White Diamond tip glue/epoxy

seymore15074

seymore15074

So what are you saying?
Silver Member
I have recently began using a White Diamond tip for my break/jump, and it works great. I love the tip. After about a week and a half, I broke and the tip flew off. I put another one on, and it lasted for a few weeks. Yesterday I spent some time working on my break and I can really hammer the rack with good results. A few breaks like this and the tip flew off again.

I use Duro Gel to put tips on, and I have never had one come off before other than this. Is there a stronger adhesive for the White Diamond? Epoxy perhaps? The more permanent the better...
 
seymore15074 said:
I have recently began using a White Diamond tip for my break/jump, and it works great. I love the tip. After about a week and a half, I broke and the tip flew off. I put another one on, and it lasted for a few weeks. Yesterday I spent some time working on my break and I can really hammer the rack with good results. A few breaks like this and the tip flew off again.

I use Duro Gel to put tips on, and I have never had one come off before other than this. Is there a stronger adhesive for the White Diamond? Epoxy perhaps? The more permanent the better...
Click to expand...
Lotta guys use Loctite 454. You might want to spend a little more $$ for some thermal epoxy.
 
i believe a lot has to do with the ferrule as well. i have put many phenolic tips on old playing cues and they all sooner or later came off except one. never as quick as a week tho. i put a canvis phenolic tip on a 13.5mm shaft i had for a players and it is still on there. it had a capped ferrule (i guess its what they are called...no tennon showing under tip). anyway, i guess with a thicker shaft diamater there is a lot more surface area for glue making it harder to pop off. im not saying it will never come off, just saying it hasnt yet and its been over a year. btw i use regular Super Glue Gel and install without a lathe,
Thanks,
Jay
 
Last edited:
Kevin Lindstrom said:
What type of glue does the seller of these tips recomend??????
Click to expand...

I wish I knew! Actually, I think I'll e-mail him.. I didn't even think of that.
 
As I've said umpteen times...hard nonleather tips will not stay on a break ferrule. It the side to side movement from a slight miscue that pops them off. They may stay on for a period...but they will pop off. Thats why I make mine with a threaded stem and thread them into an unbreakable ferrule. I give a lifetime warranty.
If you must...the best adhesive to use with the WD tips is Gorilla glue or JB Kwik Weld. Let either sit over night with pressure for best results. Any superglue is the worst to use.
 
Varney Cues said:
If you must...the best adhesive to use with the WD tips is Gorilla glue or JB Kwik Weld. Let either sit over night with pressure for best results. Any superglue is the worst to use.
Click to expand...

I've used that Gorilla glue before. One thing about it though is it expands. I glued a tree stand (for coats), the legs kept pulling out. I glued it and left it to dry, came back that stuff had puffed up (and out) around the outside where the leg inserted into the stand.....and it had hardened. :) :)

But those legs never came out again. :)
 
Varney Cues said:
As I've said umpteen times...hard nonleather tips will not stay on a break ferrule. It the side to side movement from a slight miscue that pops them off. They may stay on for a period...but they will pop off. Thats why I make mine with a threaded stem and thread them into an unbreakable ferrule. I give a lifetime warranty.
If you must...the best adhesive to use with the WD tips is Gorilla glue or JB Kwik Weld. Let either sit over night with pressure for best results. Any superglue is the worst to use.
Click to expand...

Oh man, JB is serious stuff. Is it possible to have one of those ferrule/tip one piece deals put on, or are those only for specific shafts?

Also, is this something that could be done for me at Valley Forge?

I might be giving in and getting Sledgehammer if I cannot get this all worked out. I might try a water buffalo tip, too... My break is very hard, even with a house cue; I don't really NEED a phenolic, but it makes it less effort.
 
Jeff said:
I've used that Gorilla glue before. One thing about it though is it expands. I glued a tree stand (for coats), the legs kept pulling out. I glued it and left it to dry, came back that stuff had puffed up (and out) around the outside where the leg inserted into the stand.....and it had hardened. :) :)

But those legs never came out again. :)
Click to expand...

Yes it does foam & expand. You need to keep firm pressure on the tip for a good bond...then it will expand sideways & not push the tip off the ferrule.
Jeff...you sent your shaft yet?
 
Here's what the White Diamond ebay auction says: Tips can be glued on with most common Super-Gels or epoxies, and are much less prone to popping off.
 
Varney Cues said:
Jeff...you sent your shaft yet?
Click to expand...

It was mailed Monday priority.

The clerk said the screen said two days to get to you. You haven't got it yet?

That's not good............

Have you got your mail today yet?
 
Jeff said:
It was mailed Monday priority.

The clerk said the screen said two days to get to you. You haven't got it yet?

That's not good............

Have you got your mail today yet?
Click to expand...

Thats not good. It didn't come today. It should of been here Wed...yesterday at the latest. Check your tracking #.
 
Varney Cues said:
Thats not good. It didn't come today. It should of been here Wed...yesterday at the latest. Check your tracking #.
Click to expand...

Sent you a PM
 
when i had my white diamond installedon a capped saber-t ferrule. he used what looked like regular super glue. i know he scuffed up the back of the tip before installing, not sure if he scuffed the ferrule or not, but that was done about 5-6 weeks ago and is holding strong. i do know know that when he installed it on my jacoby jumper with a brass ferrule he did scuff the ferule on that one in addition to the back of the tip.
 
Last edited:
I think the problem is if you don't hit the cue ball dead center on the tip.

If you mess up and hit more towards the edge/side of the tip, it has a much worse chance of popping off.
 
i dont think there is a solution. if JB weld doesnt work than i would have to suggest Varneys solution. i dont know of anything that works better than JB weld on hard objects. curiosity struck me here....what does Mike's patent bann...having a one piece ferrule/tip on a tennon, or having a threaded one piece ferrule/tip on a threaded tennon?
thanks,
Jay
 
Last edited:
seymore15074 said:
Yes, but that doesn't make it "ok" to pop off. I'm looking for a solution...
Click to expand...

I agree

That's why my shaft is at Varneys getting his tip put on. He was generous to offer me a deal (free) if I would post on what I thought about it.

But before I even get it back, I have to give him props for even making the offer. Not just because he offered to do it for free, but because he has enough faith in his tip to want me to make an honest opinion about it on the forum after I use it.
 
Jeff said:
I agree

That's why my shaft is at Varneys getting his tip put on. He was generous to offer me a deal (free) if I would post on what I thought about it.

But before I even get it back, I have to give him props for even making the offer. Not just because he offered to do it for free, but because he has enough faith in his tip to want me to make an honest opinion about it on the forum after I use it.
Click to expand...

Let me know if he needs a "second opinion". :p
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top