WTB V-Grooved Blanks

[TC Mabe]

I am interested in buying some V-Grooved blanks that I could add my own veneers to.

I do not have a setup for cutting the grooves myself yet.

Interested primarily in 4 point grooves to start with. Preferably curly maple.

Please PM me with any information on pricing or where I can find the blanks !

Cheers !

T.C. Mabe


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[deadbeat]

I am interested in buying some V-Grooved blanks that I could add my own veneers to.

I do not have a setup for cutting the grooves myself yet.

Interested primarily in 4 point grooves to start with. Preferably curly maple.

Please PM me with any information on pricing or where I can find the blanks !

Cheers !

T.C. Mabe


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

How do you plan on putting the veneers in the grooves? You have to miter them or stack them on the point blank? You have to square the point blank perfectly. Just a few things to consider before you buy a nice piece of curly maple and it doesn't turn out the way you like it. Actually I think I read that you have a mid America repair lathe. Do yourself a favor, take the money you would buy this blank with and buy a router(7301 Porter Cable), router bracket (Chris and Todd sell them), 1 inch 90 degree cutter (Chris sells these) and offset your tailstock and cut the groove. If you have a small bore headstock without indexing Chris sells the pulley to make it indexable. It would be money much better spent. Just my opinion speaking from experience.

 

[TC Mabe]

I do have a Mid America repair lathe with a large bore 24 index headstock and a 48 inch bed with 42 inch rack gear. I was originally looking into the tail stock offset method for taper turning, but I had dismissed it because it sounded tricky with either adding a lathe dog into the picture or using an offset boring head in the tail stock. I agree with your comments though since this is stationary work in an indexed position. Thanks for the great advice ! I will use your suggestion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[deadbeat]

I do have a Mid America repair lathe with a large bore 24 index headstock and a 48 inch bed with 42 inch rack gear. I was originally looking into the tail stock offset method for taper turning, but I had dismissed it because it sounded tricky with either adding a lathe dog into the picture or using an offset boring head in the tail stock. I agree with your comments though since this is stationary work in an indexed position. Thanks for the great advice ! I will use your suggestion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You need neither one. Offset your tailstock around 1/2 or more, depending on how thick you want your points and how far you want them to run. Do this, get a scrap 2/4 and rip it into a couple 14" inch pieces. Turn them down to around 1" and 1.2 inches on other end by offsetting the tailstock. When you chuck them up to cut the points, don't chuck too tight and barely put the wood into the chuck, maybe around 1/8 inch or a little better. This will allow you to hold the wood but since your not putting much in the chucks it won't stress it as much. Practice this until you get the scrap wood to have points grooves like you want. Measure how much you offset your tailstock and what size wood you used and you should be able to repeat it on the curly maple.

 

[desi2960]

300 dollar router table

i bought a router and router table for 300 bucks, and a 1 1/4 inch 90 degree router bit.

removed the stock fence and every thing else on the table top. make a wood jig that has screws that clampd the wood and centers it over the router bit.

hardest part was getting the depth and length of the cut lined up perfect, but once its set, just make 4 cuts and youn have a perfect cut groove blank.

 

[deadbeat]

To get around the binding , use the ball like in the post below.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=232867
I had never read this post until now, so I thank you for getting me to educate myself further.

 

[TC Mabe]

Thank you again for the detailed response. I really appreciate you taking the time to give such a thorough answer ... I am compiling my shopping list based on your suggestions !
Cheers !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TC Mabe]

To get around the binding , use the ball like in the post below.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=232867
I had never read this post until now, so I thank you for getting me to educate myself further.

I saw this after my previous reply .... That is an insanely better looking option ... I will definitely incorporate the ball method into my experiment !

Thanks again for the knowledge share !

Cheers !

 

[TC Mabe]

i bought a router and router table for 300 bucks, and a 1 1/4 inch 90 degree router bit.

removed the stock fence and every thing else on the table top. make a wood jig that has screws that clampd the wood and centers it over the router bit.

hardest part was getting the depth and length of the cut lined up perfect, but once its set, just make 4 cuts and youn have a perfect cut groove blank.

Thanks for sharing this idea ! I am going to try the tailstock offset and ball mount path for now, but I may have a use for modifying a router setup down the road and I will keep this in mind !

Any pictures of your setup would be appreciated ...

Cheers !