Any help identifying this cue

Most things that are painted "jet black" have a pretty decent amount of blue pigment in there too because it makes it look "blacker." Without that blue pigment it'll look more like a dull charcoal black. Not dull as in "matte" but dull as in "greyish." It'll still look black but it won't look good.

Have you ever accidentally spilled bleach on a black shirt? For some reason there's orange in there. I work with color daily but I don't get to geek out talking about it that much because there's only a couple of us who deal with it.
Yep. The darkest black car I've ever owned actually had some blue flecks to it. Darker than the typical pearl black on some of my other cars.

I've never spilled bleach on a black shirt, but I understand the orange. I have now and then spilled a bit of bleach on my dark blue bathroom mat, and it comes out orange to pink spots. Very close to orange.

Yep, color I understand, especially black. Built and modified a lot of golf clubs, and there was the task of putting paint fill in stampings. To do it right, you had to find the best. Lot of nerd talk on this thread, I have to admit.

Take all of the weight out of your break cue

Dr.Dave on break cue weight:

“Now, for a break cue, the optimal weight for maximum cue ball (CB) speed will depend on your arm anatomy (the size and weights of the different parts of your arm), muscle physiology (e.g., fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle fiber dominance), technique, and timing. The only way to find out the optimal weight for sure is to experiment. Cue weight is not just a question of physics. Physiology also comes into play. Some people have more fast-twitch muscle fibers than others. Because of this, cue weight selection can be a very personal thing. Also, some people might have better accuracy stroking a heavier cue at a slower speed than a lighter cue at a faster speed. Also, some people might prefer a lighter or heavier cue just because of the way it feels, regardless of how better or worse the performance might be. Also, if your break cue is a combination jump-break cue, you might want a lighter weight since jumping can be easier with a lighter jump cue. Again, the choice of break cue weight is not a simple matter of physics.

Concerning the physics, what determines the CB speed is the cue’s mass and the cue’s speed at impact with the ball, and CB speed is what we are striving for (in addition to accuracy). For a given cue speed, if the cue has more mass, the CB will go faster; and for a given cue mass, if the cue has more speed, the CB will go faster. Both factors (cue speed and cue mass) are important. Some people can generate more breaking power with a lighter cue, and some can generate more with a heavier cue. A detailed analysis of the physics of how CB speed varies with both cue mass and speed (and tip offset from center, and tip efficiency) can be found in TP A.30. Breaking power is related to the square of CB speed, and CB speed is directly related to cue stick speed, so if you can increase the speed of your break stroke while maintaining accuracy, it can result in a big improvement in break effectiveness. And if you can also use a heavier cue, and maintain the same or similar cue speed, you can also increase breaking power; although, increases in cue weight don’t have as large of a benefit as increases in cue speed (see details below).

Cue and tip efficiency can also affect breaking performance; although, some people might not like the feel of the hit with a really hard and efficient tip (e.g., phenolic). Based on the numbers in TP A.30, changing from a medium-hardness leather tip on a typical playing cue (typical COR = 0.73) to a phenolic tip on a break cue (with a COR as high as 0.87), can increase breaking power by 17%! For comparison purposes (see the end of TP A.30 for details), if you could increase your cue speed by 10%, the cue ball speed would also increase by 10%, and the effective increase in breaking power would be 21%. And for a given cue speed, if you could increase the cue weight from 17 to 22 oz (while maintaining the same speed), the cue ball speed would increase by 6.3%, which would correspond to an effective increase in breaking power of 13%. So with a dramatic increase in cue weight (17 oz to 22 oz), the benefit is not as large as one might expect, even if the heavier cue could be stroked at the same speed as the lighter cue (which is usually not the case).

As mentioned above, the optimal cue weight for each individual, providing the best combination of cue speed and weight to produce the best breaking power, is a very personal thing. The only way to determine the optimal weight is to experiment. And even if you are using the optimal-weight cue and are generating the most cue speed possible, none of that will matter if you are not using good technique to get a square hit on the lead ball or if you are getting too much unintentional sidespin or excessive CB hop. You should only use as much speed as you can control.

A good analogy to pool break cue weight selection is baseball bat weight selection. A lighter bat can be swung faster, but a heavier bat has more mass. Some players can generate more ball speed (and distance) with a heavier bat (e.g., Babe Ruth), and some do better with a much lighter bat (e.g., Barry Bonds). An excellent webpage dealing with baseball bat weight effects can be found here: Bat Weight, Swing Speed and Ball Velocity. Notice the ball speed vs. bat weight graphs about 3/4 down on the webpage. They are very flat at the optimal weight, implying bat weight doesn’t really make that much difference in the range of typical values. This effect should be similar with break cues. If you are in your preferred weight range, an ounce more or less shouldn’t make much difference.”

Never thought I would be one to say this, given the length of some of my postings... but TLDR 😂
When the coffee kicks in I come back to this.

