Does anyone know which tip is harder between the two? How about between a Moori Med and a Pro Talisman Med.?
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What Tip Is Harder- Moori soft or Talisman Pro Soft?
- Thread starter vinniebabarooch
- Start date
vinniebabarooch said:
I don't know about the soft ones, but I've played with both Moori med. and Talisman pro med., and in my experience the Talisman is a firmer tip overall, but the outer surface of the Moori tends to "glaze" and become ultra-hard, making it not hold chalk very well, and making it difficult to re-shape. I had to spend some serious time attacking my tip with a shaper to get rid of the flat spots that would develop and make the surface hold chalk again. With the Talisman, I just use a dime shaper very lightly once every couple weeks and it re-shapes any minor flat spots and gives me a good surface for chalk, and it holds its shape well enough that I never take off much material. It's a really good tip, in my opinion.
-Andrew
vinniebabarooch said:
Although I've used both, or rather, all of them, the only way I could really tell you how different they are hardness-wise is to get one of each and put them on two shafts and play with them a bit. They're quite similar, with the noted difference that the Talismans do not glaze over, and once shaped, really only need to be chalked.
Flex
Comparing the Moori to Talisman...the Moori will generally be a bit softer. I use to play with the Talisman S and remembered it being softer...but a few days ago I installed a brand new one on a cue and hit with it...TINK, TINK, TINK...I actually went back and checked to make sure it was an S and not a H. I know they have had past issues with tips being labeled wrong. I also use to play with the Moori S but after a while it was indeed no longer an S, more like H. (Excuse me I mean Q.)
Long story short...I now play with a Sniper by Tiger and I'll never go back. Both the Moori & Talisman S's feel way hard now compared to the Sniper. And when installed correctly, the Sniper performs better and will not mushroom. Simply put...the Sniper will do things with the cueball that other tips will not.
Long story short...I now play with a Sniper by Tiger and I'll never go back. Both the Moori & Talisman S's feel way hard now compared to the Sniper. And when installed correctly, the Sniper performs better and will not mushroom. Simply put...the Sniper will do things with the cueball that other tips will not.
whitewolf said:(1) Most of the people I know don't ever re-shape their Moori or Talisman tips simply because they never have to.
(2) Flat spots - I have never heard of this - ever. Maybe you should be using a quarter shaped tip vs. a dime shaped one? Could you be using centerball every shot and thus flattening the tip of the tip?
(3) "Serious time attacking my tip" - Man, I would have to think twice before I loaned you my cue
Not that I am doubting you, but something doesn't sound right here, like maybe you got hold of some bootleg tips.
Regards, WW
I have no way of verifying that the moori was legit, so it was possibly a bootleg. And what I mean by "flat spot" is that one side of the tip, off-center (picture the part of the tip that contacts the ball when using a moderate amount of english) ended up getting pounded a bit flat, as the tip hardened with use I guess it did so unevenly. The tip was still domed, but one side of the dome was more of an even slope than a rounded curve.
And I would never spend "serious time attacking" a borrowed cue
Anyway, the point of my post is that the Talisman has been working great for me.
-Andrew
Top hardness
The talisman is harder, and in my opinion a much better tip, it actually borders on being a medium. I have have never seen a Talisman mushroom if installed correctly. The soft Moori will be to soft for most players and draw suffers. It feels like you are hitting the ball with a wet sponge if the tip is too soft. A harder tip transfers energy more efficiently.
The talisman is harder, and in my opinion a much better tip, it actually borders on being a medium. I have have never seen a Talisman mushroom if installed correctly. The soft Moori will be to soft for most players and draw suffers. It feels like you are hitting the ball with a wet sponge if the tip is too soft. A harder tip transfers energy more efficiently.
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I suppose it's quite possible that my way of preparing tips for playing may alter the normal playing characteristics of the tip. After I've installed and shaped the tip to a dime radius, I'll chalk the tip up really well and then take a ball and start pounding the tip all over it, reshaping it as it were, until the tip has a uniform shape and usually ends up in between a nickel and dime radius, which is where the tip would end up with normal play after an hour or so. It approximates shooting the cue ball quite firmly, if not hard, a hundred or so times, with all different sorts of english. It definitely hardens the tip. After that, I'll rechalk it, and shoot away. It plays perfectly, from the first shot. However, that "soft" tip isn't really soft anymore, but the tip shape usually stays pretty stable. I much prefer this situation to the one where I have to worry about getting "too much" english on the ball for a particular stroke, aim, etc. etc.
At the moment, I'm using a LePro tip on a custom shaft, as that's what the maker suggested, and it's playing just fine. If I want more english, I can switch to a Predator shaft with a medium Moori on it, but the custom is plenty lively for me.
I wonder if a durometer would register the pounded tips as harder than they otherwise would be right after shaping? My guess is "yes."
Flex
At the moment, I'm using a LePro tip on a custom shaft, as that's what the maker suggested, and it's playing just fine. If I want more english, I can switch to a Predator shaft with a medium Moori on it, but the custom is plenty lively for me.
I wonder if a durometer would register the pounded tips as harder than they otherwise would be right after shaping? My guess is "yes."
Flex
Funny post there Flex...and I thought Allison was the only one I had ever seen take a ball and start pounding a Moori. I don't do it but I have the luxury of playing a while and then putting it back on the lathe.
cuemaker03...I'd have to argue...the Moori S in no way feels like a wet sponge and absolutely does not make your draw suffer. In fact...the truth is the softer tips draw easier than hard ones...this has been well known for many years. The hard tip does not stay in contact with the cueball as long as the soft tip. The soft tip grips the cueball a bit longer applying more of the desired spin. If what you say is true...then phen. tips would draw like magic & Elkmasters would not draw at all.
There is a reason that the softer hitting Sniper tip is probably the best playing tip ever created.
cuemaker03...I'd have to argue...the Moori S in no way feels like a wet sponge and absolutely does not make your draw suffer. In fact...the truth is the softer tips draw easier than hard ones...this has been well known for many years. The hard tip does not stay in contact with the cueball as long as the soft tip. The soft tip grips the cueball a bit longer applying more of the desired spin. If what you say is true...then phen. tips would draw like magic & Elkmasters would not draw at all.
There is a reason that the softer hitting Sniper tip is probably the best playing tip ever created.
Anyone else?
Thanks guys
Thanks guys