Wood Test Pic

[hadjcues]

Big Jon,

Ey dude you mentioned about the proper length to diameter ratio re: boring bars.

I need one to bore out holes for the pins 3/8 and 5/16... maybe up to 2" deep that wouldn't give me slack. So what would it be?

The "T" bar that you mentioned, you mean the cut would be on both sides so the distance between the two cutting edges would be the diameter of your desired hole? What would be the ideal ratio for that too?I need one that could bore out stock 12" min. The one I'm currently using to drill holes gives me 0.625" and a little over 0.750 so I gues one that goes into a 0.625 would be best for what I use right now.

Thanks,

hadj

 

[Jon]

Hadj,

I probably would only have one cutting edge. Two would be harder to line up.
The purpose of the "T" would be for strength.
I made one bar (or my dad made it, i'm not sure) that was .500 diameter and could bore a 13-14" hole....... in theory .
It had waaaaay too much flex, for some reason made me think it was a Meucci boring bar .
I am also looking for another boring bar for small holes. I have one now that the minimum bore you can do is a little over .250", and it's really old. It's almost like a collet where you stick the cutting edge down into it, and screw it down tight. I haven't had any push off with that one.
I'll do a search and see if i can find one like it.
I found one at MSC that can do a 2" hole, minimum diameter .230"
But it's over $200 .

 

[hadjcues]

Big Jon,

Had something similar made too... flexed as soon as it hit the stock
That gun drill of yours would be the best way to drill holes. I don't have one yet but I just use a long jabber drill and it cuts smooth. The problem I have is boring that dam long stock to proper size since mine is a bit bigger than .750 which would leave a very thin forearm at the joint area.

Seen those at MSC. Try checking out www.internaltool.com I haven't tried visiting the site for quite sometime but I guess I saw one that I was looking for back then. Less than $200 I suppose. If you do check it out let me know.

Thanks,

hadj

 

[Jon]

I checked it out...
I'll just make me one LOL
We've got some oil hardening drill rod here in different sizes. I'll just turn one down (except for the head) and flaten one side for relief and mill/harden/grind the cutting head.
Maybe.
I'm having fun grinding with my dumore.
Took a .250" thread mill with a 1" LOC, and now it's got a 2" LOC .
For joints/ferrules/ferrule tenons.

 

[Jon]

Well, here is a pic of my first cue...

And here is a pic that my uncle gave me, and it just strikes me as funny.

 

[hadjcues]

bIG jON,

Nice pete there, which reminds me I got some petes lying in the shop. Broken down housecues from my poolhall that I haven't touched in a while... a loong while. I think I could still salvage them out from being firewood.

Nice mat... cooool

Here's a pic from one side of my dry room taken early last year. Still looks exactly the same if I took a pic now. Haven't had time to tinker with those dam woods yet

 

[Cue Crazy]

Hey guys,

Sorry It took so long to get back with you, had to redesign My router mount so my dust hose was not so flimsy, make another shield for It, and then had some cuts to make, so have been busy, still have alot more to do for this session, but too late now, and I have to wait till morning. Between the router & the Vac running at the same time, It sounds louder then a freight train with the brakes on. that thing really screams.

Jon, are those brass rings you used? they look pretty gold in color from the picture, was thinking about using some that color in a design myself. There is no way that thing falls in the same catagory, and besides that, this is a ugliest cue contest here bubba . you gonna have to do better then that, because I actually like the looks of It .

I do know what you are saying about the glue lines in the bacote, those big as_ chainlink rings in mine were bacote, and had glue lines also, funny thing was, when somebody looked at It, they could not even tell, or how I did It, even though those lines were a dead give away, and mapped the method out in pen. With the coco I am working with now looks good on the ring faces, I just thinned those out on the faces when glueing, and seated them by hand like PVC pipe before clamping them, and don't see anything bad on them after trimming, got a slight bit in my billet when i cut slots and glued It up, but hard to see, probably the worse part is my billet did not come out perfectly even to the trained eye. Going to do some smaller diameter slots on the next batch. I don't mind buying choice billet, short blanks, or even using bar butts to make some sneakys, but on some of them, I want them all made by me from all raw materials, even If they look a little unusual, atleast there won't be no mistaking It's all custom I guess.

