Your favorite pin & why?

WTD14 said:
Where did I say anything about feel or hit? I like 3/8x11 because I like the extra weight near the joint. Radial because almost every after market shaft is available in a radial pin. Are you satisfied now?
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Radial pins have more volume than 3/8 modified and are thus heavier when made out of the same material. So for forward weight without additional considerations I would say they are mathematically king all else the same.

I use 3/8 10 as the standard on my cues. I like the threads into wood.
 
3/8 10 modified or standard
radial

I am certain I can't tell blind folded which is which. I am also crazy enough to say they feel different when shooting the same shot one after the other a few times.
 
purple4 said:
3/8 10 modified or standard
radial

I am certain I can't tell blind folded which is which. I am also crazy enough to say they feel different when shooting the same shot one after the other a few times.
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I'm more concerned with the feel of the weight distribution. Not the feel of the hit.
 
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Coos Cues said:
Although they can, many don't. Thus the interchangeable butt weight bolt. If you see this offered in a cue, move on.
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I was asked by PM what I meant by this so I am going to copy and paste what I said. This is just my personal opinion and your mileage may vary.

Butt heavy cues although bringing the total weight to what you might think you want is not the proper way to balance nor end up with the weight you want. IMO total weight is less important than how the cue is balanced. I see a lot of production cues and sadly too many customs built way too light with the theory that you can always go up in weight but not down. But a completed cue only has an option for butt weight, not a balanced approach further forward. I get the feedback a lot that even if a cue is a half oz or even a full oz heavier than the person thought that they wanted, that somehow it feels "good". This is balance. Maybe I'm just too picky but that's my own personal feelings on the subject. Hope this clarifies it a little.
 
Coos Cues said:
I was asked by PM what I meant by this so I am going to copy and paste what I said. This is just my personal opinion and your mileage may vary.

Butt heavy cues although bringing the total weight to what you might think you want is not the proper way to balance nor end up with the weight you want. IMO total weight is less important than how the cue is balanced. I see a lot of production cues and sadly too many customs built way too light with the theory that you can always go up in weight but not down. But a completed cue only has an option for butt weight, not a balanced approach further forward. I get the feedback a lot that even if a cue is a half oz or even a full oz heavier than the person thought that they wanted, that somehow it feels "good". This is balance. Maybe I'm just too picky but that's my own personal feelings on the subject. Hope this clarifies it a little.
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I jump around 17-19 oz because the weight distribution is always different. I've even had a 15.5 oz I used for 1p for a bit. But that's borderline ridiculous.

One good trick I learned was using a 29" or 30" shaft. Once you get that extra weight on the end with all that leverage. You can really make up for weight distribution easy. Not perfect but a good option.
 
Coos Cues said:
I was asked by PM what I meant by this so I am going to copy and paste what I said. This is just my personal opinion and your mileage may vary.

Butt heavy cues although bringing the total weight to what you might think you want is not the proper way to balance nor end up with the weight you want. IMO total weight is less important than how the cue is balanced. I see a lot of production cues and sadly too many customs built way too light with the theory that you can always go up in weight but not down. But a completed cue only has an option for butt weight, not a balanced approach further forward. I get the feedback a lot that even if a cue is a half oz or even a full oz heavier than the person thought that they wanted, that somehow it feels "good". This is balance. Maybe I'm just too picky but that's my own personal feelings on the subject. Hope this clarifies it a little.
Click to expand...

When I grab a house cue I always pick the lightest one I can find because the heavy ones are always way too butt heavy. My playing cues range from 16.2oz to 20oz, all of them feel the same in my hand. I have three old Hueblers (well, I have 5 or 6 but only 3 are mentioned here), two are 20oz and one is 17.7oz. The 17.7oz is my current playing cue, I played with one of the 20oz cues for two decades but the other 20oz cue is WAY to forward balanced for me (but I'm working on that). Both 20oz cues have SS collars and 5/16 x 18 stock Huebler joints.

Point being - like you, weight isn't the most important thing, balance point is (shaft taper is also higher up on the list than weight).
 
lfigueroa said:
I am going to guess that if I gave someone three different cues -- with their joints masked up -- no one would be able to tell me what kind of pin any of the cues had.

Lou Figueroa
just a guess
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That's a good test and I would fail. But I would be able to tell you where the balance points is.
 
lfigueroa said:
I am going to guess that if I gave someone three different cues -- with their joints masked up -- no one would be able to tell me what kind of pin any of the cues had.

Lou Figueroa
just a guess
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yep that test has been done
cept blind folded the players
they couldnt tell one from the other
 
purple4 said:
3/8 10 modified or standard
radial

I am certain I can't tell blind folded which is which. I am also crazy enough to say they feel different when shooting the same shot one after the other a few times.
Click to expand...
You can tell which is radial and which is 3/8 10? Unless you can change the pin on the same cue magically between shots this is impossible to prove or know for that matter. Color me sceptical
 
I like Uniloc because after I lose horribly, I want as few seconds as possible between the money ball dropping and me walking out the door.
 
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