Wraps and Joints

T

tonyk

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I'm going to order a new cue soon, and I just had a couple of quick questions.

I was just wondering is there any advantage of a uni-lock over the regular steel joint, besides the time it takes to put the cue together?

Also, I know I want a leather wrap, because of the look/feel... Is the one single piece of leather better or worse than the "stacked" leather wrap? (I think "stacked" is the term).

Or are both of my questions just pure personal preferance?
 
tonyk said:
I'm going to order a new cue soon, and I just had a couple of quick questions.

I was just wondering is there any advantage of a uni-lock over the regular steel joint, besides the time it takes to put the cue together?

Also, I know I want a leather wrap, because of the look/feel... Is the one single piece of leather better or worse than the "stacked" leather wrap? (I think "stacked" is the term).

Or are both of my questions just pure personal preferance?
Click to expand...

I have used the uni-loc on a few of my early cues and they seem to work well. I don't think that they work any better than a regular 5/16-14 pin so I quit offering them as a option.

Looks wise the stack wraps are a nice touch and should last at least as long as a standard leather wrap. They are harder to install so expect to pay a little more.
 
Murray Tucker said:
I have used the uni-loc on a few of my early cues and they seem to work well. I don't think that they work any better than a regular 5/16-14 pin so I quit offering them as a option.

Looks wise the stack wraps are a nice touch and should last at least as long as a standard leather wrap. They are harder to install so expect to pay a little more.
Click to expand...

Are stack leather wraps strands of leather and put the same way as linen, with turning the cue on the lathe?
 
Murray Tucker said:
I have used the uni-loc on a few of my early cues and they seem to work well. I don't think that they work any better than a regular 5/16-14 pin so I quit offering them as a option.
Click to expand...

What about a radial pin or 3/8-11 pin, is it any different from the standard pins?
 
Murray Tucker said:
Yes and no. They are a strip of leather about 1/8" wide. You wrap them on like linen but you have to do it rotating the lathe by hand. Once it is on you sand it even and flush with the cue.

Go here http://www.tigerproducts.com/stackleatherwrap.htm for more info.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Btw, saw your site... great pics of your shop!
What's that motor you use to run your threader? Looks like a dremel encased in steel or something :D
 
((VH)) said:
Thanks! Btw, saw your site... great pics of your shop!
What's that motor you use to run your threader? Looks like a dremel encased in steel or something :D
Click to expand...

That is a foredom (www.foredom.com) flex shaft machine. 1/3 horse power and 30,000 rpm's. Kind of like a dremel on steroids. It will take up to a 1/4" shank tool and you can mount in in all kinds of positions. I could not live without it.
 
((VH)) said:
What about a radial pin or 3/8-11 pin, is it any different from the standard pins?
Click to expand...

Radial pins are fine but you are forced to tap the hole and I don't tap anything that I don't have to.

A 3/8-11 is a flat bottom design that uses the minor diameter to locate the shaft.

I think the cuemaker is the most important part of a joint pin. If they don't put it in right or cut the threads right then it won't work properly. I don't care what kind of joint it is.
 
Thanks for the input. I really like the look of the Stack leather wrap, but I was worried about it unraveling, like the Irish Linen wraps do. But if they last just as long as the regular leather wrap, then that's fine.

Also, I was just checking out that webpage and saw the "Laminated Cue Tips," any experience with those? I've tried all sorts of tips on my cue, and actually I like the hard Triangle's the best. I played with a Moori tip for a little while, but I didn't really see what all the hype was about.
 
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That is a foredom (www.foredom.com) flex shaft machine. 1/3 horse power and 30,000 rpm's. Kind of like a dremel on steroids. It will take up to a 1/4" shank tool and you can mount in in all kinds of positions. I could not live without it.
Click to expand...

Tha's a very powerful motor. Any recommendation for any model? I need one to cut threads and another one for use in cutting points... i wanna put my routers to rest :D

I think the cuemaker is the most important part of a joint pin. If they don't put it in right or cut the threads right then it won't work properly. I don't care what kind of joint it is.
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I agree!!!
 
((VH)) said:
Tha's a very powerful motor. Any recommendation for any model? I need one to cut threads and another one for use in cutting points... i wanna put my routers to rest :D

My memory failed me. It is 1/4 hp and 20,000 rpm. Mine is a "H" series motor and a 44HT hand piece. I built several different attachments for mounting it into the lathe.

I have never cut points with a router so I can't be of much help in that department.
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tape

Murray Tucker said:
Radial pins are fine but you are forced to tap the hole and I don't tap anything that I don't have to.

A 3/8-11 is a flat bottom design that uses the minor diameter to locate the shaft.

