Where do I buy a small motor for a 1 cue spray booth?

mreightball said:
Does anyone have any pictures of these items to show how they work?

Duct tape a stub from an old shaft onto the motor and then see if you can imagine a better way.
:scratchhead:

Ok, you don't need to actually do this. Just think about it.
 
Motor

mreightball said:
How do you use the motor to spin the shaft?
I just built a frame out of scrap 2x8s. I mounted the rotisserie motor to it and put a shaft with home made gear/pulley on it. Below the motor I mounted a flange bearing with a shaft and additional pulley. Connected them with a scrap rubber belt. This lets me do 1 butt and 1 shaft at the same time. It looks like crap but spins the cue and prevents any runs.
 
Cuetips said:
I've gotten about 4 years now out of my rotisserie motor, and have no complaints on the final product. How would it help the finish by bumping up the RPM to between 60 and 120???


Just trying to be better

Walter

Apparently you aren't having any problems with your set up the way it is. I, myself, have trouble spraying if the item is not revolving fast enough. You want a nice, smooth, wet coat of finish. When revolving to slowly it usually is very hard to get this coating as you either barber pole the finish onto the cue or else so much is put on that it is dripping all over the place and the finish ripples. If the cue is revolving to quickly then, of coarse, centrifugal force will sling and ripple the finish. I turn mine around 100 rpm with Automotive Urethane and around 50 or 60 when applying U.V. as I want a much heavier coat with that material and I let it revolve for some time before putting it under the light so that the U.V. flows out to an even coat.

Dick
 
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When using a rotating spray booth set up, I was under the impression that you sprayed the cues while rotating manually, then use the motor to even out the coats.

How many cuemakers are actually spraying while the cue is rotating with a motor?
How many spray, turn a 1/4 by hand, spray, turn 1/4 by hand, etc. Then turn on the motor to rotate the cue and even out the finish?

Thanks,
Zim
 
Sorry, I've been away delivering work.

On the subject of rotating speed, Dick summed it up correctly. I would have said 'uniform coverage' but the intent is the same. I can't imagine turning the shaft by hand, a 1/4 turn at a time and getting uniform coverage. To me, using my set-up, shooting finish is a breeze. It just couldn't be easier.

Rotating too fast, centrifugal force will compromise your work.
Rotating too slow, mean old mister gravity can hurt you. That and your coverage won't be even.

My finish lathe is powered by a 2hp DC variable speed mtr. Way overkill but I like the variable speed. As stated, I only run 60 to 120 RPM.

Bottom line, to each his own. I know what works for me and everyone else is certainly free to use what works for them.
 
Slow

I haven't had any problems with the slow motor as far as coverage or anything. It sounds like it is even easier going 100rpms. I'm sure willing to give it a try. The one thing I do like about it going slow is that I can see when there is a pore, pinhole or a spot not getting filled and I can fix it at that time. Unfortunately that situation comes up a lot for me.
 
Ok, here're some pics of the rotary system that I use while baking the finish. It's basically the same principle for the spraying stand. I did some "surplus hunting" back when I was so into building my own CNC and at the start I went for what's obvious which is computer printers. The parts you'll see, belt, pulleys, switch & wires came from printer parts that I don't use in my cnc project. The wiper motor came from an auto recycler yard. The spindles I made from ebony and brass that I turned. Enjoy.
driveside.jpg

drivespindleside.jpg

tail.jpg
 
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The wiper motor is attached to the upright with an angle bar. At the bottom of the 1st and 2nd pic you'll notice the DPDT toggle switch that controls the speed (fast or slow). But, aside from that speed control the speed can also be controlled by the variable voltage power supply. So aside from the 2 speeds, built into the motor, having 3 more steps (6,9 & 12 volts) with the PS will give you a total of 6 speeds to choose from.

All the brass spindles are on ball bearings (NSK 608Z).
 
bandido said:
The wiper motor is attached to the upright with an angle bar. At the bottom of the 1st and 2nd pic you'll notice the DPDT toggle switch that controls the speed (fast or slow). But, aside from that speed control the speed can also be controlled by the variable voltage power supply. So aside from the 2 speeds, built into the motor, having 3 more steps (6,9 & 12 volts) with the PS will give you a total of 6 speeds to choose from.

All the brass spindles are on ball bearings (NSK 608Z).

That is really neat. I love to see how you guys use your brains to come up with some of the things you do. It is really impressive what you have done out of simple materials. I give you a lot of credit. Wish I had the capabilities to think of different things to make out of materials that are setting around. Keep it coming if anyone has pictures of their home made machinery we all love to see it.
 
We all have our own home-made machineries which are adapted to how we work. They are a part of what makes each and every one of us unique. They, the machinery we make and construction systems that we evolve into using, contribute to our signature look. With me, it is what makes the cues that come out of my shop an ER Cue.
 
spray booth motors

mreightball said:
Thanks Dick I was just thinking of something that would attach to the shaft that you could directly sping the item you are going to spray.
Your idea of a pully is to spin another item. I didn't know they made pullys with that small of a diameter to fit some of those small size shafts on motors.


