Does anyone have any pictures of these items to show how they work?
mreightball said:Does anyone have any pictures of these items to show how they work?
I just built a frame out of scrap 2x8s. I mounted the rotisserie motor to it and put a shaft with home made gear/pulley on it. Below the motor I mounted a flange bearing with a shaft and additional pulley. Connected them with a scrap rubber belt. This lets me do 1 butt and 1 shaft at the same time. It looks like crap but spins the cue and prevents any runs.mreightball said:How do you use the motor to spin the shaft?
Cuetips said:I've gotten about 4 years now out of my rotisserie motor, and have no complaints on the final product. How would it help the finish by bumping up the RPM to between 60 and 120???
Just trying to be better
Walter
bandido said:The wiper motor is attached to the upright with an angle bar. At the bottom of the 1st and 2nd pic you'll notice the DPDT toggle switch that controls the speed (fast or slow). But, aside from that speed control the speed can also be controlled by the variable voltage power supply. So aside from the 2 speeds, built into the motor, having 3 more steps (6,9 & 12 volts) with the PS will give you a total of 6 speeds to choose from.
All the brass spindles are on ball bearings (NSK 608Z).
mreightball said:Thanks Dick I was just thinking of something that would attach to the shaft that you could directly sping the item you are going to spray.
Your idea of a pully is to spin another item. I didn't know they made pullys with that small of a diameter to fit some of those small size shafts on motors.
GatzkeCues said:I have tried a variety of motors for my spray booth over the years.
I agree that certain speeds will work better for certain finishes.
Such as right now I am spraying the thickest uv finish yet I have been able to get. Problem here in New Mexico is my spray booth gets too damn hot during the summer days that when the spray thins out it wants to sag or drip when spun to fast or to slow. So what I am saying is to get variable speed. On the other hand during the cold months I have to keep everything warm just to get it to come out of the gun. This in return causes a problem with the wood wanting to breathe. So getting a good sealing coat is a must.
I think an industrial motor and speed controller is best but is out of some peoples financial reach.
Here is a solution I have found that is getting me by for now until I have time to totally revamp my booth.
Check this motor out if you can get away with slower rotation.
http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=405
I have been running these motors for quite a while and have only had 1 fail so far.
I use a power supply from a train set rated at 18 volts and about 1 amp. Benefits of these power supplies is variable speed and reversing switch all in one. I am using 1 power supply per 5 motors.
I think the motors are rated at 12 volts but they will hold up at 18.
If you cut off the square tab and can mount it accuratly in a drill press or mill then you can drill out the plastic drive to 17/64 ot even 5/16 and tap to the desired thread. You then can screw the cue directly on.
One problem that is minor is they have a mechanism that prevents the motor from turning the correct direction. This is an easy fix. All you have to do is hold the tab in place and ca glue a screw, wooden dowel or such. I have even just used a pop rivet to hold it in place.
I hope all this makes sense.
Mike Gatzke
GatzkeCues said:I have tried a variety of motors for my spray booth over the years.
I agree that certain speeds will work better for certain finishes.
Such as right now I am spraying the thickest uv finish yet I have been able to get. Problem here in New Mexico is my spray booth gets too damn hot during the summer days that when the spray thins out it wants to sag or drip when spun to fast or to slow. So what I am saying is to get variable speed. On the other hand during the cold months I have to keep everything warm just to get it to come out of the gun. This in return causes a problem with the wood wanting to breathe. So getting a good sealing coat is a must.
I think an industrial motor and speed controller is best but is out of some peoples financial reach.
Here is a solution I have found that is getting me by for now until I have time to totally revamp my booth.
Check this motor out if you can get away with slower rotation.
http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=405
I have been running these motors for quite a while and have only had 1 fail so far.
I use a power supply from a train set rated at 18 volts and about 1 amp. Benefits of these power supplies is variable speed and reversing switch all in one. I am using 1 power supply per 5 motors.
I think the motors are rated at 12 volts but they will hold up at 18.
If you cut off the square tab and can mount it accuratly in a drill press or mill then you can drill out the plastic drive to 17/64 ot even 5/16 and tap to the desired thread. You then can screw the cue directly on.
One problem that is minor is they have a mechanism that prevents the motor from turning the correct direction. This is an easy fix. All you have to do is hold the tab in place and ca glue a screw, wooden dowel or such. I have even just used a pop rivet to hold it in place.
I hope all this makes sense.
Mike Gatzke