Whyte carbon shaft
- Thread starter bama1025
- Start date
Havent tried it personally, the interchangeable joint is a cool feature, but also could be grounds for higher deflection I would think .
marini3105
Member
I have two Whyte Raw Carbon Fiber Player Shafts, I really like playing with them and would recommend.
The insert should not have any impact on deflection, please see Dr. Dave's article from Feb 2008 on the topic.
I measured deflection by setting an object ball 2 balls off the foot rail (only 1 ball distance would lead to double kiss) and one diamond from the long rail (nearest long rail to right hand side), cue ball in line with it and one diamond from head rail (about 7 diamonds between the two, I have a recreational 8' table). Lined up cue ball (6 dot Aramith) with red dot in center, cued with right hand parallel English, where left side of tip was aligned with right edge of the red dot. I used lag speed. Cue ball struck the object ball off center enough to put it on a line back to the narrow (right) side corner pocket (my hit was only hard enough to stop at the center of the table though). I play with a Kamui clear black medium.
They are 12.25mm shafts. Measured 12.26mm and 12.28mm about 1/2" below the ferrule. Measured 21.55mm at joint.
Length of shaft, from joint face to bottom of ferrule is 29 1/8" on both, ferrule is 1/8" for total of 29 1/4".
Weight is slightly over 3.5 oz, with a radial inset.
Both are the 550 stiffness rating, I see their break shaft has a 600 stiffness rating - if anyone can explain the specification impact of the stiffness rating. My take away, the lower the stiffness rating the less defection you'll have.
I haven't noticed chalk dust being a distraction on the shaft, I have a cf shaft with a high gloss finish and chalk dust does become a distraction when I'm down on my shot. Carry alcohol wipes to keep shaft clean.
Only challenge I've had, and this is on the OB version, is the insert screw loosening up. I keep a $7 T20 flag driver in my bag. You'll know this is happening because you'll start to hear a sound like a cracked shaft. Took about three months of daily play with the OB to get to this point. Didn't see to impact playability at all. Easy fix to tighten back up.
The insert should not have any impact on deflection, please see Dr. Dave's article from Feb 2008 on the topic.
I measured deflection by setting an object ball 2 balls off the foot rail (only 1 ball distance would lead to double kiss) and one diamond from the long rail (nearest long rail to right hand side), cue ball in line with it and one diamond from head rail (about 7 diamonds between the two, I have a recreational 8' table). Lined up cue ball (6 dot Aramith) with red dot in center, cued with right hand parallel English, where left side of tip was aligned with right edge of the red dot. I used lag speed. Cue ball struck the object ball off center enough to put it on a line back to the narrow (right) side corner pocket (my hit was only hard enough to stop at the center of the table though). I play with a Kamui clear black medium.
They are 12.25mm shafts. Measured 12.26mm and 12.28mm about 1/2" below the ferrule. Measured 21.55mm at joint.
Length of shaft, from joint face to bottom of ferrule is 29 1/8" on both, ferrule is 1/8" for total of 29 1/4".
Weight is slightly over 3.5 oz, with a radial inset.
Both are the 550 stiffness rating, I see their break shaft has a 600 stiffness rating - if anyone can explain the specification impact of the stiffness rating. My take away, the lower the stiffness rating the less defection you'll have.
I haven't noticed chalk dust being a distraction on the shaft, I have a cf shaft with a high gloss finish and chalk dust does become a distraction when I'm down on my shot. Carry alcohol wipes to keep shaft clean.
Only challenge I've had, and this is on the OB version, is the insert screw loosening up. I keep a $7 T20 flag driver in my bag. You'll know this is happening because you'll start to hear a sound like a cracked shaft. Took about three months of daily play with the OB to get to this point. Didn't see to impact playability at all. Easy fix to tighten back up.
Last edited:
Go to the link below and click on "stiffness effects" on the right from the list to read about how stiffness affects deflection (basically it doesn't). If you also click through the rest you can learn all the rest of the ins and outs about deflection.
Squirt (Cue Ball Deflection) - Billiards and Pool Principles, Techniques, Resources
Answers to frequently-asked questions (FAQs) about how to judge and compensate for cue ball deflection (squirt) in pool shots with sidespin (english).
billiards.colostate.edu
Off the top of my head where stiffness is going to make a difference is in personal preference in the feel of the hit, and a stiffer shaft will transfer energy slightly better all else being equal.
marini3105
Member
Thanks for the link, that all makes sense and who am I to argue with math?
I'm not an ME (although in my experience as an EE everything thinks they're an ME...), what I don't know (and I will eventually send Whyte an email asking this) - what does a stiffness of 550 mean versus a stiffness of 600 (and they offer 650, 700)? I didn't see any units, so perhaps a relative measurement? Unclear if it's a material difference or a material thickness difference, I need to go back and read their site again (but my wife just figured out I'm not out cutting the grass...). Right now I'm assuming thickness difference, which would translate to slightly more weight and deflection in exchange for compressive strength?
