What kind of table is this

shewmake

shewmake

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
It looks like a old Brunswick to me but I could be way off the post said its from the 20s or 30s. I would also like to ask how much you guys think it would be worth I don't want to overpay Thanks Jacob
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Hard to say for sure, maybe a Victor, Brunswick, Saunier,,,,,,

I will say it's got the widest corners I've ever seen on a snooker table, as well as the strangest rack of 15 reds.

Very interesting table,,,,,,,,10 footer 2 boot.
 
Table

I'd pass unless you want a table to look at, even then it's going to take a lot of work to get it to look nice. That table looks to be missing parts.

If you want a players table get a players table , if you want a furniture table to look nice in your home I suggest you find a more modern table on Craigslist.

The snooker tables are expensive to service/set up and you'll only find parts that a king could afford. Snooker tables are a headache unless you are a full time snooker player.




Rob.M
 
What's the best way to check the slate I know it can Crack can it also warp. I have a old 7 ft one piece slate table now I was just looking for something different
 
what would it cost to get something like this upgraded a little would it be worth it
 
I can tell you for sure, upgrading so to speak will cost more than the price of the table....but you first have to find someone willing to do it.
 
realkingcobra said:
I can tell you for sure, upgrading so to speak will cost more than the price of the table....but you first have to find someone willing to do it.
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Would I be better off keeping my old 7ft one piece 1" slate bar table that had the return took out and drop pockets put in. Its not a valley or cougar all I know is that its old. I would like to try and get it to play like a diamond pro/am so of course I would like the pro cut pockets. I would think that I would have to have new cloth put on and the rails redone. I measured the pockets and they are 4 1/2 witch I think is standard. Hear are a few pictures I can take some more if needed. my table 1.jpg

my table.jpg
 
shewmake said:
Would I be better off keeping my old 7ft one piece 1" slate bar table that had the return took out and drop pockets put in. Its not a valley or cougar all I know is that its old. I would like to try and get it to play like a diamond pro/am so of course I would like the pro cut pockets. I would think that I would have to have new cloth put on and the rails redone. I measured the pockets and they are 4 1/2 witch I think is standard. Hear are a few pictures I can take some more if needed.

2 balls will not fit in a 4 1/2" pocket like that. The balls are 2 1/4" each x 2=4 1/2"
This is a 4 3/8" pocket
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One problem you will have is it already looks like your pocket shelfs are not very deep, when you tighten the pockets you lose more pocket shelf. That means that the ball will be sticking out pretty far when sitting on edge of slate just before it drops. The shallow pocket shelfs is one thing that makes Valleys plays easy. Diamonds have a deeper pocket shelf which makes them play tougher.
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Is there any what to make it play better. when I measured the pocket I went from inside to inside it said 4 1/2 maybe im wrong butt either way I just want a table that plays good.
 
shewmake said:
Is there any what to make it play better. when I measured the pocket I went from inside to inside it said 4 1/2 maybe im wrong butt either way I just want a table that plays good.
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That all depends on your budget, and what your ultimate goals are.. If you just want something to play around on, the Irving Kaye can be made to play decent. If you want a table that will allow you to improve your game to its fullest potential, and you have the space and money, you should consider getting a quality 9' table.

For around $300, you can get a new set of rails, either from Ridgeback Rails or Penguin Amusements, and new cloth (Championship Mercury Ultra is about $100). Spend another $30, to get the Simonis cloth installation DVDs, and you can install your own cloth. Don't feel like doing it yourself? You can likely find a local guy to do it for anywhere in the range of $50-200. If you want, you can also order the new rails with cloth already installed.

If you give us an idea of your budget and your goals, it would be easier to give advice. The first table that you posted will be a money pit. You will have expense in moving it, setting it up, converting the rails from snooker to pool, replacing/repairing the leather drop pockets.. Getting it functional would be a costly venture. Making it "nice" would cost a small fortune. Though, you would never get any kind of return on your investment, other than your own personal enjoyment.
 
if I could put about 500 in the one I got now would that be enough to get done what I needed to be don't to get it to play decent
 
Thank you for all your help Geoff if you don't mind can I ask one more question? Do you have a preference to witch rails would be better the ridgeback or the penguin?
 
I have found the customer service to be excellent with both manufacturers.

I like the theory behind the design of the Ridgeback Rails, though my only experience installing them has been on 2 Valley bar tables, with Simonis 860 cloth. I was happy with the results, despite Simonis 860 being too fast for a barbox.

I have only installed one set of Penguin Amusement rails (On an Irving Kaye 'Silver Shadow'), but I have played on dozens of sets. I believe the quality was similar to Ridgeback Rails, and I think the price was about the same. I also think they play about the same as the Ridgeback Rails, but I don't really have a fair comparison, as the Ridgeback Rails were on tables with much faster cloth. The majority of barboxes around here have Championship Mercury Ultra cloth, which is what I recommend to anyone with a 7' table.

I would suggest calling each manufacturer, and ask them any questions that you may have. Let your own personal opinion of their customer service make the decision for you. I don't think you'll be disappointed either way.

Good luck.
 
Once again thank you very much Geoff I have made contact with both. Once I decide on one and get everything set up I will let you all know how it turned out for me. Once again a big thank you to all of the az mechanics that have helped me find my way I appreciate each and everyone of you for you help. Thanks Jacob
 
Table

shewmake said:
Once again thank you very much Geoff I have made contact with both. Once I decide on one and get everything set up I will let you all know how it turned out for me. Once again a big thank you to all of the az mechanics that have helped me find my way I appreciate each and everyone of you for you help. Thanks Jacob
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If you like the diamond blue label tables you'll never be happy with a old coin op.
I suggest you sell all the pool related item you have and put that money towards a diamond.
If your a player get a players table. Don't mess with the headaches of the bangers tables. After you spend at least $500 for new cloth and rails it will still not be a decent players table and the $500 will be a shot in the bucket spent on a shitty built speaker cabinet.




Rob.M
 
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