PORKYS POOLHALL
DONNELLY'S CUSTOM CUES
What Glue Do You Prefer For Tips? I Like To Use Loktight Gel. Also Do You Like To Use Air To Blow Off The Tip And Ferrule Or Do You Find That Causes A Problem?
What Glue Do You Prefer For Tips
- Thread starter PORKYS POOLHALL
- Start date
Super glue gels are great for tips. Loctite is one of the best. As far as blowing off the tip , do you mean blowing the dust off? If so , that is fine. I usally just take a towel and wipe off. Or a paper towel works good to.
Are you pressing your tips on? This really helps along with roughing the back of the tip with a semi rough sandpaper to help it stick to the ferrule.
Hope this helps,
Jim
Are you pressing your tips on? This really helps along with roughing the back of the tip with a semi rough sandpaper to help it stick to the ferrule.
Hope this helps,
Jim
dave sutton
Banned
PORKYS POOLHALL said:
i also use locktite. havent hap a problem in 10+ yrs using it.
i live right down the pike . i do all the work in the area and for AC billiard club formally billiards on the green.
i will have to come down and meet you. maybe we can put our minds together
If you press a Medium Moori what you have is a medium Moori that plays instantly like it will after 10 or 20 hours of pounding it against the cue ball.Cuedog said:
If you press a Soft Kamui what you have is a soft Kamui that plays instantly like it will after 10 or 20 hours of pounding it against the cue ball.
Unless you want to change your tip every few hours of play, to maintain that out of the box feel. You might as well press them if they need pressed to prevent mushrooming, as they will get that hard anyway in a short time. Tips are like long distance runners. It does not matter as much how fast they run the first 100 yards, it matters how they run after the longer distance.
As far as the original question: I use Loctite Super Glue Gel or Loctite 454 for thicker glues for normal leather tips, and Loctite Professional for applications where a thinner glue works better like on Phenolic tips.
Last edited:
Cuedog said:
I think what (I know, I know, there I go thinking) he said was pressing the tips ON. As in maybe using a concave center to apply pressure to the tip as the glue is setting. Of course, I can't read the man's mind, but that's what I thought of when I read it.
Shakes got it right. I use super glue gel and a little preassure with a concave live center till the glue sets. It helps get the air bubbles out for a good bond with a reduced chance of the tip popping off.
Loctite 454, a little accelerator, and you should have zero problems....
cueman said:
That's one of the reasons why I press some tips too. They require less shroom trimmings also. I offer those for free afterwards anyway when I install a tip. Some players make transitons well, and can compensate easier then others. The change in the firmness of a tip can throw some players perceptions off though. I have seen the differences, If you don't do it then alot of players also have to go through an ajustment period with the tip, as when you press them, that period is not as long, if any ajustment is needed at all. I've had too many people tell me whatever You did to that last tip do it again on this shaft to warrant doing It, and all I did was simply press those paticular tips.
I've even had a recent boom on those triangles that I mentioned using the butane on when I pressed to get them to hold without soaking. It's purely come from people hitting with a fellow patron's cue that I put one on for, and then wanting the same on their cue. I don't usually do those pressed, but have played around with them before, and most people that have tried them seem to like them.
Some people do notice the difference in a pressed tip, even if they don't know what that difference is. I've had a few people that hated pressed tips, a couple were friends, and would always say "no don't press" when ever I asked how they wanted it done. for years they would go on about not pressing them, then gripe an cry about how crappy the tip played until about the time it got worked in, then I noticed they tapered off with the crying, and started playing better. I had one friend that was notorious for doing that, so I played a trick on him, and pressed one without telling him. he instantly started playing well with the tip, and said now that's how you do it, whatever I did was the right way, or it was a better quality tip. Well it was the exact same tip size and from the same batch, only difference was that I pressed it. He doesn't tell me not to press them anymore
. Since then I have pulled the same trick a couple of times to prove My point.
I'll do what the customer wants though, but if they don't want to be fooled, then they better not complain, and actually know what they want.
I do know a couple of people that have no issues with a unpressed tip though. I think that's because they ajust quicker & easier to the changes.BTW My answer to the glue I use is 454, but I have used loc-tite, and many of the gels that some others use. Most of them do work pretty well, but some people just have their preferences as to which holds up better for them.
