New Cuttlefish tip system

conetip

conetip

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
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[/IMG]Here are some pics of my new Cuttlefish tip system.
The advantages are,
the convenience of changing tips.
You can try the same tip on different cues, assuming they also have the system on their cue.
See how your cue reacts to a particular tip.
You can compare similar tips with a different radius or profile.
Shaft is no longer required for a tip instalation after system is installed.
A playing shaft can be used as a break shaft.

Quite a few good players have tried it at the Valley Forge expo and liked it.

Neil Lickfold.
doc@hnpl.net
 
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The system locks in on a taper cone seat.
The pin tool is used to attach and undo the tip holder.
This has been necessary as some laminated tips have shared while attempting to
remove the tip holder.
The system is also Patent Pending
Neil
 
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conetip said:
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The system locks in on a taper cone seat.
The pin tool is used to attach and undo the tip holder.
This has been necessary as some laminated tips have shared while attempting to
remove the tip holder.
Neil
Click to expand...

seems like there could be some noise in there.
 
Kind of goes against the newest low deflection technology of having a low front end mass on your shaft.
 
Varney Cues said:
Kind of goes against the newest low deflection technology of having a low front end mass on your shaft.
Click to expand...

It goes against everything I believe about ferrule/tip performance.

I am sure those who want every new gimic will jump on it like bears on a lollypop.

It is not new; Palmer did about the same thing many years ago with his ferrule/tip combo. That wasn't the best idea either, IMO.
 
Varney Cues said:
Kind of goes against the newest low deflection technology of having a low front end mass on your shaft.
Click to expand...


The insert and the tip holder weigh 3 grams, about the same as a 1 inch or so ferrule. If you install as a ferruleless cue, it is about the same weight.
With Carbon it is lighter, but I have not yet finished the longevity tests yet.
You are correct, when installing into a convetional ferrule the tip end mass is increased by up to 2.1 grams.
However, when playing with it, there is a greater difference from tip choice and shaft type than the tip mass alone.
Neil
 
I looked at Neil's system in Valley Forge. I told him it would be a hard sale for the Americans. But then I tried it out and was suprised how well it played. His carbon fiber shaft cue looks very unusual, but plays really good.
 
the connection looks good and Neil is extremely sharp,i bet they play better than you think.
 
Neil, I am sure that you have a good system; you seem pretty sharp in the machinery area. However, I agree with Chris; this seems like a tough sell.

One situation that comes to mind is for a "test hit" cue where you can have a set of 5 or 6 "standard" tips that you could let the customer try. This would work for either a cue repairman or a custom builder.

I'm not going to carry a half-dozen shafts to let a customer test hit different tips (on different shafts), but I might consider one shaft with interchangeable tips (especially if the customer can change them out without my assistance.)

How quickly and easily do they change out? It is one more thing to offer, but will it be worth the effort?

Would you mind elaborating on the system, and perhaps the cost?
 
Screw-on tips? I guess it might work, but people are leery of those seeing as how many crappy slip-on tips and screw on tips are sold at walmart and are awful. Those will probably give your product, which is probably superior, a bad rep.
 
Screw on tips are not new. William Wethered sold the "Screw-Lock" system for over 12 years before selling the whole thing to Sure Shot Billiards in Kennewick, WA over a year ago.

Bob
www.bdcuesandcomix.com
 
jcommie said:
Screw-on tips? I guess it might work, but people are leery of those seeing as how many crappy slip-on tips and screw on tips are sold at walmart and are awful. Those will probably give your product, which is probably superior, a bad rep.
Click to expand...

Your wording is pretty much the same as I told him. His product is very superior to the the old screw on tips, but those old cheap cues left a bad taste in people's mouths for screw on tips. Neil will be able to sell his product to those who test it and want to play with it, because it is a good system. But getting cuemakers to use it will take a lot of work.
 
Wouldn't allow any metal near my cue balls. Tip wears down and you can chip the ball. like the old brass ferrules.
 
