:1, you'll want to get it fairly close. Don't worry about it being exact.

I use 3oz. Dixie cups to mix the finish in before it goes in the gun. They're cheap and disposable. Generally speaking, I use 1tsp. finish to do 3 shafts, 1 session. 4 to 5tsp. to do 1 handle, 1 session. If any of your work requires a second session, your mix volumes will go down. You'll get a better sense of this once you start shooting.

If you're starting with a brand new gun, you'll want to clean it out real well. You won't believe the crap that resides in the mix chamber. Grease, oil, silicon thread sealer and microscopic pieces of black 'packing' mtrl. Any of these can wind-up in your finish if you don't clean the gun before hand.

Start with a light mist-coat on everything and give it a 5 to 10 min.'flash' time. Then shoot everything again with a somewhat 'wetter' coat. Give it another 5 to 10 mins. and if you've got any finish left in the gun, use it on the spots that need it. When you're done shooting, run some lacquer thinner through the gun and go to lunch or whatever. After an hour or two, when you come back to the shop, make sure you give the shop a little ventilation while you're in there so the fumes can exit. Oh yeah, also, read the can or the instruction sheet. There's some good info there that may vary by manufacturer. If I can help further, let me know.
 
Hi Greg; I started with lacquer, then Emron, then Chromaclear & now the Snap Dry. It is the nuts. I give a final sanding of 600 (with the grain), then wipe it down with mineral spirits & shoot the clear. I use the steel mixing spoons to measure the 4-1 mix. I stir with a wooden stick & mix right in the touch up gun's cup. Remember, that you can't spray your next coat, over a dry coat. If you can leave a fingerprint in the tacky clear, it's just right for the next coat. Each coat should be a fairly WET coat, not dry. The flash dry time for this stuff is only a couple of minutes, so you'll have to stay with it, till you're done spraying. Get yourself some wide mouth plastic bottles with a cap that seals good. I use energy drink bottles. These are good for lacquer thinner & leftover clear. When you're done spraying, pore out the left over clear, put an 1" of lacquer thinner in the cup & with a lint free rag or paper towel, wipe out the cup. Then pore out the used thinner & fill up the cup with lacquer thinner. Spray the thinner throught the gun, while adjusting the nossle from wide open, to closed. That will clean out any clear, left in the internal parts of the gun. Disconnect the gun from the hose & hang it up. When you're ready to spay again, just spray some of the lacquer thinner through the gun, empty the remainder into your bottle, wipe out the cup & you're ready to fill & spray clear again. Oh by the way pick up a can of FISHEYE PREVENTER. Any brand will work. You only need 2 drops in you touch up guns cup. Hope this helps...JER
 
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If it hasn't been mentioned.......air line filters are very important...I use a minimum of two in the line...getting ready to start using three with the last one right at the gun. Keep the moisture out of your tank and lines or it'll play hell on you. I would consider a desiccant type drier if I were in a high humidity area.
 
Hey You guys are great, what a wealth of info, should makes things alot easier for me. I want to Thank each of You that posted here, and Thanks to those that I spoke to in PM also.:)

Greg
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
Hi Greg; I started with lacquer, then Emron, then Chromaclear & now the Snap Dry. It is the nuts. I give a final sanding of 600 (with the grain), then wipe it down with mineral spirits & shoot the clear. I use the steel mixing spoons to measure the 4-1 mix. I stir with a wooden stick & mix right in the touch up gun's cup. Remember, that you can't spray your next coat, over a dry coat. If you can leave a fingerprint in the tacky clear, it's just right for the next coat. Each coat should be a fairly WET coat, not dry. The flash dry time for this stuff is only a couple of minutes, so you'll have to stay with it, till you're done spraying. Get yourself some wide mouth plastic bottles with a cap that seals good. I use energy drink bottles. These are good for lacquer thinner & leftover clear. When you're done spraying, pore out the left over clear, put an 1" of lacquer thinner in the cup & with a lint free rag or paper towel, wipe out the cup. Then pore out the used thinner & fill up the cup with lacquer thinner. Spray the thinner throught the gun, while adjusting the nossle from wide open, to closed. That will clean out any clear, left in the internal parts of the gun. Disconnect the gun from the hose & hang it up. When you're ready to spay again, just spray some of the lacquer thinner through the gun, empty the remainder into your bottle, wipe out the cup & you're ready to fill & spray clear again. Oh by the way pick up a can of FISHEYE PREVENTER. Any brand will work. You only need 2 drops in you touch up guns cup. Hope this helps...JER
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Jerry,

Just curious, but what does fisheye preventer normally cost You? I got the guy down there at Finishmasters to price some for me, and He quoted Me over 70 bucks? That seemed kind of high, seeing I spent less then that on the clear It'self, and so I passed on It for now. I think He said like $78, but I'm starting to wonder if that quote wasn't including the cost of the clear and activator.:confused: maybe he was giving me a total, and I confused It for the price of the fisheye stuff by It'self.

Thanks for the info,

Greg
 
Cue Crazy said:
Jerry,

Just curious, but what does fisheye preventer normally cost You? I got the guy down there at Finishmasters to price some for me, and He quoted Me over 70 bucks? That seemed kind of high, seeing I spent less then that on the clear It'self, and so I passed on It for now. I think He said like $78, but I'm starting to wonder if that quote wasn't including the cost of the clear and activator.:confused: maybe he was giving me a total, and I confused It for the price of the fisheye stuff by It'self.

Thanks for the info,

Greg
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Since you only have to use 2 drops, the can I have is really old & I don't remember the cost...JER
 
Cool Deal!! Thanks Fella's, and Arnot thanks for the link, I didn't realize they had the stuff there, and the price definatly sounds better to Me.

I don't know if I misunderstood the guy or not. It was dupont brand I think, and was in a big 2 part looking bottle, so could have been that expensive, but It wasn't even the recomended stock# that was listed on the data sheet, so I figure the brand doesn't really matter as long as It does what It's intended to do.

Anyway I really apprietiate all the help & suggestions,:)

Greg
 
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