We live in a high tourist industry area, so alot of people come through from all over, and sometimes I will spot one with an unusual looking cue, strike up a conversation with them, and alot of times find out that a small cuemaker they were buddies with made them, and they would not part with It for anything, they loved that cue so much. upon looking at them closely you might see some glue marks, billet not perfect, or other minor imperfections, but if a nice combo of wood choices, and finished well, seem to have their own charm to me. I guess you might say kind of a rustic look, I kind of think of It as a woody look in my weird way of thinking. Most of them also hit very nice, and are naturally balanced well, so those imperfections seem to have no effect on how they play. On a few designs I have in mind, and working on, this is actually part of the look I am trying to achieve by My material selections, so to me those imperfects only add to the custom look If not too bad, but on other designs they will need to be more perfect in nature, so My material selection and machining methods will be different on some cases. I know of, and have heard of many ways of touching up, and blending before finish is applied to achieve the look of perfection, like one would in a punch out on a painting job, but I am not so sure I will go that way except for material section maybe at first. If that does'nt do It, then I don't think I really have any desire to hide It. Right now My main concern will be how it performs in play. Seems to me the right combinations of materials will provide perfect looking glue lines, along with how you actually glue the face parts, if the machining was done well to begin with that is.

Hadj, you'd be suprised about that coco, don't know what kind of weight and balance you like, or how set you are in them, but that coco butt I am working on now feels really good in the hand so far, it's going to be a thin butt, and does not feel heavy at all, but has a nice solid sounding thud/thump. I think I am going to like this one, as the balance seems to be falling really close on it's own already. I have played with coco for a few years with other things like caps and mods, seems to me that how dense/heavy the wood is can vary from piece to piece or variety to variety of different species. You might get lucky and find a piece that you might get away without coring. I do not know for sure, but from My experience with coco, and using it balanced out in the handle they do seem to weight out different, so you might get away with a heavy butt and large weight bolt, but ofcoarse the cue would probably be heavy, but you could test the forearm like you want for fun atleast. I am sure a cored forearm would be somewhat different feeling though. I got 2 coco butts going almost the same design but seems the darker variety is heavier then the redish lighter color.

Do either one of you know what the best model of foredom to get is By any chance? I want one that excepts the 1/4 inch bits, and has a solid handpiece I can make a clamp or mount for. Also got any leads on a good mini table saw for cutting veneer, composite sheet, and such. My full size table saw seems to want blood from me everything I cut something small on It since i don't have a decent sled built for it yet, and My bandsaw seems to be junk these days LOL, as I need to get It straightened out, ajusted better, and don't even know how much that will help, because I probably need a better one anyway, but definatly need to change the blade because way too large of a tooth pattern on it now. Don't really want a common wet saw, but something with alittle nicer table, that I can easily find good quality fine tooth blades for. My 90's will probably be done on a jig with a router design I have in mind for now, but would still be nice If the table saw cut accurate angles. Thanks Greg

 

[Jon]

Hey guys,

Sorry It took so long to get back with you, had to redesign My router mount so my dust hose was not so flimsy, make another shield for It, and then had some cuts to make, so have been busy, still have alot more to do for this session, but too late now, and I have to wait till morning. Between the router & the Vac running at the same time, It sounds louder then a freight train with the brakes on. that thing really screams.

Yes... it's kinda loud isn't it?
I need to redo my mount/vac. It gets everything but the really fine dust.

Jon, are those brass rings you used? they look pretty gold in color from the picture, was thinking about using some that color in a design myself. There is no way that thing falls in the same catagory, and besides that, this is a ugliest cue contest here bubba . you gonna have to do better then that, because I actually like the looks of It .

Yes, those are "not-so-polished" brass rings.
The ringwork on my next cue might feature some thin (.015") brass rings bordering a phenolic/bocote chain.
That is the "ugliest" cue i've got . Any others were ummm... destroyed.

I do know what you are saying about the glue lines in the bacote, those big as_ chainlink rings in mine were bacote, and had glue lines also, funny thing was, when somebody looked at It, they could not even tell, or how I did It, even though those lines were a dead give away, and mapped the method out in pen. With the coco I am working with now looks good on the ring faces, I just thinned those out on the faces when glueing, and seated them by hand like PVC pipe before clamping them, and don't see anything bad on them after trimming, got a slight bit in my billet when i cut slots and glued It up, but hard to see, probably the worse part is my billet did not come out perfectly even to the trained eye. Going to do some smaller diameter slots on the next batch. I don't mind buying choice billet, short blanks, or even using bar butts to make some sneakys, but on some of them, I want them all made by me from all raw materials, even If they look a little unusual, atleast there won't be no mistaking It's all custom I guess.

