What should one expect converting a 3/8x10 shaft to piloted 5/16x14?

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Impact Blue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a black collar OB-1 that I want to convert for my Schon STL-1's joint. And also, if not too expensive, with matching ring on the collar like the cue as well.

I've posted a little bit about it, but something about this cue makes me want to customize in to something totally my own: stacked wrap, Tad style buttcap, 30" LD shaft, new buttcap probably making it a 30" butt....

So, really two questions:

1. How much should I be expecting to pay on the shaft's joint work?

2. Should I just scrap this idea and save up for the entry level Tad of my dreams? lol, or wrapless Judd...kekeke

Thanks for your thoughts guys. I'm really just trying to find the one I'm going to use for the long haul.
 
I would customize the shaft for now but leave the butt of the cue alone. You lose the value of the Schon when start customizing it, thus never being able to sell it or trade it.

You are better off saving up and having a cue custom build or finding the Tad you want, with the spec you want.

To answer your other question, I charge $45 to match that OB shaft to your Schon, collar and insert.
 
sometimes when converting a shaft already to size you can loose dead perfect center. when building a normal shaft you shaft with a shaft oversized at the joint. you tap the shaft ect, put it on the cue and cut /sand until iut perfect. basically your working from the inside out.

on a shaft to size your working from the outside in.

as far as "value" i wouldnt worry about it. schons arent the best for resale. in other words yor never gonna break the bank with that cue. your cue is the plain maple cue. id do whatever you want. nothing against your cue so dont take it that way
 
What you ask can certainly be done with the shaft. It's a little involved but not rocket science. The way I see it, if you are wanting to match the ring-work exactly, the finished shaft will be about .065" shorter when done (roughly 1/16"). Assuming your black collar is .470" and the Schon ring stack is .405", you'll loose the difference in the overall length of the shaft.

When I was first reading your post I was thinking $50. Then I read Ryan's post ($45) and was happy that I was in the ball-park. If you want pro work, that's about what it's going to cost.

I concur with Ryan on the butt of the cue, leave it alone.

To follow-up on Dave's post, your 3/8 x 10 OB shaft is already oversize (.845/,850") to the Schon (.835"). Finding & holding DNP center should not be a problem. Your finished shaft should fit perfectly. The OB dia. at the joint will be reduced slightly to match the Schon and in the process the decal will be lost. Before shooting finish on the shaft, the decal will be replaced.
 
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convert shaft

I agree with the guys above. Keep the butt intact and change the shaft for about $50. Save up for a new custom built cue of your liking. Then you have the best of both worlds and you will be happier with the outcome.
Tom Gedris, Triple Cross Cues:cool:
 
i did not mean with changing the rings. i mean taking a cue and changing the pin and joint. if the ob1 is oversized or just having the rings changed its perfect everytime. but on the schon shaft where it is already perfect and you arent doing any ringwork just joint work you can loose center.

its a 400$ cue new. there is no collectable value in it. if he wants to change the joint hes not destroying the cue. general rule for a production cue is you may get 50% of what you paid. anyone who buys the cue is not buying it to stick under the bed. its a players cue not a tascarella.
 
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dave sutton said:
i did not mean with changing the rings. i mean taking a cue and changing the pin and joint. if the ob1 is oversized or just having the rings changed its perfect everytime. but on the schon shaft where it is already perfect and you arent doing any ringwork just joint work you can loose center.

its a 400$ cue new. there is no collectable value in it. if he wants to change the joint hes not destroying the cue. general rule for a production cue is you may get 50% of what you paid. anyone who buys the cue is not buying it to stick under the bed. its a players cue not a tascarella.
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It has nothing to do with collectability. One thing you fail to realize, in all of your posts, is that every cue has value, whether it is custom, production, imported, or whatever. Not everyone can afford a Tad or a Tasc right away. He can, however, invest in this Schon, which is a good cue, that will retain most of its value. He can always get at least 75% of his money back IF he doesn't customize it.

**why stick any cue under the bed? Aren't they meant to be played with?
 
im not going to get into a pissing contest with you

i dont know how many used production cues youve sold here but @ 75% you must be the greatest salesman known to man. there is no way. and i have done my homework. i will not post others thread but do a quick search. 50% sry

to answer your question not all cues are made to be played with... this one however is.

http://www.cornerstonecustomcues.com/cues/lrgcues/009ac.html
http://www.cornerstonecustomcues.com/cues/lrgcues/018r.html
http://www.cornerstonecustomcues.com/cues/lrgcues/003ab.html
 
dave sutton said:
im not going to get into a pissing contest with you

i dont know how many used production cues youve sold here but @ 75% you must be the greatest salesman known to man. there is no way. and i have done my homework. i will not post others thread but do a quick search. 50% sry
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If you can find me a stl 1 in good shape for 200 I'll take it...
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. I just really need this cue to work out. So I'm making it mentally, physically work out.

