What tip for a Cognoscenti?

minohc

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi,
I' ve just buy a Cognoscenti cue(of the 2004). I have to change the used tip.
For you, that have more experience than me, what is the best tip for this kind of cue? Hard/medium/soft? Moori/triangle/talisman/Le pro/etc...?
Personally, with other cues, I used moori medium, but i like know what think other Cog's owner(and not only).

Once installed, do you have some suggestion for its cure? Someone tell to wet with some saliva the edge and after rub with some like a piece of leather... what do you think about this?

mino
 
I just spoke to Joe Gold last week about the status of my new cue. He stated that he uses Lepro tips because out of a box of 50, about 45 are usable and the same.

Personally I like Sumo tips, and have them on almost all of my shafts, but I will be using what the Cog comes with for a while to determine what to keep on it
 
I have never heard of matching a style of tip with the type of cue. Thinking about it im sure a moori would feel different on each cue depending on the joint, but that would be the overall feel. Sorry no thoughts, not a owner of a cogg, BUT A SOON TO BE OWNER OF MY FIRST CUSTOM CUE FROM MIKE WEBB!!! WOOO!

Sorry. anyway, that is how i burnish my tips. I use saliva, and then usually take a match book cover (thincardboard), or a dollar bill and squeeze the tip between my fingers and the twist the shaft. You will definitely hear a squeeking noise as you do it. Don't worry about it means it's working. With a moori tip (quick) i noticed i don't have to do it as often. Depending on how bad it needs to be burnished i have a porper's tip trimmer that works really well. Nice part about the burnishing is that it brings out that real nice brown on a moori tip. Sometimes it is all about the look and shine.
 
Something tickels everyones fancy... some more than others... some not at all !!

It just happens that I have wanted a Cog for a long time, and it helps to have some friends!!!

Just another addition to a growing collection!!! Kinda like grandkids
 
minohc said:
Hi,
I' ve just buy a Cognoscenti cue(of the 2004). I have to change the used tip.
For you, that have more experience than me, what is the best tip for this kind of cue? Hard/medium/soft? Moori/triangle/talisman/Le pro/etc...?
Personally, with other cues, I used moori medium, but i like know what think other Cog's owner(and not only).

Once installed, do you have some suggestion for its cure? Someone tell to wet with some saliva the edge and after rub with some like a piece of leather... what do you think about this?

mino
I have a Cognoscenti 6 point logo cue and I use Talisman WB-M on that cue and I love it. Great control with a great cue. If the person doing the tip does a good job with a dime radius, you should not have to touch that tip for a while. If your cue was made in 04 it has a Triangle tip, I thought they were to soft so I went a little harder with a Moori and didn't like them either, then went to the Talisman WB-M and love these tips on my Cog.
 
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pharaoh68 said:
The best tip I ever got for a Cog was "Don't buy a Cog!!!"
Why don't you like Cognoscenti? Maybe just because it's CNC. In my opinon it's a fine cue, CNC or not! It plays great, IMO.
 
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Scott Lee said:
You have something quite rare. I've never known Joe Gold to make a 6 point cue. Most of his cues are 4 or 5 points. Mine is a 5 pointer.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
3 in the forearm and 3 in the butt = 6. This is the way it's sold, as the 6 point logo cue. To me it's realy a 3up + 3down, but again that = 6.
 
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if joey is still using the same material for the ferrule that he did when he started out,,,,,,they crack!! use a softer tip or one with a pad. and if you tend to hit hard,,,,,,play only 14.1 or 1 pocket
 
bruin70 said:
if joey is still using the same material for the ferrule that he did when he started out,,,,,,they crack!! use a softer tip or one with a pad. and if you tend to hit hard,,,,,,play only 14.1 or 1 pocket

Larry Schwartz has a Cog, and he sure hits plenty of shots HARD. And he's not using a soft tip, as far as I know. How long ago were those ferrules --that you're referring to -- made?

Flex
 
(2) Cogs

I have had the opportunity to play (regularly) with 2 Cogs.

I am using Moori Mediums, and Gary's Cog had Elkmasters (he played alot of 1-pocket- and thought he could get better spin with the softer tip at lower ball speeds). I have been able to shoot with both these cues for 10 years. (they both were Gary's)- as he would always offer to let me play with whatever one he wasn't using. He offered to trade me one of the Cogs when he wrecked his truck. So, I have had mine for 6-years now.
Gary was a player- there wasn't a shot he wouldn't take with the Cogs- Breaks, Jumps, everything... I play mine the same way... Cues are made for players... IMO a cue that never hit's a ball is useless. (apologies to the "collectors" out there)

The HIT is outstanding. It is very solid. It is never harsh- and the feedback is great. It's like an extension of your hand. There is minimal vibration transfer- and you get a nice healthy "ping" to the hit.