I think the cuemaker is the most important part of a joint pin. If they don't put it in right or cut the threads right then it won't work properly. I don't care what kind of joint it is.
Click to expand...

Murry, you can grind the threads with a router for radial pins.
I made a tool to turn cut the radial threads. You just need to grind the tool to fit the radial pin, set your threading gear, reverse out and off set your tool to fit the depth.. It's not a tough job.

My pin is a not 3/8th as most think it is. It's .348 dia., 11.455 pitch, with inside and outside radiuses top and bottom with flats sides and bottom. Very simular to a radial, and works well. Been using it for over 30 years.
Let me know if I can help any of you guys.
blud
 
Wow, that's one expensive tool.
I wonder if these tools can be used to cut/mill points.
Mount one handpiece on a panto and whale on.
They claim to have very low vibration and high tourque.
We created our threading tool too so they can mount on the tool post.
They're dead on nuts and are variable speed so we can thread delrin, buckhorn and all kinds of woods.
 
tools

Joseph Cues said:
Wow, that's one expensive tool.
I wonder if these tools can be used to cut/mill points.
Mount one handpiece on a panto and whale on.
They claim to have very low vibration and high tourque.
We created our threading tool too so they can mount on the tool post.
They're dead on nuts and are variable speed so we can thread delrin, buckhorn and all kinds of woods.
Click to expand...

Joey, these tools have nothing to do with mills and points. You say expensive, no way. About $20.00 bucks each. Not at all expensive.Just build a tool simular to a Mini-boring bar, and a small ground welded insert, to match your threads....Crank it up,.........
I thread all my woods and phenlic, [ don't use delrin] at 30,000 RPM's.Cuts cleaner that way. Your threading feed rate has a lot to do with the out come of your threads....Maybe you need to come take a few lessons?
blud
 
blud said:
Joey, these tools have nothing to do with mills and points. You say expensive, no way. About $20.00 bucks each. Not at all expensive.Just build a tool simular to a Mini-boring bar, and a small ground welded insert, to match your threads....Crank it up,.........
I thread all my woods and phenlic, [ don't use delrin] at 30,000 RPM's.Cuts cleaner that way. Your threading feed rate has a lot to do with the out come of your threads....Maybe you need to come take a few lessons?
blud
Click to expand...
Our threads are fine Blud.
We thread Delrin at much lower speed b/c they melt.
Cut woods at close to 30K.
I don't see 20 dollars on those Foredom. Unless I'm really farsighted.
We use heavy duty die grinders.
Adjusteable speed ones are expensive but got them at a great price at the show.
 
Joseph Cues said:
Wow, that's one expensive tool.
I wonder if these tools can be used to cut/mill points.
Mount one handpiece on a panto and whale on.
They claim to have very low vibration and high tourque.
We created our threading tool too so they can mount on the tool post.
They're dead on nuts and are variable speed so we can thread delrin, buckhorn and all kinds of woods.
Click to expand...

Yes the foredom tool is expensive. The reson I own it is for deburing and polishing aluminum valve bodies. It just happens to work great for threading. Easier to mount in my lathe than a router. I'm not sure how it would work for heavy duty cutting opperations like points or tapering.
 
Murray Tucker said:
Yes the foredom tool is expensive. The reson I own it is for deburing and polishing aluminum valve bodies. It just happens to work great for threading. Easier to mount in my lathe than a router. I'm not sure how it would work for heavy duty cutting opperations like points or tapering.
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Thanks MT.
The handpiece does sure look much easier to mount.
And a lot lighter than a router or grinder. And less bulk too.
I hope Foredom does make a stronger piece someday for heavier operations.
I can see how they would be of use on a panto. It'll be easy to take out the handiece in case the cutter breaks.
I know there's one model of sorts made in Europe but it costs like 3K.
One local cuemaker supreme here uses one. His points' tips are around 7.5K.
I like that.
Thanks again.
 
Routers

You might want to look at Makita's trim router. They are cylindrical on the o.d with out any threads or anything .It is not hard to fabricate a mount for either vertical or horizontal routing.I use a 1/2" router for milling points and turning operations and use either trim router or die grinder for threading.One caution on die grinders though make shure you use one with rear exhaust as you don't want to spray oil on your wood.
 
Canadian cue said:
You might want to look at Makita's trim router. They are cylindrical on the o.d with out any threads or anything .It is not hard to fabricate a mount for either vertical or horizontal routing.I use a 1/2" router for milling points and turning operations and use either trim router or die grinder for threading.One caution on die grinders though make shure you use one with rear exhaust as you don't want to spray oil on your wood.
Click to expand...
Yeah, but how loud is the Makita, and how fast :D

Thanks,

Jon <<<--- NEED MORE (QUIET) POWER!!!
 
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