What English To Use

Tennesseejoe

Tennesseejoe

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The one ball is a chalk's width from the rail. The cue ball is on the head spot. The objective is the cut the one ball in to either of the foot corner pockets. What English would you use? Swerve and or throw may come in to play. This shot is possible.

This not a masse shot and can be done on a 7, 8. or 9 foot table.
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I would still play it rail first with inside. There used to be a guy just south of Chicago who could put the 1ball on the 1st or 3rd diamond and cut the ball into the opposite corner from that cueball position. I'm sure we could all do it with some practice, but I have never been satisfied enough with my play to practice gaffs and gimmicks.
 
What <side> spin you use depends on where you hit the 1-ball, and to a lesser extend how hard you hit the 1-ball.
 
If you dont hit the rail first, I am thinking outside spin helps the CB find the pocket.....

(but I would bank this)
 
Tennesseejoe said:
The one ball is a chalk's width from the rail. The cue ball is on the head spot. The objective is the cut the one ball in to either of the foot corner pockets. What English would you use? Swerve and or throw may come in to play. This shot is possible.

This not a masse shot and can be done on a 7, 8. or 9 foot table.
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I used to make this shot often on a 7' bar box with a regular maple shaft. BUT... OB was real close to the rail. Once I went to LD it's the one shot I haven't really figured out.

Basically I hit it with fairly extreme inside english and to dead center object ball, the deflection/throw/swerve would make it. Speed was the crucial aspect. I don't know that it is, but I always refered to it as a half masse since the CB swerved and seemed came back to the OB a bit.

I'll be honest I don't have a clue if it was rail first, but it may have been. It was hard to tell from the opposite end of the table, being that straight on.
 
If you're going to cut the ball -- not rail first -- you need to use maximum outside, deal with the swerve, and hope the balls are dirty. Anyone who wants to try this with clean balls gets 20 tries.

The OP says to cut the ball in, not kick it in, so all the rail first suggestions are invalid. All the banks are bogus too -- not what the OP asked about.
 
JolietJames said:
I would still play it rail first with inside. There used to be a guy just south of Chicago who could put the 1ball on the 1st or 3rd diamond and cut the ball into the opposite corner from that cueball position. I'm sure we could all do it with some practice, but I have never been satisfied enough with my play to practice gaffs and gimmicks.
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That's how I would play it. Cutting it in without a rail, not sure that's a very possible shot. I have cut a ball in with inside spin with some funky angles, even backwards angles off the rail. Not sure where I learned it from, but the measurement for that shot is to aim off the ball the distance it's from the rail with spin. So if it's 1/8 inch off the rail, you aim 1/8 inch away from the ball and spin the cueball to it. Can't say I know that works for sure, and probably won't work if the ball is too far from the rail, but that's what my brain it telling me the way to shoot the ball is.
 
skiergd011013 said:
allison fisher nearly made this same shot against jeanette lee in that "omega billiards" challenge that is on youtube. She did it rail first with inside. So, cant argue with her!
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This is not a kick shot..it is a cut shot. Cue ball to object ball is the only contact.
 
It looks like an impossible shot but the OBJECT ball touches the short rail first which makes the pocket bigger. If you look at it from either one of the foot rail corner pockets you will see the pocket looks bigger.
I saw Alex Pagulayan make this shot on the third try at JOBs Billiards on a 7 foot table. It is much harder on a 7 foot table. I made it many times on a 9 foot table but it took 'many many many' tries. Oh, I used outside English.
 
Technically it will go as long as it's hit. You have the whole pocket plus as much cheat as if it were straight in. As far as cinching it, practice.
Max outside is the norm but varying degrees of inside give you a sighting tool (inside allows you to stroke at the contact point). Center or near center ball allows you to shoot the shot as a carom. IOW you forget the pocket and just square off to the tangent line.

Your results may vary. :D
 
Tennesseejoe said:
The one ball is a chalk's width from the rail. The cue ball is on the head spot. The objective is the cut the one ball in to either of the foot corner pockets. What English would you use? Swerve and or throw may come in to play. This shot is possible.

This not a masse shot and can be done on a 7, 8. or 9 foot table.
View attachment 714113
Click to expand...

Use a lot of outside spin. So if you're cutting it to the right hand pocket a lot of left hand spin, the spin creates spin induced throw which means you can hit the 1 slightly (fractions of a mm) thicker and still cut it in.

As many of the replies are mentioning, this shot while not impossible is extremely low percentage and there are several better options to pocket this ball.

I suppose it's also not impossible to cut this shot in without outside english but I would consider that an even lower percentage shot.
 
Tennesseejoe said:
This is not a kick shot..it is a cut shot. Cue ball to object ball is the only contact.
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I thought this was a "how would you hit it" proposition.
If I could not go rail first I would definitely hit it with a load of outside.
I will bet against someone shooting the shot but will not spend any time to become remotely proficient at something I would never shoot in a game.
 
JolietJames said:
... I will bet against someone shooting the shot but will not spend any time to become remotely proficient at something I would never shoot in a game.
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It's a bad shot at nine ball but it is fine at one pocket as long as you actually hit the ball.
 
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