What to use to SEAL BARE WOOD

CocoboloCowboy

CocoboloCowboy

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A friend has a Cue that he recently took back to the builder, as the cue had developed a slight wobble. The maker apparently put both the Shaft, and than the Butt Section into his lathe, and Refaced the Wood to Wood Joint.

Cue is straight NOW, but the Wood is Bare as the builder post repair did not put any sealer on the Cue Joint Wood.

I think friend is in for more trouble, as we are in MONSOON, and I see the potential for the wood to Swell as the AZ HUMIDITY is high daily like a SAUNA.

What is good to seal the BARE WOOD, and keep moisture out?

BTW before anyone ASKS this builder in NOT AN AZB Member!
 
Unless I'm missing the obviousness of the queston . . . what did the builder say about it ? Or just ask him to seal the joint ?
 
Builder said nothing. Make sence to me to seal thae bare wood with something. But maybe it will be fine with out?
 
I would just ask him. Is it possible he put sealer on it before he faced it so it wouldn't change after ? Sometimes it's hard to tell if it's sealed or not on the end grain.
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I seal mine with sanding sealer...JER
Click to expand...



If We are talking about the faces, then Me too. I sometimes use Ca also, but usually like to face off after using It.

Greg
 
CocoboloCowboy said:
A friend has a Cue that he recently took back to the builder, as the cue had developed a slight wobble. The maker apparently put both the Shaft, and than the Butt Section into his lathe, and Refaced the Wood to Wood Joint.

Cue is straight NOW, but the Wood is Bare as the builder post repair did not put any sealer on the Cue Joint Wood.

I think friend is in for more trouble, as we are in MONSOON, and I see the potential for the wood to Swell as the AZ HUMIDITY is high daily like a SAUNA.

What is good to seal the BARE WOOD, and keep moisture out?

BTW before anyone ASKS this builder in NOT AN AZB Member!
Click to expand...



I use MINWAX sanding sealer on ALL my woods at various stages as well as prior to spaying the finish....

As far as the shaft goes after the sand-up process... I use bowling alley wax, it's very thin and penetrates the wood fanatastically with superb results then I just burn in little cuesilk on top of that with a paper towel.....

when I'm done... the shaft feels slicker than snot on a brass doorknob !



- Eddie Wheat
 
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WheatCues said:
I use MINWAX sanding sealer on ALL my woods at various stages as well as prior to spaying the finish....

As far as the shaft goes after the sand-up process... I use bowling alley wax, it's very thin and penetrates the wood fanatastically with superb results then I just burn in little cuesilk on top of that with a paper towel.....

when I'm done... the shaft feels slicker than snot on a brass doorknob !



- Eddie Wheat
Click to expand...

Eddie , I think he is talking about the FLAT FACED surfaces of the JOINT...JER
 
I use thin super glue on the wood letting it penetrate and set just before final facing in the lathe.

Eddie, what do you use to get the MinWax sanding sealer to dry?
I tried it a few years back and aside from it being slightly yellow it never completely dried but left a tacky feeling surface even days after application.

The sanding sealer I use is Endro Sanding Sealer that was sold by Compliant Spray Systems.
Stuff dries like lightning ... clear and very hard.
Works well under auto clear coat also.
I think you can buy both the sealer and the gloss finish in stores now.

But back to the original question ... buy some fast drying clear finish like DEFT clear lacquer and wet the joint faces letting it soak into the wood then wipe off the excess from the surface.
Keep wiping it as it dries ... you want it to soak into the wood and seal it not build up and coat the joint face surfaces.
 
WilleeCue said:
I use thin super glue on the wood letting it penetrate and set just before final facing in the lathe.

Eddie, what do you use to get the MinWax sanding sealer to dry?
I tried it a few years back and aside from it being slightly yellow it never completely dried but left a tacky feeling surface even days after application.

The sanding sealer I use is Endro Sanding Sealer that was sold by Compliant Spray Systems.
Stuff dries like lightning ... clear and very hard.
Works well under auto clear coat also.
I think you can buy both the sealer and the gloss finish in stores now.

But back to the original question ... buy some fast drying clear finish like DEFT clear lacquer and wet the joint faces letting it soak into the wood then wipe off the excess from the surface.
Keep wiping it as it dries ... you want it to soak into the wood and seal it not build up and coat the joint face surfaces.
Click to expand...

I use MINWAX sanding sealer over EVERY exposed part of the wood, including the faces.... but the trick I have found is that you have to apply damp coats not soaking wet and there is a happy medium so that the paper towel doesnt grab and the sealer gets evenly distributed you just havce to experiment with it... as long as each coat dries it won't stay tacky for long....

Then I go over it several times until I get the desired results...

Let's face it... the more the wood is sealed the better off you are in the long run !




- Eddie Wheat
 
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