your paying too much for cues

[Bishop]

There’s an old adage, “You get what you pay for”. It became a known adage for a reason. “Playability” is subjective, to each individual it means something different. Quality is not subjective, and top quality handcrafted cues, almost all of them will stay straight and play well and last you for a lifetime where a $300-500 cue won’t. Your mileage may vary.

I don’t care how anyone spends their money. I’ve had experience with expensive cues warping as well as cheap cues.

I’ve got a handful of 20-30 year old cues, including shitty house cues and cheap Chinese shit that stills rolls straight.

In my experience cost isn’t nearly the determining factor in longevity as much as how you store and care for your property.

 

[SeniorTom]

I don’t care how anyone spends their money. I’ve had experience with expensive cues warping as well as cheap cues.

I’ve got a handful of 20-30 year old cues, including shitty house cues and cheap Chinese shit that stills rolls straight.

In my experience cost isn’t nearly the determining factor in longevity as much as how you store and care for your property.

I know some guys who hang their cues by the tip end to keep them straight.

 

[GoldCrown]

I don’t care how anyone spends their money. I’ve had experience with expensive cues warping as well as cheap cues.

I’ve got a handful of 20-30 year old cues, including shitty house cues and cheap Chinese shit that stills rolls straight.

In my experience cost isn’t nearly the determining factor in longevity as much as how you store and care for your property.

Buy what you like and enjoy it. Too much fun...

 

[MattPoland]

300 tops for a strictly top of the line made and hitting playing cue.

ill go to 500 for some that have to add things.

anything over that is fluff, or name brand value that has nothing to do with its playing.

go ahead and blast me or agree

I know. But some entity in this pool industry is getting my money. And that trickles into some events, some players, some support staff. It all goes to pool. And I can afford it. And the equipment has some fun aspects to it. It’s not bad. It’s not junk. It plays. And I feel good about it.

 

[shooter_Hans]

$100 iLucky is one of the best cues out there. I play with one right now full time for reasons such as winning money with a cheap cue. Plus I like them dollar for dollar and I want to prove these are capable equipment. Sort of my imagination taking over like I’m a brand ambassador for it. LOL

I’ve played with many hall of fame builders. Owned, borrowed and tested many. Not all of them are great. They may look fantastic but they shoot like a $100 cue. Which is a good thing. It means they hit good.

The best playing cue is still an original Predator sneaky Pete from the early 00’s in my opinion. You don’t have to try hard.

There are more involvement with my $100 cue so it helps me get back to basic fundamentals such as good stroke.

 

[Mensabum]

Tend to agree 'somewhat', some people just like nice shit so they buy hi-end cues. That's cool so why would you or anyone else give a shit how they spend their(not 'there') money?????? I could play just fine with a cheapass Chinese sneaky but i wouldn't get the 'cue chubby' my classic Jensen gives me.

I'm glad others have this prob!!

 

[Mensabum]

Here's a few I see all the time
strait vs straight
breaks vs brakes

I want one that breaks straight and straight breaks. I've got a ton of epoxy I'm not using.

 

[Mensabum]

Lolol. I had it built to play with it. Why get a stick to your specs with a design you drew up yourself to just be a case queen? Mine even has a little blood stain on the linen wrap because a dog bit me outside the hall one day before playing. But I also won’t take it to Vegas(APA) or to any shady halls. Nobody has had a cue stolen at the one I frequent. The tables are away from the bar and there are usually a lot of regulars in there.

I hope your luck runs true. My Scruggs disappeared from a decent hall I'd been playing in for years. People now know the value of these and it becomes a cost and effect type thing. Willing to chance grabbing one they otherwise wouldn't consider.

 

[Willowbrook Wolfy]

I hope your luck runs true. My Scruggs disappeared from a decent hall I'd been playing in for years. People now know the value of these and it becomes a cost and effect type thing. Willing to chance grabbing one they otherwise wouldn't consider.

There are a few others with higher end cues there too. The only guy I know that had a cue stolen, well it was cues(ouch!) had a few stolen by UPS not at the hall. All $1000+

 

[straightline]

$100 iLucky is one of the best cues out there. I play with one right now full time for reasons such as winning money with a cheap cue. Plus I like them dollar for dollar and I want to prove these are capable equipment. Sort of my imagination taking over like I’m a brand ambassador for it. LOL

I’ve played with many hall of fame builders. Owned, borrowed and tested many. Not all of them are great. They may look fantastic but they shoot like a $100 cue. Which is a good thing. It means they hit good.

