which pantomill
- Thread starter Dman
- Start date
If you are going to use it manually then all three should work fine. The 3u is what I have and it is tight to fit a cnc table under the cutter spindle. I just converted my spindle to an electric unit and that gave me alot of extra clearance. The p1-2 I know has plenty of clearance. The -3 I have no experiance with so I don't know. I believe the 3u is the smallest of the 3 so any should work fine. Bludworth has been dealing with these for years and can tell you all you need to know. Also he rebuilds the spindles if you get one with loose bearings. Chris.
Pantograph has to be pretty cheap
I don't know if I even bookmarked it because I already have a larger unit but I saw a three axis CNC gantry style router for $1795, new and complete including some software that allows you to draw 2D and create code.
Get a 5C collet spin indexer and tailstock and a computer and you are still probably under $2500 for a complete NC set-up to do inlays. You would have to build a base for the spin indexer and tailstock but that isn't a major project.
Hu
I don't know if I even bookmarked it because I already have a larger unit but I saw a three axis CNC gantry style router for $1795, new and complete including some software that allows you to draw 2D and create code.
Get a 5C collet spin indexer and tailstock and a computer and you are still probably under $2500 for a complete NC set-up to do inlays. You would have to build a base for the spin indexer and tailstock but that isn't a major project.
Hu
ShootingArts said:
Believe me, in CNC, you get what you pay for. It's no big problem building a CNC cheaply but cheap, quality and accuracy can never be used in the same sentence. A CNC that might be great for making signs and having maybe .040 or .050ths. accuracy certainly can't be used for inlays where you need a minimum of .001. One of my Thompson precision radial ball screws cost almost as much as that whole machine.
Dick
accuracy
Dick,
I think you will find the accuracy much closer to .001 than your numbers and I'm sure you know that a lot of the accuracy of a NC machine depends on the operator and settings. The modest range of travel to cut inlays and pockets aids accuracy too.
Prowl the forums that I am providing a link to if and when you have time. It can be an eye opener as to what can be done with the cheap PC based NC machines.
Hu
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/
rhncue said:
Dick,
I think you will find the accuracy much closer to .001 than your numbers and I'm sure you know that a lot of the accuracy of a NC machine depends on the operator and settings. The modest range of travel to cut inlays and pockets aids accuracy too.
Prowl the forums that I am providing a link to if and when you have time. It can be an eye opener as to what can be done with the cheap PC based NC machines.
Hu
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/
ShootingArts said:
I've been a member of cnczone for sometime and have read quite a few of the articles. The electronics are not the problem with CNC now a days as the prices keep dropping with the use of steppers and PCs but for accuracy the machines mechanics need to be accurate. Using Acme screws for drive screws and bushings for linear bearings just don't get it for accuracy. Stripping printers and such for parts are O.K. for very small, light weight machines but their components just aren't big enough to do much good other than playing around with. I started with a Sherline CNC mill and it did pretty good inlays when all went right. Thing is I worked on much more than it ran, I had to sit and listen to it any time it ran to try and hear it loose steps and I still ruined at least one cue for every three that turned out well. They may have repeatability but they won't have accuracy. You can eliminate a little bit of slop with the software but the more there is the more troubles you have especially in radius's.
Dick
dropped steps
Dick,
I would suspect dirty power as the problem with dropped steps with your machine. I can't say from here but obviously there is no reason that stepper motors can't power a Sherline. When I first started playing with NC I was thinking I would eventually try NC'ing my J head Bridgeport and 13X40 Jet metal lathe. I was looking at servo's until people came forward that were using steppers to move far larger loads than mine with no problems.
No question set-up is a pain in the butt with any machine, including the pantograph. Once set up properly and with clean power coming to it the NC machines shouldn't need constant baby sitting. Accuracy depends on the machine and set-up. There is no reason that a fairly cheap NC machine can't hang with the pantograph for cue work. I can't say about the Sherline since I have never trued one up myself.
One thing for sure, you'll never walk away from the pantograph while it is working . . . unless you NC it.
Hu
Dick,
I would suspect dirty power as the problem with dropped steps with your machine. I can't say from here but obviously there is no reason that stepper motors can't power a Sherline. When I first started playing with NC I was thinking I would eventually try NC'ing my J head Bridgeport and 13X40 Jet metal lathe. I was looking at servo's until people came forward that were using steppers to move far larger loads than mine with no problems.
No question set-up is a pain in the butt with any machine, including the pantograph. Once set up properly and with clean power coming to it the NC machines shouldn't need constant baby sitting. Accuracy depends on the machine and set-up. There is no reason that a fairly cheap NC machine can't hang with the pantograph for cue work. I can't say about the Sherline since I have never trued one up myself.
One thing for sure, you'll never walk away from the pantograph while it is working . . . unless you NC it.
Hu
I am using the P1-2 and it does a great job.
I believe if I were to convert it to cnc I would rig up the arm of the machine rather than the table. You would not have to use very big steppers or slides but it could still be very accurate. The only problem would be the Z axis. Gorton Famco had a kit to convert your pantograph to cnc, it worked on this principle but they discontinued it.
I believe if I were to convert it to cnc I would rig up the arm of the machine rather than the table. You would not have to use very big steppers or slides but it could still be very accurate. The only problem would be the Z axis. Gorton Famco had a kit to convert your pantograph to cnc, it worked on this principle but they discontinued it.