Where to buy carbide bushings

Chris Byrne

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am looking to find an inexpensive supplier for carbide bushings. I am looking for 5/8 id by 7/8 od by 1inch long. I have ordered from yillik before and their price was $42 each. I was curious if anyone knows of anywhere cheaper? Thanks in advance, feel free to pm me if you don't want to say on an open forum. Chris.
 
madison bob

Chris Byrne said:
I am looking to find an inexpensive supplier for carbide bushings. I am looking for 5/8 id by 7/8 od by 1inch long. I have ordered from yillik before and their price was $42 each. I was curious if anyone knows of anywhere cheaper? Thanks in advance, feel free to pm me if you don't want to say on an open forum. Chris.
You may try surplus .com madison bob
 
Chris Byrne said:
I am looking to find an inexpensive supplier for carbide bushings. I am looking for 5/8 id by 7/8 od by 1inch long. I have ordered from yillik before and their price was $42 each. I was curious if anyone knows of anywhere cheaper? Thanks in advance, feel free to pm me if you don't want to say on an open forum. Chris.

That is cheap! I paid 66.00 plus change for each of mine from MSC.
Dick
 
That price sounds good to me also, but Mike W would probably be the best person to ask that question to. Probably depends on how much you buy at one time I would think. If only getting a few, then that price sounds about right IMO.

Greg
 
I didden't think that price was terrible, I just wanted to see if anyone had a cheaper supplier. Every little bit helps. Chris.
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
What are you using the bushings for????????...JER
Sanding jig/mandrel I bet so the customers don't have to send their butts when ordering new shafts.
 
Chris Byrne said:
Yes for sanding mandrels. I just got a new toolpost grinder and want to make a few sets.
Great. Lemme order some.
Radial pins, .850 and .856 at the faces with 15 thou per inch taper. :D :eek:
 
Chris Byrne said:
Yes for sanding mandrels. I just got a new toolpost grinder and want to make a few sets.
Did you spring for a Dumore?
I've got a 1/2 HP and a 1/4 HP.
Both from fleabay, and those two with a $#!t load of stones for under a grand.
:D
:D
:D
 
Yes I got a dumore off ebay for a good price. I wanted to make several sets of mandrels and for the cost of having my local guy grind them I was able to get my own grinder and do them myself. I just wanted to see if anyone had a good source for the carbide. Everyone I have found selling it is selling super tight tolerance precision bushings. I only need rough size tube since I will be grinding it anyway.
 
Hmmmm...
To my knowledge, the carbide is molded and then ground. If you ask, they might forego the O.D. grind and just make sure the I.D. is correct. It wouldn't hurt to ask. Or they may all have the process down pat to where it comes out of the mold perfect/precise.
I need to get around to making some mandrels as well.
 
madison bob

chris this doe,s not have anything to do with price but i thought i would share this with you all. my son and myself have been installing our finish,s so close lately that we can build a shaft for any cue we make without carbide dummys to match them off of.and we don,t roll them over are nothing like that we just measure each finish we do and there within 1 thousands which is not noticeable at all . we were not always able to do this untill lately but we have noticed if you controll the joint numbers on shafts and butts when your cutting and sanding them removing the same amount of material dureing both processes then applying pretty close to the same amount of finish and sand it back down to the same finish numbers everytime carbides are not needed at all . we still have to have our customers send us the butts on our older cues but on the ones we have build in the last year that were not spiecal made joint sizes we don,t need the butts at all. and we can match them perfect everytime. remember this on cues with inserts the pins are always sloppy fitting in the inserts so when you tighten them up the shaft pushs to one side to make up for the slop making the shaft hang over one side of the butt but it can be fixed back with finish to striaghten it back out. now lets say when useing carbides on wood to wood joints one of your shafts don,t get taped as tight and has a little slop so you screw it on your carbide and match it up and it has pushed over a little but you don,t notice now when you send it to you customer it hangs over a little but its the same size when you measure it now your wondering what happened.another thing is faces from shaft to shaft with useing one set of carbides can be off from one shaft to another causeing the shaft to woble when you have it in the lathe and attached to the carbide. these are a few problems that can come from useing carbides that,s why we hand face every shaft to the butt making the face match perfect and roll perfect for the life of the cue . this is why it would be nice to have your costumers send the butts back everytime but i realize this can,t always be done. MADISON BOB
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the post. I only use the radial pin on my cues. I follow the directions exactly when tapping the shaft. I have never had a shaft end up off center when finished. If the mandrels are ground perfect the pin is in the exact center. even if there is some slop in the threads it is not enough to show up when the cue is assembled.
I see nothing wrong with hand matching a shaft to a butt, however it seems you are making the job harder on yourself. I like the idea of having a mandrel to sand shaft or butt to so the outter diameter is concentric with the joint pin. If I have a shaft that was that sloppy in the threads that it can't line up centered on the mandrel pin I would scrap it anyway. If the pin was installed offcenter I would scrap it as well. I still hold very tight tolerances when making a cue and don't need to do very much sanding to match the cue to the mandrel. At this time I am only using a finish mandrel set. I sand the raw cue to the mandrel. then remove the mandrel and do a little more sanding to make room for the finnish. After finishing I sand to the mandrel and polish. I only remove aprox. .003 to .005 from raw cue to ready to spray. I cut the raw cue to the mandrel diameter. That leaves enough material to remove to get rid of any tooling marks and make room for the finnish.
It works for me. Chris.
 
