wood filler or putty?

ShootingArts

Smorg is giving St Peter the 7!
Silver Member
Sorta cue related, building my third workshop since Katrina! What wood putty or filler should I use to minimize shrinkage and paint over?

This shop is an addition to the house and it was a bear. Nothing square or level so I have a few gaps here and there! :D :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D

Hu
 
Sorta cue related, building my third workshop since Katrina! What wood putty or filler should I use to minimize shrinkage and paint over?

This shop is an addition to the house and it was a bear. Nothing square or level so I have a few gaps here and there! :D :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D

Hu

I don't know of any cuemakers that use wood putty or fillers. Some use epoxies for a clear sealer. I don't I just use my 1st coat of clearcoat as my sealer...JER
 
I don't know of any cuemakers that use wood putty or fillers. Some use epoxies for a clear sealer. I don't I just use my 1st coat of clearcoat as my sealer...JER

I don't think he is talking about for cues...but for his cue shop...the structural pieces of his building.

Kelly
 
yep!

I don't think he is talking about for cues...but for his cue shop...the structural pieces of his building.

Kelly

Actually not even structural some small gaps between trim and siding or trim and windows. The way the house was built all of the siding goes to the trim not the trim over it so anything out of square or a little short sticks out like a sore thumb. Caulk would work most places but a couple places I would like to use a solid filler. It's not too bad but I want to sell this place in a couple years so I need it to look purty!

I enclosed an open patio with nothing square plumb or level in the original construction so it made life more interesting than it had to be.

Hu
 
What wood putty or filler should I use to minimize shrinkage and paint over?

You may want to consider using a paintable silicone caulking instead of a putty or filler. The silicone caulking will move with the house. Putty or filler usually does not.

If the gaps are real wide use a backer rod to stuff the crack then caulk over it. Backer rods are high density foam and sometime used as insulation to fill voids around windows & doors in construction. Lowes or Home Depot has it.
 
definitely a thought

You may want to consider using a paintable silicone caulking instead of a putty or filler. The silicone caulking will move with the house. Putty or filler usually does not.

If the gaps are real wide use a backer rod to stuff the crack then caulk over it. Backer rods are high density foam and sometime used as insulation to fill voids around windows & doors in construction. Lowes or Home Depot has it.

Definitely a thought. I don't know if it is the heat and humidity in South Louisiana or other reasons, perhaps too much movement, but the paintable silicone caulking doesn't hold paint well at all down here or that has been my experience in the past. Hoping the synthetic siding doesn't move much, it has a bit of cement in it I believe, have to cut it with something more like a brick saw blade than a wood saw blade. I have used some repair stuff from Wal-Mart in the past, Fiberglas Gel or Jelly, it works pretty well but I was hoping for some one part stuff that I didn't have to mix and use in a hurry before it cures. I am using some caulk but looking for something that works a little better and looks a little better for larger gaps.

Thanks for the suggestion, hoping for something other than caulk.

Hu
 
i used to install alarm systems here in atlanta, and there was this one builder in the area that on all his houses, he would fill every seam between studs, every door and window frame seam, basically every nick and crany, etc with greatstuff. that foam in a can at home depot. could always recognize one of his places cause that stuff was everywhere.
 
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We use on our houses something which we call "Acryl" which I guess would
translate to "Acrylic".
Not sure if you could get it locally but we are redoing a house from 76' and we
have used this a lot. It's almost like silicon but it's paintable and can stand a
beating. Professional wood workers use it as well, in stead of wood fillers and
any of those fillers which you have to sand - put on new - sand -put on new........
Sealing corners is easy - lay a strip of this - wipe over with your finger -
wait until dry - paint - done. Small cracks - same procedure :smile:

Kent
 
I'll look into that

We use on our houses something which we call "Acryl" which I guess would
translate to "Acrylic".
Not sure if you could get it locally but we are redoing a house from 76' and we
have used this a lot. It's almost like silicon but it's paintable and can stand a
beating. Professional wood workers use it as well, in stead of wood fillers and
any of those fillers which you have to sand - put on new - sand -put on new........
Sealing corners is easy - lay a strip of this - wipe over with your finger -
wait until dry - paint - done. Small cracks - same procedure :smile:

Kent

Kent,

Thanks, I'll look into that. I used two different DAP paintable caulks today. One I liked OK, one I didn't like at all. I'm mostly looking for something to fill one gap where I should have recut an eight foot long rip. Worst gap anywhere, windows are level, the floor isn't; I found myself with a gap that widens to about a quarter inch or a little more for several feet.