Here are some ring billets that might give you an idea

I don't mind using good bar cues. I got around 15 old broken house cues, and i'll only use around 5-7 of them for actual sneakys. The others, i might cue apart and use the rosewood for handles, and maybe the points sections for jump handles or something.

We live in a high tourist industry area, so alot of people come through from all over, and sometimes I will spot one with an unusual looking cue, strike up a conversation with them, and alot of times find out that a small cuemaker they were buddies with made them, and they would not part with It for anything, they loved that cue so much. upon looking at them closely you might see some glue marks, billet not perfect, or other minor imperfections, but if a nice combo of wood choices, and finished well, seem to have their own charm to me. I guess you might say kind of a rustic look, I kind of think of It as a woody look in my weird way of thinking. Most of them also hit very nice, and are naturally balanced well, so those imperfections seem to have no effect on how they play. On a few designs I have in mind, and working on, this is actually part of the look I am trying to achieve by My material selections, so to me those imperfects only add to the custom look If not too bad, but on other designs they will need to be more perfect in nature, so My material selection and machining methods will be different on some cases. I know of, and have heard of many ways of touching up, and blending before finish is applied to achieve the look of perfection, like one would in a punch out on a painting job, but I am not so sure I will go that way except for material section maybe at first. If that does'nt do It, then I don't think I really have any desire to hide It. Right now My main concern will be how it performs in play. Seems to me the right combinations of materials will provide perfect looking glue lines, along with how you actually glue the face parts, if the machining was done well to begin with that is.

YOU live in a tourist area... I live in Mayberry Bubba. You can't beat that.
I've seen some "imperfect" cues in my time. To me, sometimes it adds a little character. But, i want to make every cue as perfect as possible.

Hadj, you'd be suprised about that coco, don't know what kind of weight and balance you like, or how set you are in them, but that coco butt I am working on now feels really good in the hand so far, it's going to be a thin butt, and does not feel heavy at all, but has a nice solid sounding thud/thump. I think I am going to like this one, as the balance seems to be falling really close on it's own already. I have played with coco for a few years with other things like caps and mods, seems to me that how dense/heavy the wood is can vary from piece to piece or variety to variety of different species. You might get lucky and find a piece that you might get away without coring. I do not know for sure, but from My experience with coco, and using it balanced out in the handle they do seem to weight out different, so you might get away with a heavy butt and large weight bolt, but ofcoarse the cue would probably be heavy, but you could test the forearm like you want for fun atleast. I am sure a cored forearm would be somewhat different feeling though. I got 2 coco butts going almost the same design but seems the darker variety is heavier then the redish lighter color.

Do either one of you know what the best model of foredom to get is By any chance? I want one that excepts the 1/4 inch bits, and has a solid handpiece I can make a clamp or mount for. Also got any leads on a good mini table saw for cutting veneer, composite sheet, and such. My full size table saw seems to want blood from me everything I cut something small on It since i don't have a decent sled built for it yet, and My bandsaw seems to be junk these days LOL, as I need to get It straightened out, ajusted better, and don't even know how much that will help, because I probably need a better one anyway, but definatly need to change the blade because way too large of a tooth pattern on it now. Don't really want a common wet saw, but something with alittle nicer table, that I can easily find good quality fine tooth blades for. My 90's will probably be done on a jig with a router design I have in mind for now, but would still be nice If the table saw cut accurate angles. Thanks Greg

Hmmm... It depends on what you want to use the foredom for. I wouldn't use it for tapering.

 

[Cue Crazy]

Yep, those things are loud, my ear is messed up now, and I don't know if It's from that, or cause i am sick with a secondary ear infection LOL. Guess I need to wear some plugs with that thing as well. yeah, does not seem to make much of a difference when i rebuild the shield, I have done It all kinds of ways to tunnel the dust into the vac, but seem to still get that fine dust you mentioned, also get some that seems to roll down each side of the cue away from the vac, and roll off also. I can see little pieces rolling down on both sides, and have the vac tube, almost right on the blade to no avail. I though about more tubes but seems it would be bulky, and the suction would not be as strong.

