What makes a good cue?

Push&Pool

Push&Pool

Professional Banger
Silver Member
I recently bought a 58 inches, 20 oz cue which I personally enjoy using. It's better than any cue I tried before, it feels great in my hand and my shooting improved once I got it. But I'd like to know objectively, in which quality category my cue fits into? It has following attributes:
- water buffalo 13mm tip
- melamine ferrule
- shaft made of Canadian maple wood
- synthetic leather wrap

So, quality-wise, does it qualify as total garbage, low-level or a mid-level cue?
 
Sounds like a trick question.

All that matters is that it feels good in your hands and you shoot good with it.
 
If it works for you its a Great cue . Cost , big name , really don't make it a better Shooter . And that's what it was made for , shooting . Jim:thumbup:

Edit === Not going to get much for $25. buck . Altho I did buy a Dufferin at Good will for 3.95 , changed the tip and ferrel , added a joint and pin . and made a real nice shooter .
 
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What makes a great cue is a great player! But if you want to get technical with it; You can also say certain woods will last longer and are less likely to wrap if they have been dried properly and worked with properly. For the most part if you cue rolls straight and your comfortable with the weight and balance then you have a great cue.
 
I judge a cue based on the power index I can achieve when utilizing the RAM shot. You should try this as well.
 
MahnaMahna said:
I judge a cue based on the power index I can achieve when utilizing the RAM shot. You should try this as well.
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I'd like to personally welcome you back, sir.....
...your humor isn't for everyone, but you make MY day on occasion. :D

to the OP......
A $25 cue may hit well, but usually not for long, unless it's a sneaky pete.
The ferrule and collars start to loosen and warps appear.

Eventually you should get a good cue 'cause you have enthusiasm for
this game.....my favorite cue is 46 years old....you'd have to buy a lot of
cheap cues in that time span to still have a playable one.

A poor man can't afford cheap tools
 
Pretty much what PT said. If you play even close to daily, like some of us do, you may want to upgrade in a few months or less. Remember, in cues, like most other things, you get what you pay for. Many people are happy with a mid range name brand production cue. I'm not but that's just me. I started playing with a custom cue about my third or fourth year and have never looked back. I have no idea what a good production cue would cost you in your part of the world, but I think you'll want to look into it in the very near future.
 
pt109 said:
I'd like to personally welcome you back, sir.....
...your humor isn't for everyone, but you make MY day on occasion. :D

to the OP......
A $25 cue may hit well, but usually not for long, unless it's a sneaky pete.
The ferrule and collars start to loosen and warps appear.

Eventually you should get a good cue 'cause you have enthusiasm for
this game.....my favorite cue is 46 years old....you'd have to buy a lot of
cheap cues in that time span to still have a playable one.

A poor man can't afford cheap tools
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Pushout said:
Pretty much what PT said. If you play even close to daily, like some of us do, you may want to upgrade in a few months or less. Remember, in cues, like most other things, you get what you pay for. Many people are happy with a mid range name brand production cue. I'm not but that's just me. I started playing with a custom cue about my third or fourth year and have never looked back. I have no idea what a good production cue would cost you in your part of the world, but I think you'll want to look into it in the very near future.
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Well, I guess time will tell. For now it's in great shape and I see no reason for it to fall apart. If it does happen I think I'll get a McDermott Lucky or Sneaky Pete
 
Push&Pool said:
I recently bought a 58 inches, 20 oz cue which I personally enjoy using. It's better than any cue I tried before, it feels great in my hand and my shooting improved once I got it. But I'd like to know objectively, in which quality category my cue fits into? It has following attributes:
- water buffalo 13mm tip
- melamine ferrule
- shaft made of Canadian maple wood
- synthetic leather wrap

So, quality-wise, does it qualify as total garbage, low-level or a mid-level cue?
Click to expand...

visit a local airport and have the cue with you, find a vacant x-ray machine and ask the guy to run it through.
this may cost a handful of singles.

watch the screen carefully, then you'll see for yourself, with your own eyes,
whether or not you have a good cue worth keeping.

also - knock up and down the cue, listen to the sounds it makes, is that what you want
 
Push&Pool said:
Well, I guess time will tell. For now it's in great shape and I see no reason for it to fall apart. If it does happen I think I'll get a McDermott Lucky or Sneaky Pete
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Actually, McDermott is one I would recommend, I'm not sure of the prices lately and I haven't hit one in years. If I remember right, they have the best guarantee in the business.
 
Pushout said:
Actually, McDermott is one I would recommend, I'm not sure of the prices lately and I haven't hit one in years. If I remember right, they have the best guarantee in the business.
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Thanks, I'll remember the advice :)
 
Different for everybody (as seen).
The ultimate goal is to be able to play your best game regardless of the table condition, ball condition or pocket size.
If you use a cue you play with often, that equation is eliminated.
Myself, I started collecting cues for various reasons.
1 to try different styles of joint configurations. IE stainless steel 5/16-14, 5/16-18, 3/8-10. Wood too wood in 3/8-10, radial. Phenolic joints and so on. Out of these I've bought production cues and once I found what I liked, I bought custom cues. I've found for me Production wise I like Joss and Canadian made Falcon stainless steel joint cues, 3/8-10 and radial cues. This was tested when I got an Allen Green cue recently that I believe is a 5/16-18 joint but not a stainless steel variation.
2 try different configurations of shafts. Solid maple, solid old growth maple and shaved maple (turned to a thinner diameter) different ferrule lengths, production low deflection shafts and a few custom LD shafts. Out of these I have gravitated back to solid maple shaved to 12.50-12.75 mm with the 3/8-1" ferrule.
3 I wanted to see what kind of tips work better for me (though these can be changed from shaft to shaft)
4 the wrap. I originally liked the linen wraps a lot. Then played with a wrapless and then a leather wrap. I have found that doesn't make much of a difference to me and I like them all.
5 balance. Balance is important to me.

Out of all the cues I've played with and own, my favorite come down to my most recent cue (Allen Green) which was bought used and a Robert Harris custom that I had ordered exactly how I wanted. Since I got the Harris, I had the wrap changed from linen to leather and one of the shafts shaved down to 12.60mm.

YMMV. Just my 0.02¢
 
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Jim Baxter is replying to this thread. Save some money, say $300-400, and ask Jim what he can make you with that. And it will be the last cue you will ever need

Ben
 
Push&Pool said:
I recently bought a 58 inches, 20 oz cue which I personally enjoy using. It's better than any cue I tried before, it feels great in my hand and my shooting improved once I got it. But I'd like to know objectively, in which quality category my cue fits into? It has following attributes:
- water buffalo 13mm tip
- melamine ferrule
- shaft made of Canadian maple wood
- synthetic leather wrap

So, quality-wise, does it qualify as total garbage, low-level or a mid-level cue?
Click to expand...

You listed nothing that would make the cue good or bad.

Just a bunch of parts with no way to say how good they are or how good they are put together.

It's like asking how good a car is by listing: 4 rubber wheels, metal construction, molded plastic steering wheel, cushioned seats.

Don't waste time buying 5 different cheap cues, get one decent one for about $100-300. Buying a $25 cue that is cheaply made, then buying an "upgrade" for $50 then another one for $60 etc... is silly.
 
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