Testing Kicks and Banks on Diamond Brand Tables, and How to Adjust Aiming

I mentioned this in another thread this week. I played on a Diamond 7 and 9 footer at Fat Cats in Asheville, NC last week. Ran my usual kicking and banking tests similar to DrDave. Corner 5 too. Both tables banked true, like my 7-foot Olhausen at home or the Gold Crown at my Pool hall. Tables are likely five years old, cloth somewhat worn.

I had the same result on a 7-ft Diamond in Massachusetts three years ago. Brand new table and cloth. Oddly, I haven’t played on a Diamond that banks short yet. Wonder why.

small tight pockets in one pocket good or bad?

I played on a 1 pocket GC3 at a room in Philly 2 weeks ago. It was triple shimmed to 4.5" pockets (or possibly extended rails, I'm not sure). It was the main action table front and center. This used to be the "standard" for one-hole play.

I played 5 9 ball sets on it. Both me and my opponent were playing out of our minds and running out like water. It might have been the best I played in a year.

What struck me is when a ball brushes the rail a bit, it still goes on this table. On a Diamond Pro-Cut 4.5" pocket, with its different facing angles and deeper shelf, it rejects those same balls. (I already knew this, but this particular 9 ball session really reinforced it).

Going from a 4.5" GC to a 4.5" Diamond already increased the pocket difficulty by a large amount. Now that Diamonds are the standard table, taking them down to 4", 4 1/8", or 4 1/4" pockets for one pocket play is needless imo. It makes it TOO difficult.
Doesn’t necessarily make the game more difficult it just changes it. It makes pocketing more difficult. It makes taking balls out easier. It makes playing safe up table easier. It makes scratching less frequent. Etc

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