Yet another Predator Shaft Question

A

accdealer

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
A year ago, while playing at the Capital City Classic in Philadelphia, my partner cracked the ferrule on his Predator shaft. I told him that he was shit outta luck because the Predator ferrules are a proprietary thickness and material that needed to be replaced by Predator. The man at the cue repair booth concurred with my statement but added his own opinion. He said that he has been doing a modification to Predator Shafts that alot of his customers seem to like. Let me describe what he said. First he cuts the tennon off, and then he drills out the shaft until he reaches the hollow section. Then he glues in a dowel that fills the hollow section and leaves some of the dowel for the new tenon. Once that is done, he puts an ivory ferrule on the shaft and then the new tip, and the modification is done. My partner didn't have this done, but it has had me wondering for a while.

We all know that the Predator Shaft construction techniques are basically marketing ploys to convince people that they can play better with a Predator Shaft. However, they do significantly reduce cue ball deflection. Having said that, it is my understanding that it's not the 10 piece pie construction that reduces deflection, but yet the hollow area at the top of the shaft and the paper thin ferrule that actually reduces the deflection. Therefore, if you were to fill the hollow area with wood and add an ivory ferrule(ivory ferrules and I understand it, deflect the most out of any other material), wouldn't you just have a normal shaft that just happens to be laminated? Or is it possible that this modification retains the low delflection characteristic of the Predator Shaft and potentially gives the cue a better feeling hit? Has anyone else ever heard of a mod like this?

I cannot remember who the man was who was doing cue repair at this tournament, it wasn't Ted Harris, but I can't remember exactly who it was.

Please share your thoughts and opinions.
 
attachment.php

The ferrule on top is a Pred. Notice the orange foam and thin "tenon".
Once you cut the tenon, there is nothing to drill.
The bored hole is about .250 in diameter and about 4"+ deep.
If one wants to plug it up, a thread can be ground or carefully tapped, glued then plugged up with an extra long dowel. The top then becomes the tenon.
Then a ferrule can be installed.
The shaft will then have a better feel and more deflection.
Better feel b/c a harder ferrule and not being hollow all the way to the cap of the ferrule gives better feedback imo.
More deflection because the end now has more mass/weight.
No reason why a good player can't compensate for a little more deflection but some do like that very low deflection. Some like the better feel and durability of other ferrules ( like LBM and Ivor-X). Pred ferrules get dirty and scratch up fast.
The shaft end will vibrate a little more too if it matters.
 
Thanks for the response Joe. I always enjoy reading your opinions. Over the last 12 months I must have lost track of some of the details of the mod, thanks for clearing up the specific steps in the procedure that are necessary.

Just a few things to pick your brain with.

1. To your knowledge, is this a popular mod?

2. Have you ever done this?

3. Why spend 200ish on a Pred. Shaft, why not just use a convential shaft?(loaded question)

4. Is it because the pred will still retain some of it's low deflection properties? and that those properties may not be present in other shafts?

5. Should I do the legwork and try to hunt down the person who first explained this mod to me and have him do it if I want to try the mod, or should I just go to someone local like Scot Sherbine at Proficient Billiards? It sounds pretty straight forward and not anything that can't be accomplished by an experienced cue repairman. Am I mistaken in this thought?
 
The predator shaft has a hole in it around 6" deep. The weight of the last 6" of shaft is the biggest factor in deflection.
I have always suggested that people send their shafts back to predator for ferrule replacement, but do offer the option of putting a more standard style ferrule on them. I've done quite a few, and no one has complained that the hit changed drastically.
One good method I've found is to make a ferrule with a threaded tenon on it, then simply tap the hole in the predator and screw the new ferrule/tenon right on the shaft. If very light material is used, the hit changes very little.
 
Sheldon said:
The predator shaft has a hole in it around 6" deep. The weight of the last 6" of shaft is the biggest factor in deflection.
I have always suggested that people send their shafts back to predator for ferrule replacement, but do offer the option of putting a more standard style ferrule on them. I've done quite a few, and no one has complained that the hit changed drastically.
One good method I've found is to make a ferrule with a threaded tenon on it, then simply tap the hole in the predator and screw the new ferrule/tenon right on the shaft. If very light material is used, the hit changes very little.
Click to expand...
What size tap do you use to tap the hole a 5/16-18 ?
 
Qualified people have Predator ferrules. If you plug the hole and use another ferrule you just added deflection and voided the warranty. It is not a ploy but a proven, playable option. It is not for every one but it most definately works.
I believe the person doing repairs at that event was Guito.
 
Last edited:
Michael Webb said:
Qualified people have Predator ferrules. If you plug the hole and use another ferrule you just added deflection and voided the warranty. It is not a ploy but a proven, playable option. It is not for every one but it most definately works.
I believe the person doing repairs at that event was Guito.
Click to expand...
You probably mean Guido Orlandi, Mike.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top