Think I am going with thinner rings also. That brass looks alot better in your picture then I thought they would in a cue, only reason I am no using them, sure would be alot nicer to cut them I am sure. Wonder If the sealer and finish will keep them looking that way years down the road? I can think of a few designs I would like to use them in. Yes, consider yourself lucky to see mine, It will be destroyed, or reused as well I am sure before said and done .

Yes I like that billet you got there, I am turning some ebony now for making some with. Everything sure does come out nicer in that stuff does'nt It? That's part of what I was saying about proper material selection having a better end result.

I also have a few bar butts here, that I am not sure what I am going to do with yet for sure, but probably going to chop a few, and do a thin first cut on them while running this tapering session I am on.

The town I am in actually was simular to mayberry at one time growing up. One of My grandfathers even bought the little gas station with only 2 pumps that Gomer worked at after WW2 , But far from It these days. I do really Miss It sometimes, but I guess progress has It's other rewards. Things grew pretty fast, and the city will always be behind in trying to catch up with the growth I am sure, as we are listed as one of the fastest growing cities now.

The character thing, I feel the same way, I will always try to perfect all designs, just on some designs when It adds alittle as mentioned, I don't think I'm going sweat it as much If there is one or two minor things after It's built, as long as the cue is solid, straight, and plays as It should. I do not expect It will be a regular thing though, because it's not My nature to atleast try to perfect no matter what the character. tools I can deal with something not so perdy, that gets the job done effectively, but will always try to perfect design on cues, even if that meens keeping them simple.

On the foredom, Will mostly be for cutoff, and threading type stuff, no way would I ever try a taper with It, LOL, does anyone use them for that that you have heard of? Guess It could be done with the large collet, probably why you mentioned it, but not for me, the router is working fine for me for now. I might play around with trimming/undercutting a ring or something to experiement, but nothing as hard as full tapering, but would like to have the large handpiece, and a high rpm variable motor, that does'nt have a bunch of runout. One of the reversable types would nice as well. Basically just something a little more versable then my router, that can easily be seen around It, and get in tight areas better.


Here is a pic of a simple mount for the hose, It works very well for that, and is solidb enough, but need to do something better with the shield, probably make one that covers more area, and custom fit to the mount as a unit that I can slide on and off. the junk shield is just a quicky that I slapped on there real quick to test the mount for the hose. kind of har to see under the shield, but Is basically just a "H" bracket on top under It that holds the hose in place. It's really just something I bolted together but holds the hose really tight and right where i want it, I am working on another mount altogether from some thicker alloy brackets I have for it as well, for holding the router in more of a upright position. going to make that one one piece with the hose running through It.

 

[Jon]

Yep, those things are loud, my ear is messed up now, and I don't know if It's from that, or cause i am sick with a secondary ear infection LOL. Guess I need to wear some plugs with that thing as well. yeah, does not seem to make much of a difference when i rebuild the shield, I have done It all kinds of ways to tunnel the dust into the vac, but seem to still get that fine dust you mentioned, also get some that seems to roll down each side of the cue away from the vac, and roll off also. I can see little pieces rolling down on both sides, and have the vac tube, almost right on the blade to no avail. I though about more tubes but seems it would be bulky, and the suction would not be as strong.

Think I am going with thinner rings also. That brass looks alot better in your picture then I thought they would in a cue, only reason I am no using them, sure would be alot nicer to cut them I am sure. Wonder If the sealer and finish will keep them looking that way years down the road? I can think of a few designs I would like to use them in. Yes, consider yourself lucky to see mine, It will be destroyed, or reused as well I am sure before said and done .

Yes I like that billet you got there, I am turning some ebony now for making some with. Everything sure does come out nicer in that stuff does'nt It? That's part of what I was saying about proper material selection having a better end result.

I also have a few bar butts here, that I am not sure what I am going to do with yet for sure, but probably going to chop a few, and do a thin first cut on them while running this tapering session I am on.

The town I am in actually was simular to mayberry at one time growing up. One of My grandfathers even bought the little gas station with only 2 pumps that Gomer worked at after WW2 , But far from It these days. I do really Miss It sometimes, but I guess progress has It's other rewards. Things grew pretty fast, and the city will always be behind in trying to catch up with the growth I am sure, as we are listed as one of the fastest growing cities now.

