I like Blackballed and Andrew's shot except that I would want to hit it a little firmer and use the extra rail as shown. I don't want to take any chances on getting too close to the side rail, and I used to have problems with that until I heard Buddy Hall say (in commentary on Accu-stats) that often the best way to avoid being on a rail is to bounce off of it. Furthermore, going this way allows me to stroke the ball with a little more accuracy. The key is not to undercut that seven ball!
If I get to position A I would prefer to draw or stun draw the cue to the bottom rail. I think the percentages are simply much higher that way. The curved cue ball path from the eight ball to the bottom rail, as well as the visible tangent lines, are there to ensure that everyone is aware that you can't just stun the shot over. There must be some draw.
you get that angle on the 8 (which is the correct place to be from the 7) and there are a few things you can do. I wouldn't be surprised if you played it differently one day to the next. That's why it's the right place to be. You're naturally going to go toward the 9 ball.
you get that angle on the 8 (which is the correct place to be from the 7) and there are a few things you can do. I wouldn't be surprised if you played it differently one day to the next. That's why it's the right place to be. You're naturally going to go toward the 9 ball.
OK, Jude. I confess, I confess!! My first reaction to the original post was just to draw the path from the seven and leave it at that, figuring that how the player goes to the 9-ball is a matter of preference.
Although the diagrammed shot is my preference, the shot does lend itself to number of approaches. For example, depending on the exact angle and how I feel at that moment, I might choose to draw it back to the other side of the nine or even go forward to the side rail and back (keeps a better angle than just going foward to the rail, IMHO). When we're at the table, the bottom line has to be how we feel, but from a purely analytical standpoint, and from the exact position of the cue ball in the diagram, the stun/draw, with a medium to firm stroke seems absolutely dog-proof.
I can't imagine how a good player could go wrong doing that shot--there's no scratch, you get to hit the ball with a good medium stroke, you're on the vertical axis and a half-tip or less from the center of the cueball, and because of the angle, the speed practically takes care of itself .
7 in top right corner using top-left....8 in that same corner, leave on the 9 should be natural.....or, 7 in the top right using top-right....8 in the top side pocket and play draw for shape on the 9.....prefer the first example...
I like Blackballed and Andrew's shot except that I would want to hit it a little firmer and use the extra rail as shown. I don't want to take any chances on getting too close to the side rail, and I used to have problems with that until I heard Buddy Hall say (in commentary on Accu-stats) that often the best way to avoid being on a rail is to bounce off of it. Furthermore, going this way allows me to stroke the ball with a little more accuracy. The key is not to undercut that seven ball!
If I get to position A I would prefer to draw or stun draw the cue to the bottom rail. I think the percentages are simply much higher that way. The curved cue ball path from the eight ball to the bottom rail, as well as the visible tangent lines, are there to ensure that everyone is aware that you can't just stun the shot over. There must be some draw.
I like your thinking, but the tangent lines in your drawing must be off somehow - with the 8 ball above the spot the tangent line should hit on the long rail above the corner pocket, not in the pocket.
Also, I think shooting the 8 with natural roll rather than draw, bouncing off the long rail for shape on the 9, would be an easier shot to execute (and would avoid the corner pocket even if the tangent lines were correct).
I also like natural roll for the shot on the 7 (as most have said), letting the cue ball naturally come across the table for the shot into the upper side pocket as you've drawn it. Trying to hold the cue ball up too much is a common rookie mistake for many shots.
I like your thinking, but the tangent lines in your drawing must be off somehow - with the 8 ball above the spot the tangent line should hit on the long rail above the corner pocket, not in the pocket.
Also, I think shooting the 8 with natural roll rather than draw, bouncing off the long rail for shape on the 9, would be an easier shot to execute (and would avoid the corner pocket even if the tangent lines were correct).
I also like natural roll for the shot on the 7 (as most have said), letting the cue ball naturally come across the table for the shot into the upper side pocket as you've drawn it. Trying to hold the cue ball up too much is a common rookie mistake for many shots.
I like your thinking, but the tangent lines in your drawing must be off somehow - with the 8 ball above the spot the tangent line should hit on the long rail above the corner pocket, not in the pocket.
Also, I think shooting the 8 with natural roll rather than draw, bouncing off the long rail for shape on the 9, would be an easier shot to execute (and would avoid the corner pocket even if the tangent lines were correct).
I also like natural roll for the shot on the 7 (as most have said), letting the cue ball naturally come across the table for the shot into the upper side pocket as you've drawn it. Trying to hold the cue ball up too much is a common rookie mistake for many shots.
This is precisely why I favor stun/draw straight down to the end rail. Hitting with "some low to widen the angle off the eight" becomes a touch shot where if you hit it a little funny things can go wrong. On the other hand, coming straight down to the end rail just about completely takes ol' Mr. Murphy out of the equation.