Socks,

I am not a fan of great stuff and my gaps aren't quite that big for the most part, I may get some Gorilla glue to foam fill a few though. Thanks for suggesting foam, gave me the idea.

Hu
 
Sorta cue related, building my third workshop since Katrina! What wood putty or filler should I use to minimize shrinkage and paint over?

This shop is an addition to the house and it was a bear. Nothing square or level so I have a few gaps here and there! :D :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D

Hu

Durhams Water Putty. Mix with water according to directions. When dry it is sandable and paintable and moisture resistant when sealed with primer and paint. Stay put and stays hard but can be brittle when applied to thin over a large area.

Regards,
Stoney
 
Probably too late now by the sound of things, and Perhaps It wasn't a situation where You could have done this, without a picture to go on I could not be for sure, but usually as with finish work, when I have a situation like that, what I do is scribe the piece of wood (in your case the siding) that will be butted up to a wall /(Trim), with a pencil, and cut the profile with a good jigsaw or something. That usually gives me a tight fit against uneven surfaces that can easily be caulked with a minimal amount of product. It's the same trick that cabinet makers use to scribe cabinets to a uneven wall.


I guess at this point You are looking to just fill the gap, and besides the products that have been mentioned here already, one other maybe some bondo or something, but not the regular kind, as it may just crack down the road, the fiberglass stuff with gorilla hair in It may hold up though. Of coarse it is a 2 part with a hardener, and you mentioned wanting something one part. It is however easy to mix and dries somewhat quickly. You can apply It with a putty knife or paddle, and It can be sanded. It has fiberglass hairs in It for reinforcement against cracking.
 
Sounds like it may be the ticket

Durhams Water Putty. Mix with water according to directions. When dry it is sandable and paintable and moisture resistant when sealed with primer and paint. Stay put and stays hard but can be brittle when applied to thin over a large area.

Regards,
Stoney



Stoney,

The water putty sounds like it may be the ticket. I'll try to chase some down.

Greg,

I used to be a first class sheet metal mechanic and prided myself on being able to fit sheet metal to anything that held still and a lot of things that didn't. Fitting paneling and siding was a snap. Thirty years down the road and with the eyeballs and health not what they once were I made lot's of small mistakes. The skill saw or blade I am using sits funny where the blade doesn't line up with the marks on the saw. With the limitation of being in very tight working quarters I was faced with the out of line curf sometimes being on the piece I was using, sometimes on the other piece. Worst fitting I have ever done and eating a lot of silica even with a dust mask, I'm not a happy camper! No more Hardy board for me but I had to use it on this project.

Most of the work isn't terrible, probably only that one place a professional installer wouldn't consider just fine and leave for the painters. I have a bit higher expectations.That and keeping with the original way things were done on the house requiring fitting everything to the edge of trim instead of under it made this project a pain.

All but one spot was caulked yesterday and I will go with the Fiberglas Jelly or similar if I don't find the Durham's Water Putty.

Thanks to Everyone,
Hu
 
Stoney,

The water putty sounds like it may be the ticket. I'll try to chase some down.

Greg,

I used to be a first class sheet metal mechanic and prided myself on being able to fit sheet metal to anything that held still and a lot of things that didn't. Fitting paneling and siding was a snap. Thirty years down the road and with the eyeballs and health not what they once were I made lot's of small mistakes. The skill saw or blade I am using sits funny where the blade doesn't line up with the marks on the saw. With the limitation of being in very tight working quarters I was faced with the out of line curf sometimes being on the piece I was using, sometimes on the other piece. Worst fitting I have ever done and eating a lot of silica even with a dust mask, I'm not a happy camper! No more Hardy board for me but I had to use it on this project.

Most of the work isn't terrible, probably only that one place a professional installer wouldn't consider just fine and leave for the painters. I have a bit higher expectations.That and keeping with the original way things were done on the house requiring fitting everything to the edge of trim instead of under it made this project a pain.