I just blow the dust off the face of the ferrule as if I were blowing a candle out. If anything is left then I wipe it with a fresh paper towel, but I do so from the center and out, so I don't roll any burrs over on the face that may have been created during the facing operation.
Greg
You both hit it on the mark. Chris is correct in pressing the tips before instalation , and Shakes said it well with the way I put them on. When I say press , I press all of my tips in a small vise , not torquing them , pressing them. After they are pressed , I sand the backs, and install using my lathe to add pressure thru my tailstock and a concave center.
Chris knows the way , really helps on breaking the tip in , and spending the first night working the tip instead of playing pool.
And for those having trouble glueing Moori's and other layered tips , this just might help you out a bit.
Just my way,
Jim
Chris knows the way , really helps on breaking the tip in , and spending the first night working the tip instead of playing pool.
And for those having trouble glueing Moori's and other layered tips , this just might help you out a bit.
Just my way,
Jim
Activator?
Anyone use ACCELERATOR? Anyone have opinions about using it on tips?
Anyone use ACCELERATOR? Anyone have opinions about using it on tips?
Last edited:
I use Loctite Pro with no accelerator, I think it would make an unnecessary mess on the ferrule...billiardbum said:
ACCELERATOR actually sets off the super glue when applied. Sorry I used activator...I call this item both names.RocketQ said:
I have the same stuff Jim. Insta-Set. I got Mine from Atlas, and I have used It In the past, I believe You and I may have talked about that before, but we didn't mention the brands I don't think. Seems we used the same.
I have used It when doing tips before, but I'm not really using it anymore. I figured out some of My issues were due to oversized concave I was using to clamp with, and now I'm having really good luck with tips holding, but i'm not using the accelerator anymore. It's not that I think it was causing any problems though. I just don't seem to need it for that. I do use it when I have to lap a tip using the thin ca, because it saves time.
Really other then what I've mentioned recently here in threads, the only other stuff I'm doing right now Is clearing alittle glue out of the tube, to make sure I don't use the stuff on top, and get to the good thicker part. I sqeeze some out on a plate, and maybe let it rest for a very short time period, then I apply it to the ferrule and tip with flat tooth picks, and clamp using My thumb, holding preasure long enough for it to kick off, then after I release the preassure I let it sit before trimming. I have to keep over 100 house cues tipped for the local pool hall, and usually I have atleast 1-3 of those to retip a week, sometimes more, since I started doing things this way, that seems to be improving though. In the last 3-4 weeks I have only had to replace a bumper on one of them, none needing the tip put back on or replaced.
I do, do that thing mentioned in the other thread also, and breath on them.
John, It seems oily to me also, and I was suprised that ca would stick to It, but it does like you say. Guess that's why I don't dought some of the reports in the thread about CA finishing, even though I've never tried them using the stuff that was mentioned. Greg
I have used It when doing tips before, but I'm not really using it anymore. I figured out some of My issues were due to oversized concave I was using to clamp with, and now I'm having really good luck with tips holding, but i'm not using the accelerator anymore. It's not that I think it was causing any problems though. I just don't seem to need it for that. I do use it when I have to lap a tip using the thin ca, because it saves time.
Really other then what I've mentioned recently here in threads, the only other stuff I'm doing right now Is clearing alittle glue out of the tube, to make sure I don't use the stuff on top, and get to the good thicker part. I sqeeze some out on a plate, and maybe let it rest for a very short time period, then I apply it to the ferrule and tip with flat tooth picks, and clamp using My thumb, holding preasure long enough for it to kick off, then after I release the preassure I let it sit before trimming. I have to keep over 100 house cues tipped for the local pool hall, and usually I have atleast 1-3 of those to retip a week, sometimes more, since I started doing things this way, that seems to be improving though. In the last 3-4 weeks I have only had to replace a bumper on one of them, none needing the tip put back on or replaced.
I do, do that thing mentioned in the other thread also, and breath on them.
John, It seems oily to me also, and I was suprised that ca would stick to It, but it does like you say. Guess that's why I don't dought some of the reports in the thread about CA finishing, even though I've never tried them using the stuff that was mentioned.
Greg