Wood buying question.

After doing some more research, i guess quarter sawn is not the best option for this type of wood. Any suggestions? Also, what do i want to look for when i go view this piece?
 
swami4u said:
If one was to buy this slab of wood for future cue making.
How would you tell them to cut it proper, for making one piece
butts. (cored the full length, bored with a gun drill)
http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/flit...7.bubinga/Gallery/album1/detailed/JPEG/08.jpg

I was thinking quarter sawn, 1.5" x 1.5 30" long per piece.

Also were would the best wood in this slab Normally be found?
Outside, or inside?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Before you start you need to do a lot more research.

Quartersawn wood is absolutely the best for cuemaking.

Why you would want to make a one piece cue that is more likely to warp than a spliced cue is also difficult to understand.

Talk to some real cuemakers before you go out and spend money on anything.
 
swami4u said:
If one was to buy this slab of wood for future cue making.
How would you tell them to cut it proper, for making one piece
butts. (cored the full length, bored with a gun drill)
http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/flit...7.bubinga/Gallery/album1/detailed/JPEG/08.jpg

I was thinking quarter sawn, 1.5" x 1.5 30" long per piece.

Also were would the best wood in this slab Normally be found?
Outside, or inside?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Quarter sawing is done when the wood is in log form. That slab has already been cut by whatever method they used. My guess is it was not quarter sawn since I see bark on both sides of the flat part. So just tell them to cut it into 1.5" x 30" squares following the grain as close as possible. Is that Pink Ivory? If so you are going to have to put a pretty large core through it to get the weight down to usable weight. You might want to consider sleeving three or more sections over a stair stepped core so you can leave more lighter core wood in the handle area.
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
Before you start you need to do a lot more research.

Quartersawn wood is absolutely the best for cuemaking.

Why you would want to make a one piece cue that is more likely to warp than a spliced cue is also difficult to understand.

Talk to some real cuemakers before you go out and spend money on anything.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help. I'm not spending money, i'm gathering info. For the idea I've been thinking over for 5+ years.


By asking these questions here, i thought that was exactly what i was doing??? "Asking questions to real cue makers"
 
cueman said:
Quarter sawing is done when the wood is in log form. That slab has already been cut by whatever method they used. My guess is it was not quarter sawn since I see bark on both sides of the flat part. So just tell them to cut it into 1.5" x 30" squares following the grain as close as possible. Is that Pink Ivory? If so you are going to have to put a pretty large core through it to get the weight down to usable weight. You might want to consider sleeving three or more sections over a stair stepped core so you can leave more lighter core wood in the handle area.
Click to expand...


Thanks, its a large piece of Bubinga.
My idea is to have them cut 30" 1.5 x 1.5...then use my core method. Which is now top secret. :D
I am looking for a established cue maker, with a 18" gun drill setup, that could core it accurate, 15" from both sides. I just don't have the money now to buy equipment on a whim. Wish i did, But i think my idea is very solid.

And the suggestion about stepping the core, is spot on! I have the 'kinda' same result in mind, but done a little different.

So anyone with a **ACCURATE** gun drill type setup, that can drill a 30" piece (15" from each side) let me know.
 
swami4u said:
Thanks, its a large piece of Bubinga.
My idea is to have them cut 30" 1.5 x 1.5...then use my core method. Which is now top secret. :D
I am looking for a established cue maker, with a 18" gun drill setup, that could core it accurate, 15" from both sides. I just don't have the money now to buy equipment on a whim. Wish i did, But i think my idea is very solid.

And the suggestion about stepping the core, is spot on! I have the 'kinda' same result in mind, but done a little different.

So anyone with a **ACCURATE** gun drill type setup, that can drill a 30" piece (15" from each side) let me know.
Click to expand...

There are a few but their names are TOP SECRET.

Dick
 
dave sutton said:
im just gonna keep my entire post top secret. just to go with the times.
Click to expand...


Thanks for contributing to the thread! :D
I'm going to keep my opinions about people posting crap in my thread top secret also!

And don't be jealous when my cue design wins the best blind hit test in 2012! :p
Its that good!
 
dave sutton said:
lol. i know your kinda club. dont want any part

esp with the type of hand shaking you guys do!!!

:canoodle::canoodle::canoodle::canoodle:

:rotflmao1::rotflmao1::rotflmao1:
Click to expand...

Thats the final straw Mr. Sutton. I'm not gonna take that crap from you. I don't care if it puts you out of business...I AM GOING TO HAVE TO ASK FOR MY RAPID TOP SANDER BACK!!! Immediately or else.
:D:D:D
 
Varney Cues said:
Thats the final straw Mr. Sutton. I'm not gonna take that crap from you. I don't care if it puts you out of business...I AM GOING TO HAVE TO ASK FOR MY RAPID TOP SANDER BACK!!! Immediately or else.
:D:D:D
Click to expand...

how will i do tips then? oh well the ferrule doesnt NEED to be faced

please stop posting "crap" in this thread...

so i dont get yelled at im not a fan of 1 pc cues at arnie posted before.
 
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