will clearcoat stick to brass joint?
- Thread starter BHQ
- Start date
Preface with.."I'm NOT a cuemaker".
Yes you can use laquer or polyurethane clear. The polyurethan will hold up better. The most important factor is that you have the brass ABSOLUTELY CLEAN, no polish residue,no skin oils...NOTHING. ANY contamination and the clear will flake off. You could just go without the clear and use a rag with a dab of Brasso to to keep it shiney.
Terry
Yes you can use laquer or polyurethane clear. The polyurethan will hold up better. The most important factor is that you have the brass ABSOLUTELY CLEAN, no polish residue,no skin oils...NOTHING. ANY contamination and the clear will flake off. You could just go without the clear and use a rag with a dab of Brasso to to keep it shiney.
Terry
stix4sale said:
No, I'd avoid rubbing alcohol,it has contaminants, use either denatured alcohol or a wax remover.
I sprayed an old novelty cue I had laying around, first time it didn't hold (contamination),second time around it's still on there but the brass isn't as smooth as the first time either. I was going to try a pre-coat of some stuff that's supposed to allow you to spray aluminum or chrome but decided against it.
I ran a google on "clear coat brass", looks like the commercial way is to use powder coat but they also seem to use the polyurethane.
Terry
brass joint
Don't put anything on the brass joint. Treat it the same as you would stainless. Sand the forearm to slightly under the finished size of the brass, remove the brass and finish the cue. Try-fit the brass after the finish is completed. The finish should be built up to the brass and no difference should be felt. No gaps. The brass will patina over time if allowed to do so. Some like it, some don't. The patina process can be avoided by simple cleaning once in a while.
Dave
Don't put anything on the brass joint. Treat it the same as you would stainless. Sand the forearm to slightly under the finished size of the brass, remove the brass and finish the cue. Try-fit the brass after the finish is completed. The finish should be built up to the brass and no difference should be felt. No gaps. The brass will patina over time if allowed to do so. Some like it, some don't. The patina process can be avoided by simple cleaning once in a while.
Dave
You probably don't want our weather right now. Its been raining for 2 weeks straight. (But nice and warm).
I forgot, on the brass, you can go to a music store or furniture store and get some stuff that prevents the brass from discoloring. Its used on brass instruments to keep them nice and shiny and protected from weather (moisture).
Dave
I forgot, on the brass, you can go to a music store or furniture store and get some stuff that prevents the brass from discoloring. Its used on brass instruments to keep them nice and shiny and protected from weather (moisture).
Dave
cuebuilder said:
Speaking of instrument polish, There was a product that a friend Of mine use to like called Winsor polish and tarnish preventive, and It was for copper & Brass. I remember years ago the music store quit carrying It, but he contacted them directly because he was so impressed by It, and ordered a whole case of the stuff. I don't know if they are still in bussiness, I have a bottle here and It has Anawan Associates INC. with a P.O. box number underneath It that's kind of hard to make out. If anyone wants the address PM me and I'll try to make out what is on the bottle as best as I can. No phone # on It, but a good search may bring something up on It.
Greg
No finish iirc.WilleeCue said:
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