The character thing, I feel the same way, I will always try to perfect all designs, just on some designs when It adds alittle as mentioned, I don't think I'm going sweat it as much If there is one or two minor things after It's built, as long as the cue is solid, straight, and plays as It should. I do not expect It will be a regular thing though, because it's not My nature to atleast try to perfect no matter what the character. tools I can deal with something not so perdy, that gets the job done effectively, but will always try to perfect design on cues, even if that meens keeping them simple.

On the foredom, Will mostly be for cutoff, and threading type stuff, no way would I ever try a taper with It, LOL, does anyone use them for that that you have heard of? Guess It could be done with the large collet, probably why you mentioned it, but not for me, the router is working fine for me for now. I might play around with trimming/undercutting a ring or something to experiement, but nothing as hard as full tapering, but would like to have the large handpiece, and a high rpm variable motor, that does'nt have a bunch of runout. One of the reversable types would nice as well. Basically just something a little more versable then my router, that can easily be seen around It, and get in tight areas better.


Here is a pic of a simple mount for the hose, It works very well for that, and is solidb enough, but need to do something better with the shield, probably make one that covers more area, and custom fit to the mount as a unit that I can slide on and off. the junk shield is just a quicky that I slapped on there real quick to test the mount for the hose. kind of har to see under the shield, but Is basically just a "H" bracket on top under It that holds the hose in place. It's really just something I bolted together but holds the hose really tight and right where i want it, I am working on another mount altogether from some thicker alloy brackets I have for it as well, for holding the router in more of a upright position. going to make that one one piece with the hose running through It.

Ohhhh ear troubles. I've got a Sinus Infection so my ears aren't working so well either.
I've worn ear plugs (little foam ones) and i've worn ear muffs. The plugs are better with my full-face respirator.
You might be better off using black phenolic for your rings; ebony is expensive compared to phenolic. Unless you want the cue to be all wood. I want to build some that way, including the joint pin (screw .) That should be fun.
You really should get around to turning your router up to a vertical position. A buddy of mine used his horizontal, and he had trouble getting smooth cuts taking off more than 20 thou. So we made him a new (extremely solid) vertical mount to fit his Deluxe Cuesmith cross slide. And now he is extremely happy .
Is that a 3/4 straight bit in there? I can't tell. I started using a 3 flute 3/8" cutter, and later on switched to the two flute 3/4". I actually like it a little better than the 3-wing slot cutter in a way. It's much safer to.
The foredom should be fine for cutoff and threading. Murray Tucker posted a picture once where he was using one to thread a ferrule tenon i think.
They are not strong enough for full tapering, that is definite. But for anything else? Sure. They are a little costly though.
Has either of you used one of the new Rotozip (By Bosch)???
From the specs i've seen, it's supposed to have more power @ faster rpms than the porter cable router.

If i can find any pictures of my tapering setup (i think JoeyInCali has seen it), we can talk about ugly tools .
But my dad spent around a year building it (a little at a time,) and we could mount a regular toolpost to it, and taper a steel bar if we wanted too. It's many hunks of solid steel .

 

[JoeyInCali]

If i can find any pictures of my tapering setup (i think JoeyInCali has seen it),

That one?

 

[Jon]

That's the one .
No really, if you still have them somewhere, send them back .

 

[Cue Crazy]

Yep, the ear and sinus will take you out in a hurry. Guess It goes with the terroritory . I always catch myself jumping in there without putting on the gear, and regret it afterwards when my nose welds shut . Another reason i need to set up a pit just for tapering, seperate from the main area. If you do your tapering in the same room, you have to wear that stuff all the time no matter how well you fillter it out seems to me. the first room I am setting up when the new shop Is going together is the tapering room, So I am considering a standalone machine for nothing but that .

The rings I will be using both, as you probably know, I do like the all, or mostly wood concept. If It were within my capability of doing a clean job with setup right now, I probably would make one like you mentioned just for the fun, and to see what happened.


