Mineral Spots on Shaft

I wouldn't "drill-and-fill" as it may compromise the structural integrity of the shaft or alter the way it plays, depending on the size of the spot you drill out. There are some "bleaching" products out there that guys use, but they are as much a white stain that cosmetically covers the spot as much as they actually bleach the spot away. In this case, over time, as the "bleach" wears off, the spot reappears. Bleach-white shafts are for collectors and cues that aren't ever used. The best "player" shafts are typically darker and have occasional spots/blemishes, IMO.
 
ragbug74 said:
I wouldn't "drill-and-fill" as it may compromise the structural integrity of the shaft or alter the way it plays, depending on the size of the spot you drill out. There are some "bleaching" products out there that guys use, but they are as much a white stain that cosmetically covers the spot as much as they actually bleach the spot away. In this case, over time, as the "bleach" wears off, the spot reappears. Bleach-white shafts are for collectors and cues that aren't ever used. The best "player" shafts are typically darker and have occasional spots/blemishes, IMO.
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Thanks for the reply.

I had no idea that something bleached would eventually return to it's old color. I always thought it was a chemical reaction that was permanent.

Lou Figueroa
 
If bleached with wood bleach it will not return to an original color. Thats nonsense. So is the thinking that brown and sugary shaftwood is inherently better than clear, bright shaftwood. You can take that to the bank.

Martin





lfigueroa said:
Thanks for the reply.

I had no idea that something bleached would eventually return to it's old color. I always thought it was a chemical reaction that was permanent.

Lou Figueroa
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Please give me all the old, straight grain, yellow, mineral streaked shaft wood you have. No, really. They play like crap. Seriously. :)

Scott
 
ScottR said:
Please give me all the old, straight grain, yellow, mineral streaked shaft wood you have. No, really. They play like crap. Seriously. :)

Scott
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I don't believe that anyone has ever said that yellow, mineral streaked and sugar filled shaft wood is inferior in playability to clean shaft wood, however, some feel the need to slam the clear wood, which, in my opinion, plays just as good. Proper care and timely processing of fresh cut Maple has a great affect of it's appearance at a later date. Those who specialize in shaft wood know what needs to be done to keep the wood clear and take efforts to accomplish this. Saw mills who don't specialize in shaft wood don't need to take the extra efforts to keep the Maple it's natural white color as many who use the maple for furniture, flooring and veneers would rather have the darker, warmer colored Maples.

Dick
 
I really think the 'dealer' sold you a second out of a batch of seconds. Talk to Royce.
Dave
 
jazznpool said:
If bleached with wood bleach it will not return to an original color. Thats nonsense. So is the thinking that brown and sugary shaftwood is inherently better than clear, bright shaftwood. You can take that to the bank.

Martin
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Thanks. That's what I thought -- about the bleaching.

So is "spot" bleaching, with a wood bleach, doable/practical for a small mineral spot on a shaft?

And, not to get into a shooting war here or anything, but I was told the same thing about the "dirtier" shafts being better, by a pretty reputable source: Ernie Gutierrez

Lou Figueroa
 
i personally like the "dirtier" shafts. that is too close the the tip IMO.

i say call royce or whom ever you got it from and exchange it

to me that shaft should never be sold. not for full price anyway
 
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