Are you sure they were chick's?Always wondered why the chicks were checking me out in those jerseys I have, one says Gotwood, the other Sternweiner.
Wood shafts
- Thread starter Bluehammer
- Start date
Too funny!! I sure hope so!! Can be difficult at times.
Obviously you don't and that's OK, but there's really no need to be so snarky. I mean, who cares if you care or not?
What are the advantages of Kielwood?
Flakeandrun
Well-known member
Seems a lot stiffer than the maple shaft I was using before. Some people prefer stiff over whip/flex. It's not as dead as all the carbon shafts I have tried before. Seems less prone to scratches and dents than maple. It's naturally lighter due to the torrification process. Could probably argue some deflection related yada yada but I won't. Don't buy into all the tech spiel used to sell the next 'game-changing' $500 purchase. There's all manner of things you could fabricate to be honest. Personally, I like the one I have because it was a free gift, and I have played well with it so far. Feels a nice balance, and playing well since the first rack I popped it on.
Hayakawa, being Japanese, naturally make well finished product. Probably adds to my subconscious enjoyment and perception of ability.
Been using the Prime II 12.0 shaft for about 6 months now, best shaft I have ever owned, Becue arranges their CF fibers at different angles in their butts and shafts to transfer the power of your stroke more efficiently, when I stroke the ball properly I get amazing results, when I don't my cue let's me know right away.
If you use a cue maker that buys heavier blanks, getting a decent weight Kielwood shaft, even over 4 ozs., is easy.
The harder task is locating those cue makers. It took me several months of searching but I located a few cue makers.
Torrefication does lighten the shaft but all you have to do is start with a heavier weight blank. The shaft does not need
to be cored and in fact, none of my KW shafts are cored. And the cue maker doesn’t need to add weight afterward to
produce a heavier version shaft. So let’s get this straight once and for all. A Kielwood shaft can be just as heavy, and
even heavier, than most maple shafts from a cue maker. Kielwood shafts also exhibit less defection than maple shafts.
If you prefer wood shafts, then you should fall in love with Kielwood shafts. Not all cue makers build KW shafts and
verify the weight of the shaft you’re getting before buying it. You don’t have to settle for 3.5 -3.6 oz. shafts unless you
prefer it. Here’s a tip on adding a KW shaft. Just buy a shaft that matches the specs of your favorite pool cue’s shafts.
The harder task is locating those cue makers. It took me several months of searching but I located a few cue makers.
Torrefication does lighten the shaft but all you have to do is start with a heavier weight blank. The shaft does not need
to be cored and in fact, none of my KW shafts are cored. And the cue maker doesn’t need to add weight afterward to
produce a heavier version shaft. So let’s get this straight once and for all. A Kielwood shaft can be just as heavy, and
even heavier, than most maple shafts from a cue maker. Kielwood shafts also exhibit less defection than maple shafts.
If you prefer wood shafts, then you should fall in love with Kielwood shafts. Not all cue makers build KW shafts and
verify the weight of the shaft you’re getting before buying it. You don’t have to settle for 3.5 -3.6 oz. shafts unless you
prefer it. Here’s a tip on adding a KW shaft. Just buy a shaft that matches the specs of your favorite pool cue’s shafts.
None really besides that it's beautiful... I prefer CF, don't feel dead to me.
Agree on the cf. I don't know where the 'feels dead' comments come from. Plenty of feel/feedback. I still use both and can play the same with either.
All this could be true but the few KW's i've hit have all had a funky 'tonk' sound that i can't stand. I would never pay what some KW's are going for over reg. maple or cf.