Question about setting up table for lathes.......

DiamondDave

Yes, I rather like Snake!
Silver Member
I just "inherited" a Matco tool box. I am going to put my lathes on top of them but I need some recommendations as to what top to use. The top of the box is 51" wide by 30" deep. I have a Porper Model A lathe that I use for tips, ferrules etc and the other lathe is a PSI Woodworking wood lathe that I use for cleaning shafts, sanding etc. 30" give me plenty of depth for both lathes because I can work from both sides but I am going to have to go out to about 66" width for the top. Mounting will not be a problem my question is what would be the best surface to use? I was thinking of a maple butcher block top but I figured I check with the experts first. I even considered making a top out of exotic wood but I don't the $$$ or the proper equipment to plane it flat.

I appreciate everyones input.

Thanks
 
Cut down a solid core flush door. Frequently found for free at my local landfill swap shop. New ones are pretty cheap too.
 
if you go to home depot or loew then have some pretty good plywood for $5-$10 sheet and home deopt will cut to spec for free. maybe double it up but for 20$ cue you cant beat it. easy

i build 4'x8' tables for my shop for like 40$
 
I have 6 lathes & one is a Model A. It sits on a 2x4 frame & a piece of 1/2" plywood. The other lathes are heavier & I used 2 pieces of 1/2"...JER
 
Go cheap

Go cheap on the bench tops like the other guys said. Spend the rest of your money on shaft wood.

jason
 
i have 6 lathes & one is a model a. It sits on a 2x4 frame & a piece of 1/2" plywood. The other lathes are heavier & i used 2 pieces of 1/2"...jer
exactly like i built but...

6 treated 4x4 cut 36'' 4 corners 2 in middle

took 1/2'' 4x8 plywood cut in half longways.

Framed out with 2x4 around top and 8'' from ground

1 pc plywood for top and 1 pc for shelf underneath

perfect table 4 ft deep and 8 ft long 40$ and all the wood was cut to spec for me
 
exactly like i built but...

6 treated 4x4 cut 36'' 4 corners 2 in middle

took 1/2'' 4x8 plywood cut in half longways.

Framed out with 2x4 around top and 8'' from ground

1 pc plywood for top and 1 pc for shelf underneath

perfect table 4 ft deep and 8 ft long 40$ and all the wood was cut to spec for me

If only cues were that easy to put together!
 
???

exactly like i built but...

6 treated 4x4 cut 36'' 4 corners 2 in middle

took 1/2'' 4x8 plywood cut in half longways.

Framed out with 2x4 around top and 8'' from ground

1 pc plywood for top and 1 pc for shelf underneath

perfect table 4 ft deep and 8 ft long 40$ and all the wood was cut to spec for me

Doesn't that make a 2' x 8' bench?

Dave don't forget if you are going to do this and mount back to back lathes you will need a place to put your supplies/ bottles. Make it a comfortable working height.
 
Dave don't forget if you are going to do this and mount back to back lathes you will need a place to put your supplies/ bottles. Make it a comfortable working height.

I did think about that. I have a nifty idea for that too! We'll just have to see if I can make it. :idea:
 
Load it up and bring it to the shop.... Have tools can build.. Monster Garage style.

John
 
I have 6 lathes & one is a Model A. It sits on a 2x4 frame & a piece of 1/2" plywood. The other lathes are heavier & I used 2 pieces of 1/2"...JER



I used 2x4's on a few of Mine too. I have a corner bench that runs the full length of one wall and 3/4 of the length on the other wall. I basically laid them out, and built the top frames like a 29" tall wall would be framed, (on the ground). I then leveled & screwed a strip of have inch ply to the long wall studs in the shop to use as a ledger board to hold the inside of top's frame level while I screwed It into the studs of the wall, then I chopped some legs out of 4x4's to support the front of the bench. Then ran a level the other way, and screwed the legs into the corners of My top frame from 2 sides. On the other wall the top wasn't as long so more manageable, and I didn't need a ledger to hang It, I simply butted the end of that top up with the front of the other side and screwed the frames together. That really made the frames stronger, but the 3/4 ply I used for the top, made the whole thing rock solid. Not portable at all, but It's super sturdy. That bench only holds a deluxe on the long side, and a small milling machine on the short side, It's stronger then I need for the equipment mounted, but I have much confidence that It would hold much anything I would decide to put on them. I have another shorter bench with My panto setup, and It's basically the same framed top as the others. but has a 1/2" ply top instead of 3/4, It only holds a panto, but would be enough to hold the somewhat lighter equipment i have on the stronger bench.

The 3/4" ply was what I had, and was straight. It seems to be about the same as doubling 1/2", but the main thing is either will make a sturdy bench if built well. I would have doubled them up too if I hadn't had that 3/4 to waste on something like this anyway. I'd probably use some kind of adhesive if doubling up though, just to take advantage of the extra strength of a lamination.

Anyway to sum up, I agree with you, a single sheet of 1/2" over a framed top will get someone by fine with the lighter weight cue specific or repair lathes, but yes, if you start getting into the ton ranges in weight It's gonna take 3/4 on up to feel confident, depending on just how heavy the machine is. The sturdier the better in My book. Better to over build a bench for what It will be holding instead of under doing It, and have It sag to one side or worse, come crashing down one day.;)

Building on those carts like that though to hold the lathes mentioned shouldn't take anything terribly thick, if there's a good frame in place. A wood frame would probably work fine too, but I have a small welder, so If there wasn't already a easy way to mount a table surface, then I would probably weld a frame from straight and angle steel or something to hold some thick or doubled up plywood, and bolt or weld the frame to the cart. Might be better to bolt though, If needed could back one side of the bolt with a steel plate so It doesn't deform or distort the sheet metal on the cabinet Itself.

Also A while back there was someone selling a really thick top material to use on router table and such, It may would be perfect for this, may be a hair costly though. I'll see if the stuff is still listed on there, and if so will post here.

Greg
 
I would suggest Baltic plywood. You can get it at Lowes. It is the same type plywood that Hightower makes his deluxe base out of. Very durable, hard to warp. Especially with the overhang. I would suggest 3/4 for durability and use the 2x4 frame as others have suggested. Works great for me.
Just my 2 cents
 
I used to have a porper model b I still have the custom metal casket i had made out of 2' square stock and bent flat sheet metal so i could remove 3\4 of the cover and side to work on the lathe for shows and tournaments. Then put the cover back on 4 padlocks and walk away safe for the night. I also put wheels on the bottom to roll it away and with the square tubing you can slide 2x2 into them to use as handle to pick it up and put onto a rollaway tool box.

I'll try to get to it in the garage if any one wants pictures to design one or maybe want this one.

Craig
 
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