Where to buy Imron?

X Breaker

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Could anyone please tell me where to buy Imron, and is there anything special I should know about before using it, other than the fact that it is toxic?

Also, what is, in each person's own opinion, the best finish to use on a cue?

Thank you.

Richard
 
nipponbilliards said:
Could anyone please tell me where to buy Imron, and is there anything special I should know about before using it, other than the fact that it is toxic?

Also, what is, in each person's own opinion, the best finish to use on a cue?

Thank you.

Richard

Why do you believe Imron is what you want to use? You get it from auto paint suppliers.
 
nipponbilliards said:
Could anyone please tell me where to buy Imron, and is there anything special I should know about before using it, other than the fact that it is toxic?

Also, what is, in each person's own opinion, the best finish to use on a cue?

Thank you.

Richard

Do not spray Imron without a fresh air breathing system. Just a mask is not sufficient! I sprayed 3 cues with Imron almost 20 years ago and I thought I was going to die, and was afraid I wouldnt! I was as sick as a dog for 3 days!

Personally, I don't think it's worth the trouble. I found a great auto clearcoat that was much cheaper, gave better results and was a bit more user friendly! It's called "Transtar". It's available at my local auto paint supplier. But the best thing I've found yet is a special UV catalyzed finish, but it's takes some time to get the procedure down just right. There are some tricks to it I've found!

just more hot air!

Sherm
 
cuesmith said:
Do not spray Imron without a fresh air breathing system. Just a mask is not sufficient! I sprayed 3 cues with Imron almost 20 years ago and I thought I was going to die, and was afraid I wouldnt! I was as sick as a dog for 3 days!

Personally, I don't think it's worth the trouble. I found a great auto clearcoat that was much cheaper, gave better results and was a bit more user friendly! It's called "Transtar". It's available at my local auto paint supplier. But the best thing I've found yet is a special UV catalyzed finish, but it's takes some time to get the procedure down just right. There are some tricks to it I've found!

just more hot air!

Sherm

Would you mind to share with me the web site of the finish you mentioned? I am asking on behalf of a friend in Japan.

I was told that Imron is used on aircrafts and that it is a bit elastic with a "memory" so minor scratches will disappear over time on its own. Is that correct?

Thank you.

Richard
 
nipponbilliards said:
Would you mind to share with me the web site of the finish you mentioned? I am asking on behalf of a friend in Japan.

I was told that Imron is used on aircrafts and that it is a bit elastic with a "memory" so minor scratches will disappear over time on its own. Is that correct?

Thank you.

Richard

I'm not sure which you wanted the info on. I'd suggest your friend try google.
Thats what I'd have to do to find any web info for him on these materials. I don't believe the part about scratches taking care of themselves though. They can possibly be buffed out, but they are not going to just disappear.

Sherm
 
nipponbilliards said:
Would you mind to share with me the web site of the finish you mentioned? I am asking on behalf of a friend in Japan.

I was told that Imron is used on aircrafts and that it is a bit elastic with a "memory" so minor scratches will disappear over time on its own. Is that correct?

Thank you.

Richard

I don't know anything about using or applying Imron, but I bought a used motorcycle back in 1979 that was painted Cherry Red with Imron on metal and plastic pieces.

Yes, the paint stays very, very slightly elastic and it didn't really scratch - too slick. Groove lines would soften over time. I rode it a lot and was not very careful with it. Sold it after 4 years, it had just a bit of wax "swirl" on some pieces, but the finish was still amazingly deep.
 
nipponbilliards said:
Would you mind to share with me the web site of the finish you mentioned? I am asking on behalf of a friend in Japan.

I was told that Imron is used on aircrafts and that it is a bit elastic with a "memory" so minor scratches will disappear over time on its own. Is that correct?

Thank you.

Richard

One thing it does is, the sligetest dent will turn into a blister. The wood dents and the paint will pop back to level leaving the cue with a white looking blister in the finish. Use finish that is formulated for wood not metal. How did it get started to use car finish on cues? Just my opinion but a standard conversion varnish will do a fine job on a cue.
 
macguy said:
One thing it does is, the sligetest dent will turn into a blister. The wood dents and the paint will pop back to level leaving the cue with a white looking blister in the finish. Use finish that is formulated for wood not metal. How did it get started to use car finish on cues? Just my opinion but a standard conversion varnish will do a fine job on a cue.
You have any brand preference Mac?

Thnx.
 
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