I could see where the version mounted inside the ferrule could be very advantagous to room owners. I'd stick with the standard ferrule looking version and add a nylon insert like on lock nuts. You could then market them to Level Best, Dufferin, Cuetec etc for use on one pc. house cues.
I'd also consider other softer materials for the screw even though common sense says any material on any cue will tear cloth or damage balls if the tip falls off.

Terry
 
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spktur said:
Wouldn't allow any metal near my cue balls. Tip wears down and you can chip the ball. like the old brass ferrules.
Click to expand...

The alloy for the tip holder is softer than a cue-ball.
In fact you could use a blank tip holder for a break tip, but that is not allowed under rules of play.
As far as a tip failing and the insert damaging the cloth, is no different to most of the harder ferrule materials available today.
We have only had 1 situation of a tip coming off a tip holder- it was a phenolic jump tip. It came off when the cue was dropped onto the floor.
As far as leather play tips go, to date , none have come off the tip holders.

For orders and pricing, please either pm or email doc@hnpl.net

I have not yet finished the installation instructions.

As Chris has mentioned, until you try it, you will find it difficult to see how it can hit well.
The tips take about 8 to 10 seconds to change out and play with another tip.
The important difference is that these are taper seating and locking tips.
The screw does not locate or orientate the tips, it is just the clamping mechanism.
Neil
 
conetip said:
The alloy for the tip holder is softer than a cue-ball.
In fact you could use a blank tip holder for a break tip, but that is not allowed under rules of play.
As far as a tip failing and the insert damaging the cloth, is no different to most of the harder ferrule materials available today.
We have only had 1 situation of a tip coming off a tip holder- it was a phenolic jump tip. It came off when the cue was dropped onto the floor.
As far as leather play tips go, to date , none have come off the tip holders.

For orders and pricing, please either pm or email doc@hnpl.net

I have not yet finished the installation instructions.

As Chris has mentioned, until you try it, you will find it difficult to see how it can hit well.
The tips take about 8 to 10 seconds to change out and play with another tip.
The important difference is that these are taper seating and locking tips.
The screw does not locate or orientate the tips, it is just the clamping mechanism.
Neil
Click to expand...

Neil,
I think you have a system which could do good over here for room owners!!
The owners buy house sticks which has those awful plastic threaded tips
which turns flat after 2 days of use. Also many of the tips fall off the plastic,
where I actually have seen players not taking notice that the small
leather tip had fell off and hit the balls with the plastic (kids with parents renting a table).
If this system holds the tip in place and actually makes it possible to put
some good tips on these the pool hall owners should migrate to you're system.

There is only two "cuemen" (forgive me Chris) in the whole country, me
being one of them, but I never get a question about changing tips on house
cues simply because of the cheap $hit they use. If they bother they unscrew
the missing tip and put on a new. If not they leave it...

I'll contact our room owner and make him aware of you're product and I
mention to him that I can do the work.

Is there a hole through the tip section where you put the metal pin through
to change the tip, or is there just a hole with a limited depth?

Do you offer a accurate metal rod to put in the lathe for tip install or do I
still need to mount the whole cue to do a new tip? I would of course mount
the cue for the "ferrule" install but for a new "tip install" the mentioned idea
would speed up things.

In respect of the local pool players with their personal cues ; They are very hyped on new gear, but I'm not sure how they would react on this system.

I'll PM you when I have checked with our room owner.

Kent
 
I sell the tip system to be installed by a cuemaker for $30.
You get 1 ferrule insert and 3 tip holders.
Extra tip holders are $5 each.
I have a tool for installing the ferrule insert and for triming the tip holders when
a replacement tip is being supplied.It can also be used to trim the diameter of the ferrule insert to suite your application.
The tool is $10.
The lathe installing the ferrule insert must have a means of accurately measuring on the
Z axis up to .6 inches.
Once the system is installed on a cue, replacements can then be ordered from who installed the system for you.
I have alog of the cues I have installed the tip on. That way a customer can call or email and I post a tip to them. I record ferrule diameter and tip type.
I charge $60 for installing the tip system into a cue with 3 tip holders and your supplied tips installed,plus postage assuming your ferrule is still in good condition and not cracked.
It is extra if I supply tips.
Available from me are Superpro tips and 1 pce water buffalo.
Neil
 
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