The G-10 pin (Glass-laminate Epoxy) is a very lightweight yet strong material. The main reason to use it is weight. The shear-strength of a 1" diameter rod of G-10 is 55,000 psi (about twice that of hardened Aluminum, and 10% more than 316 Stainless. Anyone that thinks the pin is weak because it's "plastic" doesn't know anything about the material. It also has very high flexural and compression strength- along with high impact resistance.

John at the Fury Cues Booth was experimenting with a G-10 TIP on a Fury break-cue, and shooting with it as a regular cue also. He was able to apply some serious english even with the very hard tip.

Ignore the nay-sayers and ENJOY your Cognoscenti. Put on a tip you are used to playing- and I'm sure you will be happy.

Ray
 
Ignore the nay-sayers and ENJOY your Cognoscenti. Put on a tip you are used to playing- and I'm sure you will be happy.

Thank you for your reply.
I think that I'm going to put the "classic" moori M...

Can I ask you some other question about Cogs cue?
I know that Joe makes his work for the USA market... before only for Japan.
For you, has he changed something in his(great) work? The quantity of cue is the same or it's incresead? And about the quality and the fell of cue?
 
daytonajoe said:
Personally I like Sumo tips, and have them on almost all of my shafts, but I will be using what the Cog comes with for a while to determine what to keep on it

Waht is the diference between sumo and moori tips, for you?

mino
 
gold tips

i am pretty sure that joey uses triangle tips and i never have ever had a crack ferrule or had to replace one, maybe a bad batch once who knows.my opinion is he is one of the top cue makers today and you wont ever go wrong buying a gold
 
All I can say is that if I had the money, I would be on the phone ordering a cue from Joe right now. In my opinion, they are a players cue, and I don't care if it has 250 inlays, or none.. Still an awesome hit. Good job buddy.
 
Another thing about the cogs... who sold me the cue told me that the shaft weight 100g. Is it true? If yes, for the the balance is very important don't use sandpaper for clean it. The seller suggest me to use only a cloth wet with a little alcohol. I tried but the shaft rests dark. What do you suggest?

mino
 
Magic Eraser- Cleans your shafts without damage

Mino-
Much has been written about this (shaft-cleaning) on the Usenet Group Rec.Sport.Billiard- often referred to here as "RSB". You can also search this forum for "Magic Eraser". This is a soft Melamine fiber pad used for household cleaning. Many here have found it works GREAT for cleaning the blue discoloration (chalk) from their shafts and ferrules. It is made in the US by the folks at Mr.Clean, and can be found in most grocery stores. If by chance you cannot aquire any where you live, I will offer my services to help you get some.

Here is a previous post on RSB about the Magic Erasers.

I have had the best results by:
1) Cut the pad into 2 equal pieces (along it's width)
Eraser1.jpg

2) Get one of the pads soaking wet- lukewarm water seems to work better- and drys quicker
3) Squeeze as much excess water out as possible by simply squeezing it in your fist.
4) Fold a paper towel over the damp ME and squeeze again- lightly between your 2 palms
5) Fold the eraser around the shaft. There's no need to really press it like sandpaper.. light
pressure will suffice (especially for maintainance- after the first thorough cleaning). Use long
strokes- over the length of the shaft- in both directions. Do NOT rotate the shaft while the eraser
is in contact with it, this tends to tear the eraser much easier. You can go over one section several times
before turning the cue. It may take several turns, and Eraser adjustments, to get it clean.
Eraser2.jpg


6) Pinch a portion of the eraser around the ferrule- and "spin" the shaft with your palm- while
trapping the shaft against your pantleg... It (seems to) work best if you only go one direction.
7) Tightly wrap a (folded) paper towel around the shaft- and briskly work it up and down- while
rotating the shaft- This will generate a bit of heat- and quickly dry the shaft.
8) Burnish the shaft with leather
9) I like to use a bit of automotive carnuba wax on the ferrule. (Mother's California Gold Paste).
It seems to keep the ferrule cleaner.. I chalk every shot-(habit)... so I know it helps.

Here's the difference they make:
Eraser3.jpg


For the first cleaning of fairly "dirty" shafts- you will use 1 pad per shaft. After that, Maintainance cleanings - one (1/2) pad will last 2-3 cleanings- I use them "dry"- and re-burnish the shaft with leather, brown paper (bag) or a Dollar Bill.

I have been using the Magic Erasers since they were first posted on RSB. I clean my shafts about every
6-8 "sessions" on the table.. about 12-20 hours of play time. Maintainance cleanings only take about a
minute.



Ray
 
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