All but one spot was caulked yesterday and I will go with the Fiberglas Jelly or similar if I don't find the Durham's Water Putty.

Thanks to Everyone,
Hu

I've had pretty good luck in wet areas with something like this:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(hofe2n55l3fsy545bffghg55)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=12585
 
Go to your local paint store and ask for "Big Stretch" caulking. You can fill some major gaps with this stuff and it is paintable.
 
Stoney,

The water putty sounds like it may be the ticket. I'll try to chase some down.

Greg,

I used to be a first class sheet metal mechanic and prided myself on being able to fit sheet metal to anything that held still and a lot of things that didn't. Fitting paneling and siding was a snap. Thirty years down the road and with the eyeballs and health not what they once were I made lot's of small mistakes. The skill saw or blade I am using sits funny where the blade doesn't line up with the marks on the saw. With the limitation of being in very tight working quarters I was faced with the out of line curf sometimes being on the piece I was using, sometimes on the other piece. Worst fitting I have ever done and eating a lot of silica even with a dust mask, I'm not a happy camper! No more Hardy board for me but I had to use it on this project.

Most of the work isn't terrible, probably only that one place a professional installer wouldn't consider just fine and leave for the painters. I have a bit higher expectations.That and keeping with the original way things were done on the house requiring fitting everything to the edge of trim instead of under it made this project a pain.

All but one spot was caulked yesterday and I will go with the Fiberglas Jelly or similar if I don't find the Durham's Water Putty.

Thanks to Everyone,
Hu




Hey Buddy, I didn't fall far from that tree myself ;), both My hearing and sight are giving me trouble these days, so I can certainly understand where your coming from. I've never done sheet metal work for a living, but have dabbled in it on projects, and i can appreciate what it takes to do good work, there have been a couple of occasions when I had no problems having a ac place with the proper brakes and equipment make up something up that I had in mind for me, or even make up a couple of patch panels here and there that were a bit more complicated then I could make with what I had to work with. Hope I didn't sound like i was preaching, cause that's not what i was doing, I was just trying to share that method in case You didn't know of It, but I imagine it is one You have used several times in that line of work also. truth Is If it were My own stuff, I usually get more In a hurry, and cut a few corners, so I'd probably be doing the same thing as You are right now:D, someone Else's stuff is another story though. When It comes to my own stuff though function is usually My main concern.

Yeah I always hate when I get a new saw, and the blade doesn't center the same as My previous one, If they are off It's no big deal as long as I know what saw I am using when I take measurements. I usually take that in to account when marking off my pieces, and mark what side of the line I need to cut off of, or if I need to cut the center out cause i knew My measurement was just a hair long. Still it's not brain surgery I know, I guess it's just still etched in My brain from when I was a teenager, and worked with a friend of mine that was a crew chief back then, he was only a few years older at the time, but moved up quick, and started his own business at a young age due to the fact he did such good work. he required us to do framing work as if it was finish carpentry Instead of ruff work as some people would do It. That just kind of stuck with me over the years anytime i was doing carpentry work, as well as other types of work, and Actually has came in handy with metal work as well. With that said everything around My own place is half ass, and falling apart,so there is a distinction between what I do for Myself and they way I do other's work, and so I get that side of It. Just trying to give My input in case it was of any help to ya. With siding I would normally rip those the same as You, even with a skill or table saw, then when I get to the last piece that's up against the trim in your case or an uneven wall, I scribe It and switch to a jigsaw. sometimes i would start with that piece, just depends on the type of situation. Now that's what i would do in a perfect situation, but sometimes it's not worth the extra time and effort I suppose.

Sounds like a lot Of products mentioned here that i haven't used yet, so I may be trying some of them soon Myself:thumbup:

Good Luck with Bubba, hope it turns out nice, if you were in My neck of the woods I would offer to swing by and give ya a hand:smile:

Greg
 
annoyed with myself

Greg,

Definitely nothing aimed at you or anyone else trying to help me. I'm annoyed at myself, once I never made these kind of mistakes. What I am working with is one foot wide lapboard, Hardy board although I am not sure of the spelling. Hard stuff to work with and with an overlap every 11" it's got to be right or look like crap. Got under the gun to finish it up before some storms that were trying to move in and was working when I should have been resting. Most of my gaps were less than a curf and I caulked them. I'd like to replace this piece and go on about my business but that would mean damaging and replacing every piece above it too.