I have tried a variety of motors for my spray booth over the years.
I agree that certain speeds will work better for certain finishes.
Such as right now I am spraying the thickest uv finish yet I have been able to get. Problem here in New Mexico is my spray booth gets too damn hot during the summer days that when the spray thins out it wants to sag or drip when spun to fast or to slow. So what I am saying is to get variable speed. On the other hand during the cold months I have to keep everything warm just to get it to come out of the gun. This in return causes a problem with the wood wanting to breathe. So getting a good sealing coat is a must.
I think an industrial motor and speed controller is best but is out of some peoples financial reach.
Here is a solution I have found that is getting me by for now until I have time to totally revamp my booth.
Check this motor out if you can get away with slower rotation.

http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=405

I have been running these motors for quite a while and have only had 1 fail so far.
I use a power supply from a train set rated at 18 volts and about 1 amp. Benefits of these power supplies is variable speed and reversing switch all in one. I am using 1 power supply per 5 motors.

I think the motors are rated at 12 volts but they will hold up at 18.
If you cut off the square tab and can mount it accuratly in a drill press or mill then you can drill out the plastic drive to 17/64 ot even 5/16 and tap to the desired thread. You then can screw the cue directly on.
One problem that is minor is they have a mechanism that prevents the motor from turning the correct direction. This is an easy fix. All you have to do is hold the tab in place and ca glue a screw, wooden dowel or such. I have even just used a pop rivet to hold it in place.

I hope all this makes sense.
Mike Gatzke
 
Mike ... Any photos?

I like what you have here.. Do you have any photos? Thanks a Million!! Todd

GatzkeCues said:
I have tried a variety of motors for my spray booth over the years.
I agree that certain speeds will work better for certain finishes.
Such as right now I am spraying the thickest uv finish yet I have been able to get. Problem here in New Mexico is my spray booth gets too damn hot during the summer days that when the spray thins out it wants to sag or drip when spun to fast or to slow. So what I am saying is to get variable speed. On the other hand during the cold months I have to keep everything warm just to get it to come out of the gun. This in return causes a problem with the wood wanting to breathe. So getting a good sealing coat is a must.
I think an industrial motor and speed controller is best but is out of some peoples financial reach.
Here is a solution I have found that is getting me by for now until I have time to totally revamp my booth.
Check this motor out if you can get away with slower rotation.

http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=405

I have been running these motors for quite a while and have only had 1 fail so far.
I use a power supply from a train set rated at 18 volts and about 1 amp. Benefits of these power supplies is variable speed and reversing switch all in one. I am using 1 power supply per 5 motors.

I think the motors are rated at 12 volts but they will hold up at 18.
If you cut off the square tab and can mount it accuratly in a drill press or mill then you can drill out the plastic drive to 17/64 ot even 5/16 and tap to the desired thread. You then can screw the cue directly on.
One problem that is minor is they have a mechanism that prevents the motor from turning the correct direction. This is an easy fix. All you have to do is hold the tab in place and ca glue a screw, wooden dowel or such. I have even just used a pop rivet to hold it in place.

I hope all this makes sense.
Mike Gatzke
 
I do not have any pictures of my messy contraption right now. I have a tourney tonight but will try and snap a couple off as soon as I get back over to the shop. I can not promise but will try before the 4 day weekend.

Best regards, Mike
 
GatzkeCues said:
I have tried a variety of motors for my spray booth over the years.
I agree that certain speeds will work better for certain finishes.
Such as right now I am spraying the thickest uv finish yet I have been able to get. Problem here in New Mexico is my spray booth gets too damn hot during the summer days that when the spray thins out it wants to sag or drip when spun to fast or to slow. So what I am saying is to get variable speed. On the other hand during the cold months I have to keep everything warm just to get it to come out of the gun. This in return causes a problem with the wood wanting to breathe. So getting a good sealing coat is a must.
I think an industrial motor and speed controller is best but is out of some peoples financial reach.
Here is a solution I have found that is getting me by for now until I have time to totally revamp my booth.
Check this motor out if you can get away with slower rotation.

http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=405

I have been running these motors for quite a while and have only had 1 fail so far.
I use a power supply from a train set rated at 18 volts and about 1 amp. Benefits of these power supplies is variable speed and reversing switch all in one. I am using 1 power supply per 5 motors.

I think the motors are rated at 12 volts but they will hold up at 18.
If you cut off the square tab and can mount it accuratly in a drill press or mill then you can drill out the plastic drive to 17/64 ot even 5/16 and tap to the desired thread. You then can screw the cue directly on.
One problem that is minor is they have a mechanism that prevents the motor from turning the correct direction. This is an easy fix. All you have to do is hold the tab in place and ca glue a screw, wooden dowel or such. I have even just used a pop rivet to hold it in place.

I hope all this makes sense.
Mike Gatzke


I've dealt with That place before. It's somewhere here in florida, Orlando if I'm not mistaken.

They carry several DC motors here's their DC motor pages-

http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=243

I first liked the many rpm ranges on the power window motors, and was able to control one with a variable speed board kit I bought, and some parts from radioshack. Works very well, with plenty of torque, and a wide range of speeds, but not a continous motor I suppose, and It does get really warm after running for an hour or so, although the board and controller I used stay nice and cool, so I'm thankfull for that. It's got so much torque that It may would be better suited for a powerfeed of some sort, so I may end Up using It on a taper machine or something like that instead, and use another motor for My paint boot spinner.

Greg
 
What about an old record player motor? Any idea what the rpm's are?

Just a thought!
Zim
 
You knew this was coming!!!

You knew this was coming!!! 45, 33 1/3, and 78 :wink:
 
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