Where is the cue ball going to go? Tried and true learning method?

How accurately can you make a peace sign? Can you adjust it for the different outbound angles as fullness varies from 1/4- to 3/4 full? Can you predict which side of which ball in a cluster you're going to hit after 2 feet of travel (from the OB to the cluster) with a 2/3-full hit?

Yes, the peace sign is much easier, and much less accurate.

bob
yes the peace sign gets you to the neighborhood of where the cue ball is going
like everything else
the answer to where the cue ball goes EXACTLY
is table time figuring it out
setting up a shot angle and watching where the cue ball goes given tip placement
to learn exactly where the cue ball goes...
there are some billiard systems that will predict this but they are based on 2 ?mother positions so they dont apply to all situations
 
bob
yes the peace sign gets you to the neighborhood of where the cue ball is going
like everything else
the answer to where the cue ball goes EXACTLY
is table time figuring it out
setting up a shot angle and watching where the cue ball goes given tip placement
to learn exactly where the cue ball goes...
there are some billiard systems that will predict this but they are based on 2 ?mother positions so they dont apply to all situations

Have you tried the 1:3 follow system?
 
Have you tried the 1:3 follow system?

yes
and for shots where the lines are not very long it was reasonable to use at the table
although practice would be needed to perfect your guestimate of 3x and to visualize the lines sinc you cant put markers on the table
but for shots like the one patrick diagrammed i found it hard to walk around the table to get the visuals
 
Larry,

It seems from our past interactions that you like looking for 'guides' or maps or indicators, or what ever one might call them.

IMHO even with such it always comes down to feel to be precisely accurate even when using the above mentioned types of aids.

What I would suggest, since you have a home table, is simple play caroms. By that I mean throw the 1 & 3 ball out on the table with the CB & make the CB contact both balls.

By not having to focus on pocketing the ball but instead on how the CB comes off, you will build a subconscious data base of how the CB comes off for the type of CB hits of the tip & where you aimed them on the OB.

This way you are building feel that will not be dependent on an 'aid'. Being too analytical can be suicide.

Just my 2 cents & food for thought.

Best Wishes to Ya... & ALL.

PS In reality it will not be so much about where the CB will go, but it will be about where you want to make the CB go.
 
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Have you tried the 1:3 follow system?
Bob, I assume this means to estimate the 1:3 ratio (OB cut angle to CB carom angle) for nearly straight shots as viewed from straight down the CB's original path...? If I'm not mistaken, the closest this gets to 1:3 is about 1:2.5 (for the 0.8 & 0.9 fractional examples you used) - unless the shot is hit harder than slow roll to widen the carom.

Seems to me that estimating the 1:3 ratio could be more accurate and more widely applicable (for not-so-straight shots too) if the 1:3 ratio is estimated by looking straight down the OB's intended path (so the tangent line is always perpendicular to the shooter's line of sight).

Does that make sense?

pj <- trying to make this more workable at the table
chgo
 
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Larry,

It seems from our past interactions that you like looking for 'guides' or maps or indicators, or what ever one might call them.

IMHO even with such it always comes down to feel to be precisely accurate even when using the above mentioned types of aids.

What I would suggest, since you have a home table, is simple play caroms. By that I mean throw the 1 & 3 ball out on the table with the CB & make the CB contact both balls.

By not having to focus on pocketing the ball but instead on how the CB comes off, you will build a subconscious data base of how the CB comes off for the type of CB hits of the tip & where you aimed them on the OB.

This way you are building feel that will not be dependent on an 'aid'. Being too analytical can be suicide.

Just my 2 cents & food for thought.

Best Wishes to Ya... & ALL.

PS In reality it will not be so much about where the CB will go, but it will be about where you want to make the CB go.

thanks rick
how good one gets at the part i bolded above is among what separates the better players
 
thanks rick
how good one gets at the part i bolded above is among what separates the better players

That's it Larry...

& one does not paint Masterpieces by staying on the vertical axis.

When one gets to the point of referring to the CB as I, as in where do "I" want to go, is when one is getting there.

Have I sent you the Slo Mo video of the 'around the clock' tip contact points?

Best 2 Ya.
 
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Bob, I assume this means to estimate the 1:3 ratio (OB cut angle to CB carom angle) for nearly straight shots as viewed from straight down the CB's original path...? If I'm not mistaken, the closest this gets to 1:3 is about 1:2.5 (for the 0.8 & 0.9 fractional examples you used) - unless the shot is hit harder than slow roll to widen the carom.

Seems to me that estimating the 1:3 ratio could be more accurate and more widely applicable (for not-so-straight shots too) if the 1:3 ratio is estimated by looking straight down the OB's intended path (so the tangent line is always perpendicular to the shooter's line of sight).

Does that make sense?

pj <- trying to make this more workable at the table
chgo
Actually, I meant the general system as you diagrammed.
 
Oh, OK.

What do you think of estimating the 1:3 ratio by sighting along the OB path?

pj
chgo
I have usually used the system for cuts thinner than half ball. In that case, I like to place my stick perpendicular to the OB path and then go towards the cue ball by 1/4 the distance. From that point I sight through the ghost ball and maybe add a little parallel movement for the hook just after contact.
 
I have usually used the system for cuts thinner than half ball. In that case, I like to place my stick perpendicular to the OB path and then go towards the cue ball by 1/4 the distance. From that point I sight through the ghost ball and maybe add a little parallel movement for the hook just after contact.
Yes, I remember you describing this before (slightly differently). Thanks.

pj
chgo
 
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