madison bob

Chris Byrne said:
Thanks for the post. I only use the radial pin on my cues. I follow the directions exactly when tapping the shaft. I have never had a shaft end up off center when finished. If the mandrels are ground perfect the pin is in the exact center. even if there is some slop in the threads it is not enough to show up when the cue is assembled.
I see nothing wrong with hand matching a shaft to a butt, however it seems you are making the job harder on yourself. I like the idea of having a mandrel to sand shaft or butt to so the outter diameter is concentric with the joint pin. If I have a shaft that was that sloppy in the threads that it can't line up centered on the mandrel pin I would scrap it anyway. If the pin was installed offcenter I would scrap it as well. I still hold very tight tolerances when making a cue and don't need to do very much sanding to match the cue to the mandrel. At this time I am only using a finish mandrel set. I sand the raw cue to the mandrel. then remove the mandrel and do a little more sanding to make room for the finnish. After finishing I sand to the mandrel and polish. I only remove aprox. .003 to .005 from raw cue to ready to spray. I cut the raw cue to the mandrel diameter. That leaves enough material to remove to get rid of any tooling marks and make room for the finnish.
It works for me. Chris.

chris i do not match the shaft to the butt by hand i said i hand face the shaft to the butt by hand and there is a reason for that because no matter how well you face it on the machine the wood is hard and soft because your facing across the grain of the shaft are butt. Try this make one driver with a radial pin sticking out the end and face the driver to the pin tap 5 shafts and face each one after taping it so the face is dead zero to the hole you just taped, Zero your driver you made in the lathe with the pin running zero and the face of it running zero . now screw on each shaft one at a time and you will find that maybe 2 out of five will run with no woble either at the joint are out in the middle of the shaft . This is not do to how striaght you tapped the shaft,s are drilled them its because of the face not being perfecly flat because of facing across the grain. Wood does not face as true as metal because of the hardness in different areas of the grain. This also holds true on butts if you make one driver to run all butts to, And do your sanding are finishing then you,ll find that that 2 out of five will run striaght for the same reasons. We use a delrin driver on each butt we build we center the cue in the lathe after the finish cut and zero the pin now we screw on the delrin driver and true it to that butt with the tool post now all of the sanding and finishing is done only with that driver untill the cue is done that way you do away with the face and know that driver is dead inline with the pin and the cue. Then when were done we throw the delrin driver over in the bucket and reface it to the next cue were building untill it,s finished, so one driver will go thru 10 cues before its done with. this sounds like alot of work on here but it takes no time to do and your sure your cue runs perfect every time. you can not take a set of carbides and get every butt and every shaft to run true to that one driver. i know people do this but i know if they are they are running the chance on 2 out of 5 cues are being sanded to a false face. In other words after sanding 5 cues with your, are someone else carbides and your done take the driver off and center the butts in the lathe now see if the pin,s run striaght without having to push around on the cue,s in order to get them to. I would bet that my numbers are close, just try it .On shafts we do not use delrin drivers we sand them between centers, there for we do not need the drivers . I showed this to woody at woodworth custom cues and he freaked on it and did not believe it at first. But after showing him a second time he agreed and now hand faces every cue for striaghtness for the life of the cue because once the face is off it stays that way and gets worse inless it fixed right. as for any slopy shaft threads i agree with you if there that loose throw it away i was just trying to get you to understand how this could happen. chris these are my things i have found on my own and i know all people won,t agree. But i have proved it to my self try what i have told you and you will see what i mean. Please don,t be affended in any way as i said this is no attack on you are your ways just something i thought i would tell you about and have you try it and see if this holds true for you to. :) MADISON BOB

PS. MAKE your drivers out of wood are delrin to give the test the same chances you would have if it was a true cue. but even with metal it would still be low numbers. Have you ever build 2 shafts for a cue and find one rolls off a little more than the other when you roll the hole cue together on the table? Even thou everything when the cue is apart rolls perfect. this is why the shafts both need to be hand faced to the butt because of the faces not being perfect because your facing across the grain .Also why you have these shafts screwed to the drivers take the center in the tailstock and pull it away from the shaft and watch the end of the shaft with no center attached to it see how true it really rolls. it should roll with no woble on the tip end if it don,t then you will see what i mean about drivers and faces. PLEASE LET US KNOW HOW THE TEST,S COMES OUT!!!!
 