I'm not an ME (although in my experience as an EE everything thinks they're an ME...), what I don't know (and I will eventually send Whyte an email asking this) - what does a stiffness of 550 mean versus a stiffness of 600 (and they offer 650, 700)? I didn't see any units, so perhaps a relative measurement? Unclear if it's a material difference or a material thickness difference, I need to go back and read their site again (but my wife just figured out I'm not out cutting the grass...). Right now I'm assuming thickness difference, which would translate to slightly more weight and deflection in exchange for compressive strength?
SlateMan
Registered
I've had a Whyte Carbon shaft for about 2 months, just received the correct insert (I won the shaft in a raffle). I've been shooting with a Revo shaft and the transition to the Whyte carbon was seamless. I have the same type of tip on both shafts (HOW tip). I had to make sure I tightened the insert enough so the shaft lined up to the butt of the cue correctly (at first here was a slight ridge). The Whyte shaft feels so much smoother than the Revo. I know it is new, but it feels very smooth and stokes well. I am a banger so I can't tell you the minor details to differentiate but overall it is a great shaft. The smoothness of the shaft seems to be the biggest difference for me.
The joint is too far from the tip to make a difference in squirt - my understanding is that only the first several inches at the tip end matter. You can test this by wrapping some lead tape around the shaft at various distances from the tip to see where its effect on squirt ends.
pj
chgo
If alls tight, I dont see deflection playing a part. With the joint not being a permanent fixture , Im thinking it has potential to come loose here and again, which is why I suggested it may be grounds for deflection.
What matters for deflection is the amount of weight (mass) in the first six inches or so of the tip end of the shaft. If the joint isn't in the first six inches or so of the tip of the shaft, regardless of whether the joint is loose or not loose, it is not going to affect deflection. See the link in post #4 for more detail.
Great feeling shaft. Least CF-feeling shaft out there. Ingenious changeable joint system. About $575. They advertise that it feels like wood. They’re not far off.
That said, the Bull Carbon shaft is very good, and it’s interchangeable joint system I think is better overall. They can work with Schuler, which is a plus. About $400
Neither is as low deflection as Revo, in case that’s what people are looking for. The interchangeable joints is a big plus for people like me.
Last edited:
Information from the Expo - the shaft is painted white. However, unlike the earlier version of the Becue, which was also painted white with an aircraft gloss paint and would get real sticky with moist hands, this feels just like their black carbon shaft. I asked what happens if the paint chipped and they said they would just send me another shaft. With the Becue they wanted you to use touch-up paint in the event of a chip. i believe the Becue no longer comes with the white paint.
The Whyte has a very nice feel to it, both painted and unpainted.
Regardless where the deflection starts, if the joint comes loose I dont see how it wont deflect is point I was making @Poolplaya9.
This is all hypothetical , Ill have to try 1 to see if its worth the price, however for the price Id rather spend my money on something thats proven to be more accurate with less compensation.
This is all hypothetical , Ill have to try 1 to see if its worth the price, however for the price Id rather spend my money on something thats proven to be more accurate with less compensation.
still, i suspect that paint will age, maybe crack, with time.
as i understand it, cf can never be naturally white. but can it be various shades of grey, and if so, how light grey can it get?
Thanks for this information coming from the Expo. I wish I was there myself!! please since you're there could you also clarify to me the tapper and if its any similar to the 12.4 Revo? I'm really used to REvo's 12.4 tapper. Thank you mate
You can keep hypothesizing or you can just go read that link I posted and actually learn what does and does not affect squirt/deflection. The joint does not affect it. The nice thing about facts is that their trueness is independent of people's beliefs, yours included.
Perhaps you mean something else by deflection than the standard definition that everybody else is going by, but that too can be cleared up if you read the link.
If by loose joint you mean that the shaft is able to wiggle sideways back and forth and is not held in line with the cue butt, I don't know that deflection would the the proper or in any case best description for the problem. It would just be inaccuracy caused by a loose shaft.
Squirt (Cue Ball Deflection) - Billiards and Pool Principles, Techniques, Resources
Answers to frequently-asked questions (FAQs) about how to judge and compensate for cue ball deflection (squirt) in pool shots with sidespin (english).
billiards.colostate.edu
Last edited:
Just read my post and make your decision. Don’t do the hypothetical thing. You’ve been told what causes deflection. Loose joints (and this isn’t going to get loose) is a red herring non-issue. Almost all of the non-Revo CF shafts are not as low deflection as Revo.
They had one similar to 12.4 (maybe 12.5mm)