Take all of the weight out of your break cue

People with shoulder problems, would be smart to go a Light Break Cue, less wear & tear on shoulders.
Interesting, I actually feel more stress on my shoulder currently. Not debilitating or worthy of an "ouch" by any means. But noticed a little twinge. Probably from lack of familiarity, and the extra speed through the ball taking all the ligaments and whatever by surprise.

Any help identifying this cue

Yep, agree. I've seen Magenta many times and was not necessarily aware of whether it's real or not. Images of purple are hotly debated, it seems. I've had what I consider purple shirts before. There had to be some mixtures in the dyes to get them done. Visual impression is a very interesting subject. And, since everybody's eyes are different, the interpretations are limitless.
Most things that are painted "jet black" have a pretty decent amount of blue pigment in there too because it makes it look "blacker." Without that blue pigment it'll look more like a dull charcoal black. Not dull as in "matte" but dull as in "greyish." It'll still look black but it won't look good.

Have you ever accidentally spilled bleach on a black shirt? For some reason there's orange in there. I work with color daily but I don't get to geek out talking about it that much because there's only a couple of us who deal with it.

The Texas Open is free to stream on Youtube

Wasn't PoolActionTV doing all the streams? Did they kick PATV to the curb? Or am I misremembering? Just wondering...

-td
They did in the past. This is the first year for Skinny Bob's to it themselves. Backwards Billiards helped them put together their streaming setup. He and his wife stream and commentate around Texas and have streamed from Skinny Bob's many times in the past.

Any help identifying this cue

I wonder how colors might impact pool play.

Balls. Cloth.

35 years ago one of the tables I played on had salmon cloth. Everybody hated it. It was in an "upscale" location and the cloth was picked by an interior designer.
That's another thing I find fascinating about color... It absolutely affects our emotions and behaviors. We can get emotionally attached to things being a certain color (orange five ball, anyone?) And before anyone says something like, "Well, I like an orange five ball because that's what I'm used to..." Alright. That's a part of it. But if you could choose between pictures of a purple five ball or an orange five ball to hang on your wall, which would you choose? Keep in mind, you're never going to play with this ball because it's just a picture. So you're never going to mistake it for a four ball mid runout. Ninety nine percent of us would choose the orange one because we have at least a little bit of an emotional attachment to it based on tradition. The same goes for green cloth. I've gotten used to Tournament Blue. But I'd still put Simonis Green on any table I got because it reminds me of when I was younger and all the fun I had at the pool rooms when that was the only thing you'd ever really see.

Mid America vs Cuesmith lathe

First off I respect both companies and I’m sure they are both great. Just wondering if there are any significant differences or advantages and also if the tools are interchangeable. Like the automatic tip shaper on the cuesmith looks awesome. Can that be mounted on the MidAmerica ?? If I did go Cuesmith I would be looking at the midsize with large bore headstock. Either of the MidAmerica lathes would work. I plan on starting with tips and ferrules and shaft cleaning at first. Changing tips on both house cues and 2 piece.
I bought a MidAmerica. It's a great lathe. That said part of me wishes I had gone with the Cuesmith. Not that there is anything wrong with MidAmerican, it's just that Cuesmith you can get a taper bar setup. If this is important to you and you don't want multiple lathes then this is important. Cuesmith also has thread cutting options.

Any help identifying this cue

Oh, I agree. But I work in color every day and know it's magenta. A lot of people aren't familiar with that name and call it hot pink or similar. Just adding some cyan to it will definitely get it closer to what we typically think of when we think of purple. But, believe it or not, adding black will just make it look dirty. The only way to get to that rich deep royal purple we think of would be to add something like Reflex Blue or 072 Blue to it along with some actual red. But in all honesty, if I wanted to make purple I wouldn't even include this color. Its light value is way too high and you'd end up fighting it with darker blues to get it dark enough to be purple. Plus, every ink company I've ever worked with makes plain old Pantone Purple as a base color so that's a pretty good place to start.
Yep, agree. I've seen Magenta many times and was not necessarily aware of whether it's real or not. Images of purple are hotly debated, it seems. I've had what I consider purple shirts before. There had to be some mixtures in the dyes to get them done. Visual impression is a very interesting subject. And, since everybody's eyes are different, the interpretations are limitless.

Any help identifying this cue

I believe a bit light for our conception of purple, but if cyan and black are added, I believe that gets closer to purple, or at least what we think it is.
Oh, I agree. But I work in color every day and know it's magenta. A lot of people aren't familiar with that name and call it hot pink or similar. Just adding some cyan to it will definitely get it closer to what we typically think of when we think of purple. But, believe it or not, adding black will just make it look dirty. The only way to get to that rich deep royal purple we think of would be to add something like Reflex Blue or 072 Blue to it along with some actual red. But in all honesty, if I wanted to make purple I wouldn't even include this color. Its light value is way too high and you'd end up fighting it with darker blues to get it dark enough to be purple. Plus, every ink company I've ever worked with makes plain old Pantone Purple as a base color so that's a pretty good place to start.

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