Yeah, It's the big boy on there, I have several sizes though. I can get them to cut almost so well that you could probably finish right over it afterwards if I set the angle of the blade just right, kind of how you get a manual tool to cut alittle smoother by changing the angle to the workpiece. A slight bit of relief on back of the cut, but not much at all, It really slight, but I take small cuts also, all My wood is turned slowly anyway, even the tenons for the most part or would have more cues in the works and near finished by now. the exception initial cuts, or rounds I will have to reset the angle, because might sound dumb, but to me the difference in the round piece and tapered piece puts the bit on a different angle automatically, and only takes a slight change to throw it off. With the slot cutter some of that disappears I am thinking. I am setting up a vert also, because the 90 I have cuts off the side, so you can bet I will be trying those slots also . been reading the threads about those. Have some pictures below of a few goodies to pick from for mounting like that, with some minor milling even an somewhat amatuar like me can pull off to perfection. I am always buying up that stuff. check out the huge sliver ones in the back, the full picture was too large, but those things are over 18 inches tall. have a special project in mind for those, but keep thinking of other things to use them with. Just have to wait and see, got plenty of other goodies to go with them, so have some thinking to do.

Yeah Murray's the man for sharing that, the others also, even liked your post grinder, thought of that one myself before, but never tried it. The foredom seems like It sure would be quick and easy to set up, but i don't want to break the bank with this one either. Do want the large newest foredom, but like $300 + for those, I'd settle for a lesser model, i just don't want an underpowered undersized unit that I will junk up after a few uses, but i do like how you can angle that thing and can see all the way around it with ease, and somehow i just don't see the old flexshaft dremel gett-in It for me . I have one and hav'nt even bothered.

Hav'nt tried the rotozip, seen them on some nice cnc units though, so probably the sizzle for cutting cuesickles with How hard you think they are to mount, and could I get away with a fly cutter if they need those types of mounts? because most i have seen were mounted like a dremel. I mounted My dremel to My panto with exaust clamps LOL, good ol Backyard tech-know-how-olodgy, but it works great I don't have a rotary table for My mini, and the rotozip looks bigger then the clamps I have, altough could probably find larger. does'nt damage my dremel, but I don't know if i would want to try it with the roto. would rather mill some mounts out of alluminum when i try one, to do it right instead of going to the exaust zone on It. Guess I will just go back and check out some milling sites, to see what I can get away with on it.

Yeah, I'd love to see some pics if you get them up, thinking about picking one of the beasts up I keep seeing in the papers here, if I run accross a good donor, and making a set of taperbars for it myself. might even throw that in the taper room instead of building one from scratch. ofcoarse hope to one day move a emco type, or if feeling real froggy even a jet up in there as well. Oh well nice to dream anyway. When did I turn into a machine tool nut?LOL I got into to this to build a few cues, and seems as if the machining side just sucks you in on a parallel passion. Think that's called lack of funds

 

[hadjcues]

Greg,

Could you post a pic of that machine you have? Your set up puzzles me having the router in a horizontal position. Mine as you've seen on my lathe is mounted vertically and is a plunge router giving me z axis sorta kinda thing when I taper from the top. It's pretty accurate for strait tapering since the tailstock is dead on and whatever twists in the bed don't affect the taper of the piece. I use this method for dowels that I use for coring.

Big Jon,

Dude how could you post such big pics? How many KB's does it have? And how could you post multiple pics in one thread?

Okay now, about brass rings, has anyone tried using brass shims as ring decos? It could be worked out as venneers too. I'm experimenting on one right now and will post pics when it's done.

Man I got in touch with express cutting tools and they gave me a quote for a boring bar min. hole diameter 0.250 depth 2.0" for $23.00. What dya think?

 

[Cue Crazy]

LOL, nice setup

 

[hadjcues]

ROTOZIP - what about those rotary tools that bosch or makita have that has 1/4 shank in it, would it do the job for threading too? I've been wondering about those if it could do the job. The power specs, i think it could. The foredom is way over my budget. Oh, and I've seen those flex shafts that you could mount into any rotary tool including a router. I plan on mounting one in my tool post and use it for thread cutting for a simpler set up.

Hadj

 

[Cue Crazy]

Greg,

Could you post a pic of that machine you have? Your set up puzzles me having the router in a horizontal position. Mine as you've seen on my lathe is mounted vertically and is a plunge router giving me z axis sorta kinda thing when I taper from the top. It's pretty accurate for strait tapering since the tailstock is dead on and whatever twists in the bed don't affect the taper of the piece. I use this method for dowels that I use for coring.

Big Jon,

Dude how could you post such big pics? How many KB's does it have? And how could you post multiple pics in one thread?

Okay now, about brass rings, has anyone tried using brass shims as ring decos? It could be worked out as venneers too. I'm experimenting on one right now and will post pics when it's done.

