With weight bolts versus without

N

newcuer

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What are the thoughts on using weight bolts to attain the desired cue weight versus a cue that is at the desired weight without weight bolts?

I mean, is it better if you want a butt that weighs 15 ounces for that butt to be built at that weight (and is non adjustable) as opppose to attaining that weight using weight bolts? Or does it really not make a difference?
 
Too many other variables. For instance I have an all maple steel jointed one with no bolt and that comes in at 18. Another one comes in at 16. I also have several all maple implex joiners with the bolts removed and those come in at 13 oz give or take.

Cue makers seem to pride themselves in classical construction with natural weight and balance and often you get this calico effect trying to get the wood to work. I prefer the look of simplicity with a bolt if needed.

If there's a difference to you, there's nothing wrong with spending money in that direction.
 
I guess if you add too much weight to the rear of the cue it may effect the balance point in a way you don't like. Then again, you may like that.

Mezz has a cue with a weight system where you can put weight in the forearm and weight in the butt end. That's kind of nice, get the balance you like.
 
I think the cue should be within a range of weight with a balance point in a certain spot and the rest should be on the user.

I have a predator cue with adjustable weight i just dropped the cue's weight by .03 oz it shift the balance point about 1/2" forward.
 
dendweller said:
I guess if you add too much weight to the rear of the cue it may effect the balance point in a way you don't like. Then again, you may like that.

Mezz has a cue with a weight system where you can put weight in the forearm and weight in the butt end. That's kind of nice, get the balance you like.
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At least with any weight bolts I have dealt with, balance point can easily be adjusted by changing the location of the weight. The Vikings I have all have at least some weight but none more than maybe 2"..most closer to 1" long threaded weight and the butt is drilled and threaded 8-10 inches deep. I have "tuned" them to all have the same balance point by using various methods to set the depth of the weight. For most it is as simple as dropping a lightweight wood dowel in the hole and tightening against it to bring the weight more rearward.

Even some silicone alone on the threads will keep it in place midway once it sets up, but I usually use a dowel to avoid any sense of a hollow cavity.

Sent using Tapatalk
 
There are other ways to adjust weight besides weight bolts. In general, I don't favor them. However, If a builder combines an A-joint bolt, a weight bolt in the back, a weight bolt behind the pin, and the pin, he has a lot of places to play with weight.

A player that can tell how a builder got to a certain weight and balance just by hitting with the cue would be an amazing critter! I prefer avoiding certain woods and materials in cues. When the other materials are combined together weight and balance are going to be very close. This natural approach seems better to me but I have a sneaking suspicion it makes very little difference.

Hu
 
logical said:
At least with any weight bolts I have dealt with, balance point can easily be adjusted by changing the location of the weight. The Vikings I have all have at least some weight but none more than maybe 2"..most closer to 1" long threaded weight and the butt is drilled and threaded 8-10 inches deep. I have "tuned" them to all have the same balance point by using various methods to set the depth of the weight. For most it is as simple as dropping a lightweight wood dowel in the hole and tightening against it to bring the weight more rearward.

Even some silicone alone on the threads will keep it in place midway once it sets up, but I usually use a dowel to avoid any sense of a hollow cavity.

Sent using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Yep, I've drilled and tapped butts for 3/8 16 bolts to get the weight more towards the front of the cue. I'd say getting them past 8 or a little more is tough, drilling isn't a problem but the tapping gets tougher the deeper you go.
 
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