Got myself into a mess and I'm looking for a miracle fix to get back out of a bind I knew better than to get myself in to begin with. When I do something this stupid in the shop I give the piece the aviation test. Not too common but there is the occasional flying object in my shop, usually from the same cause, working when I should be resting.

Hu

PS: My eyes give me problems, my hearing gives everybody else problems! :D :D :D


Hey Buddy, I didn't fall far from that tree myself ;), both My hearing and sight are giving me trouble these days, so I can certainly understand where your coming from. I've never done sheet metal work for a living, but have dabbled in it on projects, and i can appreciate what it takes to do good work, there have been a couple of occasions when I had no problems having a ac place with the proper brakes and equipment make up something up that I had in mind for me, or even make up a couple of patch panels here and there that were a bit more complicated then I could make with what I had to work with. Hope I didn't sound like i was preaching, cause that's not what i was doing, I was just trying to share that method in case You didn't know of It, but I imagine it is one You have used several times in that line of work also. truth Is If it were My own stuff, I usually get more In a hurry, and cut a few corners, so I'd probably be doing the same thing as You are right now:D, someone Else's stuff is another story though. When It comes to my own stuff though function is usually My main concern.

Yeah I always hate when I get a new saw, and the blade doesn't center the same as My previous one, If they are off It's no big deal as long as I know what saw I am using when I take measurements. I usually take that in to account when marking off my pieces, and mark what side of the line I need to cut off of, or if I need to cut the center out cause i knew My measurement was just a hair long. Still it's not brain surgery I know, I guess it's just still etched in My brain from when I was a teenager, and worked with a friend of mine that was a crew chief back then, he was only a few years older at the time, but moved up quick, and started his own business at a young age due to the fact he did such good work. he required us to do framing work as if it was finish carpentry Instead of ruff work as some people would do It. That just kind of stuck with me over the years anytime i was doing carpentry work, as well as other types of work, and Actually has came in handy with metal work as well. With that said everything around My own place is half ass, and falling apart,so there is a distinction between what I do for Myself and they way I do other's work, and so I get that side of It. Just trying to give My input in case it was of any help to ya. With siding I would normally rip those the same as You, even with a skill or table saw, then when I get to the last piece that's up against the trim in your case or an uneven wall, I scribe It and switch to a jigsaw. sometimes i would start with that piece, just depends on the type of situation. Now that's what i would do in a perfect situation, but sometimes it's not worth the extra time and effort I suppose.

Sounds like a lot Of products mentioned here that i haven't used yet, so I may be trying some of them soon Myself:thumbup:

Good Luck with Bubba, hope it turns out nice, if you were in My neck of the woods I would offer to swing by and give ya a hand:smile:

Greg
 
I seen it on use on shafts all the time to fill the dings. What a joke, steam
them out, people.
 
Greg,

Definitely nothing aimed at you or anyone else trying to help me. I'm annoyed at myself, once I never made these kind of mistakes. What I am working with is one foot wide lapboard, Hardy board although I am not sure of the spelling. Hard stuff to work with and with an overlap every 11" it's got to be right or look like crap. Got under the gun to finish it up before some storms that were trying to move in and was working when I should have been resting. Most of my gaps were less than a curf and I caulked them. I'd like to replace this piece and go on about my business but that would mean damaging and replacing every piece above it too.

Got myself into a mess and I'm looking for a miracle fix to get back out of a bind I knew better than to get myself in to begin with. When I do something this stupid in the shop I give the piece the aviation test. Not too common but there is the occasional flying object in my shop, usually from the same cause, working when I should be resting.

Hu

PS: My eyes give me problems, my hearing gives everybody else problems! :D :D :D

Yeah lap would definitely be a bit different, and a lot more caulking.

LOL yeah I was giving everyone those problems the other night at league, They had the music blaring, and several people talking at me at once. I had a serious case of CHS:thumbup:

Greg
 
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