Man I got in touch with express cutting tools and they gave me a quote for a boring bar min. hole diameter 0.250 depth 2.0" for $23.00. What dya think?

Sheldon did some cue points simular, he posted in ask the cuemaker. Did you see those? Pretty cool.


The lathe that setup is on a hightower as jon mentioned. pictures were large, seems as if my camera is spitting out large picture files again, should have left the quality settings alone. I'll show you when I get another, but there is probably a picture of one on here somewhere. The trick to what you mention seems to be ajusting all the gibs correctly, and setting the angle of the cut really perfect atleast on the final cuts, again I take slow small passes so there is not alot of twist IMO with the router bit angle set correct. I just did a really small dia butt, and it spun as true as could be with no vibration, or twist i could tell of, believe me I have not always been that good, just seems as If I have learned the machine, like any other. Again I am going to build a small vertcal mount for it, sort of in z fassion as you mentioned, but will still cut off the side. I actually have a powered z axis, but too large for this one. would take a massive powerfeed to drag that thing down the bed anyway, and would need converted to manual unless going cnc. The ebony piece that is mounted in the pic is a square I am just indexing and kocking the corners off before turning. there is not enough material to be worth saving for the size i want, so just knocking them off to octagon. Just hitting those while i got it setup, because i will run out of rounds If i don't slip some of those in there every once and a while when setup to taper. the lathe does have taper bars and spring loaded slide, so i don't offset the tailsock on that one. The tapering machine i was thinking of building for myself could probably cut off the topside of the taper, or side also if you use a slot cutter, from the way I am thinking of it you could switch out if you did'nt have to pick from between either taper bar angle . either way I have several different machines now, and will have several more lathes with different setups alltogether, have stuff i can't even setup Yet, don't know what taper setup i will settle with for a stand alone, but that's half the fun. finding out

do they have a picture of that boring bar up anywhere?

 

[Cue Crazy]

ROTOZIP - what about those rotary tools that bosch or makita have that has 1/4 shank in it, would it do the job for threading too? I've been wondering about those if it could do the job. The power specs, i think it could. The foredom is way over my budget. Oh, and I've seen those flex shafts that you could mount into any rotary tool including a router. I plan on mounting one in my tool post and use it for thread cutting for a simpler set up.

Hadj

I saw one that runs on air I think on ebay for cheap, suppose to turn like 50,000 LOL, thing looked mountable but probably not the way to go on this one. does bosh make a flex shaft tool by any chance? You know something becoming clear to me is, it sure would be nice to have something quiter that turns high rpm's.

 

[hadjcues]

Greg,

I'm not pretty sure if there's something quiter than a router out there that would do the job it does. Reason why some have done table saw mach for tapering. It's more quieter

I have a black and decker that's similar to a dremel with 30,000 rpm. I use it for doing inlays and shaping. The chuck is just 1/8 so too small for those threading bits. I also have that Turbo Carver thing that runs on air 450,00 rpm that I plan to set up fro a panto. You could check it out at www.turbocarver.com (sure wish I just got that Foredom instead)

 

[Cue Crazy]

Greg,

I'm not pretty sure if there's something quiter than a router out there that would do the job it does. Reason why some have done table saw mach for tapering. It's more quieter

I have a black and decker that's similar to a dremel with 30,000 rpm. I use it for doing inlays and shaping. The chuck is just 1/8 so too small for those threading bits. I also have that Turbo Carver thing that runs on air 450,00 rpm that I plan to set up fro a panto. You could check it out at www.turbocarver.com (sure wish I just got that Foredom instead)

Which did you get the machine version? and when you gonna do some srimshaw with that bad boy? I have seen the B&D versions, was thinking of trying one, are they as good as the multipro in your opinion? they are priced better and I need another.

would like to build the table saw version one day, but could build the router version with less needed to add with what I have already, so will try it first. It is going to be housed in a seperate room, so will be alright as long as i can make myself wear plugs when in there. i will probably try to slightly sound deaden that room also, so not so loud in the main part. More then likely when i do buy the next lathe It will be used for threading larger tenons. I have a smaller one with a thread counter on It, that i can might can do ferrules on for now with the foredom. Ofcoarse I have everything to hand tap already, but would rather try grinding them. It all takes time. little here little there, sure you know the game yourself.