whats the proper way to use the caliper thingys? lol

scottycoyote

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
i bought a pair but it didnt come with instructions. Its got the digital readout, and its like 2headed so i guess you can measure in and outside. Anyone know what the "aso" button means? Also the 2 calipers themselves come down into kind of a beveled edge, im guessing this is what im supposed to be putting around what i want to measure to get really accurate, the beveled part. Also do you apply pressure when you measure something or just kind of snug it and thats it?
thanks
 
The main thing is to be consistent with how much pressure you apply... if you have something that you know the exact measurement of, try measuring it and see what the difference is with different pressure. You should be able to measure anywhere along the jaws of the thing, it's 'beveled' to allow you to measure in tight spots.
 
> What I was taught to do with ALL measuring instruments was practice achieving consistent measuring pressure,and using several different gages of different types that are known to be right. Like taking a piece of .1875 drill rod,and keep trying it until you can get the mike or calipers to read the same as the gage,then turning it 90 degrees and repeating. This can be done with pin gages,gage blocks,cylinders,bearing races,and even drill bit shanks and drill rod. Has anyone taught you how to properly read and accurately set vernier calipers,mikes,and height gages yet? Reading these correctly and acquiring skills with them will do you a lot better than just buying digital stuff,trust me,I found out first hand. Brown and Sharpe has an excellent book on basic metrology that is just a few bucks. The cost of digital measuring devices is 2-3 times higher than vernier stuff of the same quality,for example a 0-1" Starrett that reads out to .0001 is about 80-90 bucks,their most basic digital mike with the same range is 250. There are also other drawbacks to digital,such as batteries dying when least expected,they are also prone to dying completely on you if dropped or slapped around. My biggest complaint about digital mikes in particular is bulk,when cutting screw threads and using the 3-wire method to check your depth,my Mitotoyo often finds a way to slip out of my grasp,due to my small hands,so I use a much sleeker Starrett vernier mike for this. Tommy D.
 
Tommy-D said:
> What I was taught to do with ALL measuring instruments was practice achieving consistent measuring pressure,and using several different gages of different types that are known to be right. Like taking a piece of .1875 drill rod,and keep trying it until you can get the mike or calipers to read the same as the gage,then turning it 90 degrees and repeating. This can be done with pin gages,gage blocks,cylinders,bearing races,and even drill bit shanks and drill rod. Has anyone taught you how to properly read and accurately set vernier calipers,mikes,and height gages yet? Reading these correctly and acquiring skills with them will do you a lot better than just buying digital stuff,trust me,I found out first hand. Brown and Sharpe has an excellent book on basic metrology that is just a few bucks. The cost of digital measuring devices is 2-3 times higher than vernier stuff of the same quality,for example a 0-1" Starrett that reads out to .0001 is about 80-90 bucks,their most basic digital mike with the same range is 250. There are also other drawbacks to digital,such as batteries dying when least expected,they are also prone to dying completely on you if dropped or slapped around. My biggest complaint about digital mikes in particular is bulk,when cutting screw threads and using the 3-wire method to check your depth,my Mitotoyo often finds a way to slip out of my grasp,due to my small hands,so I use a much sleeker Starrett vernier mike for this. Tommy D.
Oh great, you made his head explode.
 
Verniers

scottycoyote said:
i bought a pair but it didnt come with instructions. Its got the digital readout, and its like 2headed so i guess you can measure in and outside. Anyone know what the "aso" button means? Also the 2 calipers themselves come down into kind of a beveled edge, im guessing this is what im supposed to be putting around what i want to measure to get really accurate, the beveled part. Also do you apply pressure when you measure something or just kind of snug it and thats it?
thanks

Vernier Basics

1- long jaws with bevel are for outside measuement ( not the best for diameters, micrmeters better )
2- Short beaks with bevel are for inside measuement ( verniers always read undersize on inside diameters, small hole gages and telescoping gages are better )
3- Rod from base is for depth measurement ( Base attachment available for more accurate readings )
4- All digital verniers have at least 3 buttons On/Off, Inch/Metric, and Set Zero ( some have more buttons and functions for computer pick up )

aso might stand for absolute set zero. Push button and see if it goes to zero.

If you have $200 to spend and want to buy a vernier accurate to .0001 get the top of the line Starrett. The Starrett model come with so many computer functions you could be confused forever.

Trueheart
 
Verniers

Tommy-D said:
> What I was taught to do with ALL measuring instruments was practice achieving consistent measuring pressure,and using several different gages of different types that are known to be right. Like taking a piece of .1875 drill rod,and keep trying it until you can get the mike or calipers to read the same as the gage,then turning it 90 degrees and repeating. This can be done with pin gages,gage blocks,cylinders,bearing races,and even drill bit shanks and drill rod. Has anyone taught you how to properly read and accurately set vernier calipers,mikes,and height gages yet? Reading these correctly and acquiring skills with them will do you a lot better than just buying digital stuff,trust me,I found out first hand. Brown and Sharpe has an excellent book on basic metrology that is just a few bucks. The cost of digital measuring devices is 2-3 times higher than vernier stuff of the same quality,for example a 0-1" Starrett that reads out to .0001 is about 80-90 bucks,their most basic digital mike with the same range is 250. There are also other drawbacks to digital,such as batteries dying when least expected,they are also prone to dying completely on you if dropped or slapped around. My biggest complaint about digital mikes in particular is bulk,when cutting screw threads and using the 3-wire method to check your depth,my Mitotoyo often finds a way to slip out of my grasp,due to my small hands,so I use a much sleeker Starrett vernier mike for this. Tommy D.


Tommy D.

Hold thread wires with elastic bands.

Trueheart
 
Trueheart said:
Vernier Basics

1- long jaws with bevel are for outside measuement ( not the best for diameters, micrmeters better )
2- Short beaks with bevel are for inside measuement ( verniers always read undersize on inside diameters, small hole gages and telescoping gages are better )
3- Rod from base is for depth measurement ( Base attachment available for more accurate readings )
4- All digital verniers have at least 3 buttons On/Off, Inch/Metric, and Set Zero ( some have more buttons and functions for computer pick up )

aso might stand for absolute set zero. Push button and see if it goes to zero.

If you have $200 to spend and want to buy a vernier accurate to .0001 get the top of the line Starrett. The Starrett model come with so many computer functions you could be confused forever.

Trueheart

There is one more measuring function that most people don't know about but is extremely useful: Step measuring. If you close the calipers you will notice that the jaw end is precision ground. I use this method all the time to measure the length of the ferrule tennon up to the shoulder. Go HERE for a picture of what I'm talking about (page 3).
 
Verniers

iusedtoberich said:
There is one more measuring function that most people don't know about but is extremely useful: Step measuring. If you close the calipers you will notice that the jaw end is precision ground. I use this method all the time to measure the length of the ferrule tennon up to the shoulder. Go HERE for a picture of what I'm talking about (page 3).

Nice reference site. Have always used depth measuring rod instead of step. Will try step way for ferrule to see if it is more comfortable. Mititoyo and Starrett are also good sources for vernier and micrometer use.

Trueheart
 
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