Here's my desperation: I've just recently purchased this Schon, NEW, so the value lies in the cash I just dealt out to get it. Now, I have a custom wrappless SP from a local cuemaker with 3/8x10 shafts and the OB-1, but I just don't get excited when I play with it anymore. Can't explain why...it's probably the looks. I really dig the simple, merry widow (?) look.

Anyway, the Schon--the linen is impossible for me to hold on to. I ended up using some product on my hand to keep it steady, but every night? no way. That's whay I thought the stacked wrap, possibly finished, would help it feel more like a wrappless. Since my hands don't perspire, I figure I should change the cue. And leather/cork seems just as slippery.

Any further suggestions? I guess I'm not changing the butt then....
 
Impact Blue said:
Thanks for all the replies guys. I just really need this cue to work out. So I'm making it mentally, physically work out.

Here's my desperation: I've just recently purchased this Schon, NEW, so the value lies in the cash I just dealt out to get it. Now, I have a custom wrappless SP from a local cuemaker with 3/8x10 shafts and the OB-1, but I just don't get excited when I play with it anymore. Can't explain why...it's probably the looks. I really dig the simple, merry widow (?) look.

Anyway, the Schon--the linen is impossible for me to hold on to. I ended up using some product on my hand to keep it steady, but every night? no way. That's whay I thought the stacked wrap, possibly finished, would help it feel more like a wrappless. Since my hands don't perspire, I figure I should change the cue. And leather/cork seems just as slippery.

Any further suggestions? I guess I'm not changing the butt then....
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I have wrapless cues, in that price range. Click "Rat cues" in my sign to see. Send the OB shaft, along with the purchase of one of my cues, and I will match the shaft for free. I may even be interested in a trade....
 
ratcues said:
I have wrapless cues, in that price range. Click "Rat cues" in my sign to see. Send the OB shaft, along with the purchase of one of my cues, and I will match the shaft for free. I may even be interested in a trade....
Click to expand...

Thank you for your offer, but I think this will be a good mental exercise in acceptance and adjustment. My budget is pretty tight all the same, and whatever's left is put towards or on the table. Don't mistake me, the Schon has it's plusses: the balance is good (more forward) and the butt dimensions is perfect for my hand. Maybe I like SS joints...dunno.

But the OB-1 conversion and ringwork for my Schon sounds like a fair price. LOL, I have to send it off to have the ferrule fixed beforehand though.
 
Impact Blue said:
Thank you for your offer, but I think this will be a good mental exercise in acceptance and adjustment. My budget is pretty tight all the same, and whatever's left is put towards or on the table. Don't mistake me, the Schon has it's plusses: the balance is good (more forward) and the butt dimensions is perfect for my hand. Maybe I like SS joints...dunno.

But the OB-1 conversion and ringwork for my Schon sounds like a fair price. LOL, I have to send it off to have the ferrule fixed beforehand though.
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I can work on the ferrule as well.
 
cubswin said:
If you can find me a stl 1 in good shape for 200 I'll take it...
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chuckpilegis said:
me too.....
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ill do you one better.

do a quick search

there is a 1300$ schon for 650. still there no action

there is a 1200$ schon for 800$ still there no action

both well under the 75% range and STILL THERE

need i go on im sure i can find some more

let me know when you get the cues. tell me how they play

just because i didnt find your exact cue doesnt hide the facts.
 
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I am just looking for a stl-1 for 200. Got enough expensive schons.

Also have 3 OB-1s in 5/16 x14 I dont really use.
If you sell your 3/8x10 you can buy one of mine.
 
dave sutton said:
ill do you one better.

do a quick search

there is a 1300$ schon for 650. still there no action

there is a 1200$ schon for 800$ still there no action

both well under the 75% range and STILL THERE

need i go on im sure i can find some more

let me know when you get the cues. tell me how they play

just because i didnt find your exact cue doesnt hide the facts.
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think those prices are full retail. Actual selling prices for those is probably closer to 900 and 1000.

I'd still like the stl1 at 50 percent off.
 
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