Last edited:
bob griffin said:
chris i do not match the shaft to the butt by hand i said i hand face the shaft to the butt by hand and there is a reason for that because no matter how well you face it on the machine the wood is hard and soft because your facing across the grain of the shaft are butt. Try this make one driver with a radial pin sticking out the end and face the driver to the pin tap 5 shafts and face each one after taping it so the face is dead zero to the hole you just taped, Zero your driver you made in the lathe with the pin running zero and the face of it running zero . now screw on each shaft one at a time and you will find that maybe 2 out of five will run with no woble either at the joint are out in the middle of the shaft . This is not do to how striaght you tapped the shaft,s are drilled them its because of the face not being perfecly flat because of facing across the grain. Wood does not face as true as metal because of the hardness in different areas of the grain. This also holds true on butts if you make one driver to run all butts to, And do your sanding are finishing then you,ll find that that 2 out of five will run striaght for the same reasons. We use a delrin driver on each butt we build we center the cue in the lathe after the finish cut and zero the pin now we screw on the delrin driver and true it to that butt with the tool post now all of the sanding and finishing is done only with that driver untill the cue is done that way you do away with the face and know that driver is dead inline with the pin and the cue. Then when were done we throw the delrin driver over in the bucket and reface it to the next cue were building untill it,s finished, so one driver will go thru 10 cues before its done with. this sounds like alot of work on here but it takes no time to do and your sure your cue runs perfect every time. you can not take a set of carbides and get every butt and every shaft to run true to that one driver. i know people do this but i know if they are they are running the chance on 2 out of 5 cues are being sanded to a false face. In other words after sanding 5 cues with your, are someone else carbides and your done take the driver off and center the butts in the lathe now see if the pin,s run striaght without having to push around on the cue,s in order to get them to. I would bet that my numbers are close, just try it .On shafts we do not use delrin drivers we sand them between centers, there for we do not need the drivers . I showed this to woody at woodworth custom cues and he freaked on it and did not believe it at first. But after showing him a second time he agreed and now hand faces every cue for striaghtness for the life of the cue because once the face is off it stays that way and gets worse inless it fixed right. as for any slopy shaft threads i agree with you if there that loose throw it away i was just trying to get you to understand how this could happen. chris these are my things i have found on my own and i know all people won,t agree. But i have proved it to my self try what i have told you and you will see what i mean. Please don,t be affended in any way as i said this is no attack on you are your ways just something i thought i would tell you about and have you try it and see if this holds true for you to. :) MADISON BOB

PS. MAKE your drivers out of wood are delrin to give the test the same chances you would have if it was a true cue. but even with metal it would still be low numbers. Have you ever build 2 shafts for a cue and find one rolls off a little more than the other when you roll the hole cue together on the table? Even thou everything when the cue is apart rolls perfect. this is why the shafts both need to be hand faced to the butt because of the faces not being perfect because your facing across the grain .Also why you have these shafts screwed to the drivers take the center in the tailstock and pull it away from the shaft and watch the end of the shaft with no center attached to it see how true it really rolls. it should roll with no woble on the tip end if it don,t then you will see what i mean about drivers and faces. PLEASE LET US KNOW HOW THE TEST,S COMES OUT!!!!


I like to soak the end grains of the wood with a little thin super glue. When I face them off they are perfect. I also use a rounded cutter ground to a slight angle to do the facing on the cue not one with a point.
 
macguy said:
I like to soak the end grains of the wood with a little thin super glue. When I face them off they are perfect. I also use a rounded cutter ground to a slight angle to do the facing on the cue not one with a point.

I do the same thing with the super glue on end grain to seal and harden. Also, actually, all single point cutters should have a slight radius on the point of the tool. The larger the radius - the smoother the cut. I sharpen all of my tooling on a degreed carbide tool bit cutter and once they are sharpened at the angles I want I take a flat diamond hone and by hand, holding the same radius as on the cutter I round the sharp edge off of the point.
Dick
 
madison bob

macguy said:
I like to soak the end grains of the wood with a little thin super glue. When I face them off they are perfect. I also use a rounded cutter ground to a slight angle to do the facing on the cue not one with a point.

i see how you would think this would help but think about it the softer grain will soak in more glue and the harder won,t so now the hardness is right back to were you started hard and soft . the radius on the cutter helps but still does not take care of the problem . here you go i know you have some shafts laying around that are already taped put your carbides in the lathe zero the face of the carbide and zero the pin now screw each shaft on the carbide with no tailstock holding the shaft on the tip end try 5 this way 29 inchs out there by the tip you will see 2 out of 5 shafts woble on the tip end even useing the glue on the faces and remember the face on your carbides are ground not like a butt face so your giving it a better chance not to roll off but they will. there a couple of other things that add to the problem but they are not as major of a problem as the face. one thing about useing the glue is it does keep the moisture from getting in to the cue thru the faces thats why i also do the same thing and i use it on the bottom of the cue also to seal out moisture. MADISON BOB
 
Last edited:
bob griffin said:
chris i do not match the shaft to the butt by hand i said i hand face the shaft to the butt by hand...
Bob,
Could you please explain, how you hand face the shaft to the butt.

Tracy
 
RSB-Refugee said:
Bob,
Could you please explain, how you hand face the shaft to the butt.

Tracy
I dunno exactly what Bob means but my own procedure of what I could call hand facing is after checking the shaft where it's off at the butt, lightly scrape that area with a blade then join again and check... with the butt chucked on the lathe and hand turning it and see how off the tip end of the shaft is from the tailstock. If that's what Bob meant I attest to that that it works fine. Been there done that... things are much better now :D

Hadj
 
Back
Top