A little long...sorry.
Ordered simonis 760 cloth for a late 1800’s to early 1900’s Rossato Barry 4.5’ X 9’ pool table with return pockes.
Asked for:
Simonis 760, new cushions, redo some of the leather on the pocket irons, new leather gully boots new fringe, new pocket liners. Asked to have the slates installed and leveled on a restored base box sitting rather level. Asked for the rail cushions to be high enough so that rail shots rode on the cloth and not the wood rail. Also had him reline the ball return box with felt. Delivered the rails to his shop with pocket months before the install. requested tight pockets.
He came over replaced the slate and leveled them and installed the cloth on rails then table and bolted up the rails. He said the table looked like it has only benn recovered 2 or maybe 3 times since new.
We paid him and he left.
The first thing we noticed were fold marks in the cloth 22”s apart all the way down the table. The cloth is tight but you can always see it almost like the fibers were disturbed. We also noticed a rainbow like shadows where the cloth was stretched at different angles into the pockets and down the table. We thought all of it would come out when the table was brushed a few times. It doesn’t.
I had asked for tight pockets and mentioned double shimmed. He showed up with single shimmed and I said I don’t need double shimmed as long as they are tight or average for good players. They are 5” corners and 5.5” sides which feel like buckets to me.
I asked that the cushions be high enough that the cue rides on the cloth during rail shots and breaks. He said he could not raise the cushion to do it but would handle it with a bigger or higher feather strip. The cue rides on the wood all around the table.
We can also see the pull marks all down the under side of the rails where the staples are pulling the cloth.
I happen to love rail shots and found that I can’t hold a ball to the rail down one side of the table. When I run my fingers down the slate where the ball runs down the rail I can feel the cloth off the surface where the plugs were not sanded and can feel a divot in the slate when I slide the cue ball down that rail. You can hear it when you do it fast. When we put a 4’ level on the cushion across the side pocket there is a gap on one side of the pocket when held as a strait edge to the other cushion.
We have tried to live with this for two weeks now and want someone else if not him to do it right. I visited Tacony Billiards (a local hall) to pick up some stuff and visit a friend and found the hall tables covered beautifully. In fact the local bar table looks and plays better than this.
I have pictures if helpful.
What should I have expected?
Is there someone of Real King Cobra's caliber in the Philadelphia area.
Ordered simonis 760 cloth for a late 1800’s to early 1900’s Rossato Barry 4.5’ X 9’ pool table with return pockes.
Asked for:
Simonis 760, new cushions, redo some of the leather on the pocket irons, new leather gully boots new fringe, new pocket liners. Asked to have the slates installed and leveled on a restored base box sitting rather level. Asked for the rail cushions to be high enough so that rail shots rode on the cloth and not the wood rail. Also had him reline the ball return box with felt. Delivered the rails to his shop with pocket months before the install. requested tight pockets.
He came over replaced the slate and leveled them and installed the cloth on rails then table and bolted up the rails. He said the table looked like it has only benn recovered 2 or maybe 3 times since new.
We paid him and he left.
The first thing we noticed were fold marks in the cloth 22”s apart all the way down the table. The cloth is tight but you can always see it almost like the fibers were disturbed. We also noticed a rainbow like shadows where the cloth was stretched at different angles into the pockets and down the table. We thought all of it would come out when the table was brushed a few times. It doesn’t.
I had asked for tight pockets and mentioned double shimmed. He showed up with single shimmed and I said I don’t need double shimmed as long as they are tight or average for good players. They are 5” corners and 5.5” sides which feel like buckets to me.
I asked that the cushions be high enough that the cue rides on the cloth during rail shots and breaks. He said he could not raise the cushion to do it but would handle it with a bigger or higher feather strip. The cue rides on the wood all around the table.
We can also see the pull marks all down the under side of the rails where the staples are pulling the cloth.
I happen to love rail shots and found that I can’t hold a ball to the rail down one side of the table. When I run my fingers down the slate where the ball runs down the rail I can feel the cloth off the surface where the plugs were not sanded and can feel a divot in the slate when I slide the cue ball down that rail. You can hear it when you do it fast. When we put a 4’ level on the cushion across the side pocket there is a gap on one side of the pocket when held as a strait edge to the other cushion.
We have tried to live with this for two weeks now and want someone else if not him to do it right. I visited Tacony Billiards (a local hall) to pick up some stuff and visit a friend and found the hall tables covered beautifully. In fact the local bar table looks and plays better than this.
I have pictures if helpful.
What should I have expected?
Is there someone of Real King Cobra's caliber in the Philadelphia area.