The best playing cue is still an original Predator sneaky Pete from the early 00’s in my opinion. You don’t have to try hard.

There are more involvement with my $100 cue so it helps me get back to basic fundamentals such as good stroke.

I have a nice blonde Lucky. Was like 45, 50 dollars when I got it. The shaft insert was disappointing but not relevant. It hits well enough. I shelved it for stuff with better front and back tapers.

 

[ddg45]

300 tops for a strictly top of the line made and hitting playing cue.

ill go to 500 for some that have to add things.

anything over that is fluff, or name brand value that has nothing to do with its playing.

go ahead and blast me or agree

You're correct to a certain extent. One of the best players at my local pool hall will beat you all day long and plays with an old Players cue that might cost $125. On the other hand, anyone is perfectly OK to spend whatever they want, and that is what the cue is worth to them. I would never pay more than $800-$900 and agree you certainly can get pro level equipment (I have a sneaky Pete Mezz) for well under that, but for those that want to spend more, I don't judge.

 

[fjk]

I don’t care how anyone spends their money. I’ve had experience with expensive cues warping as well as cheap cues.

I’ve got a handful of 20-30 year old cues, including shitty house cues and cheap Chinese shit that stills rolls straight.

In my experience cost isn’t nearly the determining factor in longevity as much as how you store and care for your property.

Yes, this is obviously true. When I made my comment about good quality / expensive cues being better at staying straight, I meant assuming care and storage being equal.

 

[fjk]

I know some guys who hang their cues by the tip end to keep them straight.

There is zero evidence or data that shows this is more effective than a few other methods.

I have personally been told by very famous, top cue makers, different things about the best way to store cues (i.e. laying down vs standing up).

 

[fjk]

Yes, this is obviously true. When I made my comment about good quality / expensive cues being better at staying straight, I meant assuming care and storage being equal.

On the subject, what is a "taper roll"? I think lots of folks call small wobbles "taper rolls". I'm going to out on a limb and say there are no kinds of tapers that cause "rolls / wobbles". It's warp.

 

[Bishop]

Yes, this is obviously true. When I made my comment about good quality / expensive cues being better at staying straight, I meant assuming care and storage being equal.

Most competent cue makers, even hobbyists cue makers like myself take small passes and let the wood rest in between cuts. It’s pretty obvious which pieces will need to be discarded. Coring can solve problems as well.

I suppose if someones wanting to debate that or split hairs they’d argue that patience while building is a cue is standard practice not a unique skill or extra expense in materials.

 

[SeniorTom]

There is zero evidence or data that shows this is more effective than a few other methods.

I have personally been told by very famous, top cue makers, different things about the best way to store cues (i.e. laying down vs standing up).

I never said it was most effective, but gravity has a tendency to help straighten out a slight warp.

 

[Colonel]

There is zero evidence or data that shows this is more effective than a few other methods.

I have personally been told by very famous, top cue makers, different things about the best way to store cues (i.e. laying down vs standing up).

Name the cue makers that told you storing them laying down is better.

 

[Bishop]

Name the cue makers that told you storing them laying down is better.

I’d rather lay a cue on a table than at an angle on a rack. If the full length of the cue is supported how is that worse?

 

[fjk]

Name the cue makers that told you storing them laying down is better.

The three cue makers I was referring to were Paul Drexler, Barry Szamboti and Bill Stroud. I cannot recall exactly who said what, but I believe two said it didn't matter and one said laying flat. It was a lot of years ago but when I purchased cues from those three, I always asked. I didn't write down who said what once I learned it was subjective and/or didn't matter.

Intuitively, upright is better, but there are arguments against upright too. I can tell you from personal experience (I swear I'm not bullshitting), I store all my cues lying flat in hard friction cases. I've been doing that for about 40 years. I have a real lot of cues and all my higher end cues and shafts are DEAD straight. I've had really good luck laying them down.

 

[Grimper]

There's no person worse than one who questions what other people spend their own money on. Ok, maybe vegans