What is the best way to remove a ferrule?

JohnnyP said:
Chris: It's a new cue, so I guess it should have a normal ferrule/tenon.

What do you think of my idea to "semi-predatorize" the shaft? The method leaves the original ferrule in place. Not ideal, but the shaft should play better than it does now. I'm afraid to spin the ball with it. Love to do it with my old cue.


Remove tip
Bore 1/4" hole x 6" deep
Install 1/4" end plug
Install new tip
Click to expand...

I don't think it would work successfully with your idea. Firstly, most tenons are only 5/16", if you drill a 1/4" hole that only leaves a 1/32" wall thickness and that is if you drill it perfectly and the ferrule wasn't screwed on as in that case the threads would be deeper into the tenon leaving less than a 1/4".
I think a better idea would be to take off the ferrule, drill your hole and iether put on a new ferrule with a short nipple for a tenon or better yet get a short tube of carbon fibre to use as a very lightweight and strong tenon.
Dick
 
Ok, I'm getting the picture. If I drill out the tenon, then the ferrule is basically just sitting on the end of the shaft.

In the Predator patent, it looks like they use the shaft itself as a large diameter tenon.

Looks like whatever I try, I'm going to lose about 3/4" length.

Time to order a predator shaft?
 
As i said before, the only way you could be a Predator shaft longer than 30" would be to buy a Predator Partial (supposed to be 30.25) (You could check out some of these places.)
If the repairman/cue maker is careful, after the insert/joint rings are installed, you could stay really close to 30.25.
Also, if the joint rings to match your cue are wide enough, the back of the shaft can be bored out and a new tenon added and the width (or length, whichever way you look at it) of the rings can add to the overall length.

HTH, FWIW ICBW,

Jon
 
Jon: Will Viking sell the shaft joints?

I chose the double threaded joint 3, and would like to keep the cue looking stock.
 
Ack...
And now we have a road block.
You might want to contact Viking and see if they do Predator shaft fittings from the partials (to get the longest length possible.)
 
BiG_JoN said:
Ack...
And now we have a road block.
You might want to contact Viking and see if they do Predator shaft fittings from the partials (to get the longest length possible.)
Click to expand...



Rut Ro shaggy :D , That is a stout looking joint. threaded pin and collar. What do they call that one? Looks like it could be a nightmare to fit a shaft & a time consuming job for a repair guy as far as shaft work goes. I aggree probably be cheaper just to have them do that, if they will match a partial.
 
Cue Crazy said:
Rut Ro shaggy :D , That is a stout looking joint. threaded pin and collar. What do they call that one? Looks like it could be a nightmare to fit a shaft & a time consuming job for a repair guy as far as shaft work goes. I aggree probably be cheaper just to have them do that, if they will match a partial.
Click to expand...

That's what is called Vikings " Super Joint ", it's been one of their options for many years.
Dick
 
rhncue said:
That's what is called Vikings " Super Joint ", it's been one of their options for many years.
Dick
Click to expand...


Thanks, I've seen just about every other production cue come through here, but never really get vikings in for repair, even for a tip job. Seems like I may have had one with a different style joint a while back, but rarely see them here. Anyway, looks unique. Curious to how they hit.

Apprietiate the info, Greg
 
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