Cue Care: How do you maintain the finish on cues?
- Thread starter mamono
- Start date
I can only quote my favorite writer, who posted the following in this thread earlier.
Rich93 said:
Not very helpful, sorry, but sincere.
Depending on the finish used and what it looks like on your particular cue and where the ding is at, how big it is, how steady your hands are, etc., etc., etc....
I'm sure the cuemakers will probably cringe when they read this, but it's an honest reply.
I don't recommend this often, but if someone is adamant they want to do something, or if the wood might be exposed, I have been known to suggest this. I have done it myself, so I know it works.
If the ding is pretty small, you can drop a small bit of clear fingernail polish in the cavity. Make sure it is dry, before doing anything else. If it needs more, add a little bit until you get it fairly even with the actual finish. The sides will probably be raised, so you'll still need to file it down. For this, I would use one of the padded fabric nail filers you can find in the nail polish department. USE ONLY THE ONES WITH VERY LIGHT SANDING ABILITY and stay strictly on the nail polish area. It is very easy to mess up more of your cue finish, if you aren't very careful about this. Be sure to get the fabric file that also cleans (super-light sanding) and one that polishes. Gently file that bump down and when you get it pretty even with the original finish, use the cleaning file to fine tune it and then polish it with the gray or polishing one. You might not be able to totally smooth the fix to the finish, but at least the cue would be protected.
Another possible suggestion would be to do about the same thing with Super Glue. Careful about those fingers, though! I've never tried this one and do not know if there could be any bad reaction - such as melting - with any of the finishes used on cues. Maybe some of the cuemakers can respond to this with more information.
Whatever you do, keep in mind these are both rather permanent fixes or messes.
NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER use fingernail polish remover, alcohol, paint thinner, or anything similar on your cue, or you could screw up the finish REALLY bad and possibly even damage the cue.
NOTE: If there are any cuemakers out there who would like to try the clear fingernail polish idea and report back on it or add to it, please feel free to do so. It worked quite well for me a couple of times, long ago. I only offer this suggestion as a last resort and in an effort to prevent the wood from damage, if it might be exposed. Otherwise, I agree with the above comment about accepting the fact that a cue will get dings as time goes by and just do your best to prevent it from getting more dings.
That's waht I do as well. Butcher's Wax is good both for the shaft and the coated butt. Just make sure you don't get it on the wrap.
Best regards,
Detlev
It's important to differentiate between cleaning and conserving.
A polish is used for cleaning. Since most polishes are abrasive, you will get a lot of shine from using polish on coated wood. However, a polish does not coat the exposed surface, so it is not suitable as long-term protection. It will neither prevent new pollution nor damage to the surface.
Therefore, I recommend to use a wax after polishing.
It's like a car: After polishing, the coat needs to be preserved in order to make the new shine last as long as possible.
Furthermore, it is good practice to wax often, but to polish only when it is really needed. You will get your car quite shiny by polishing it often, but the coating will get thin after a few years.
Best regards,
Detlev
Sorry, but I have to disagree on this one.
Last time I noticed, my car polish/wax said to clean the car before applying the polish. After years of using the same stuff, I had to change polishes, because mine was discontinued. The new stuff said the same thing.
I'm a dictionary nut, so here comes the definition from Webster's New World Dictionary, published in 2003. (Sorry it's so old, but most of the definitions haven't changed in that time.) You will probably notice it says nothing about polish meaning to clean.
polish - vt. 1 to smooth and brighten, as by rubbing 2 to refine (manners, style, etc.) --vi. to take a polish --n. 1 a surface gloss 2 elegance, refinement, etc. 3 a substance used to polish --polish off {Inf.} to finish (a meal, job, etc.) completely
I"m then tempted to cut off the offending digit! But I resist. Not much to be done Joe... as far as I know. I did that to my favorite collectors piece Frankllin era SW too so I know the pain.
If it's a playing cue then I guess we just play with it.. and learn to be even more careful. I decided that the answer lies in... NO quick moves with the cue... not on the table... not off the table... NO quick moves.
I think this caution and control of the movement of the cue makes my game even more deliberate as I learn to proceed with the idea that every single movement of the cue is to be done precisely. (see the signature
)I'm a project in process.
Detlev is correct... and so are you.
Polish does some cleaning and polishes.
Polish/wax does some polishing and also contains a wax coating... supposedly. I think a lot of the auto polish/wax is hype and the product was designed to sell to users who were trying to avoid going over the car twice. I believe that quality is lost in the attempt to skip a step. In auto finish polishing and protecting you cannot skip a step. If you do you miss out on the results that taking the time and effort to properly perform that step would have provided.
(like shooting without a properly executed pre-shot routine :groucho
I like a dedicated polish followed by a dedicated wax. Auto paste wax is fine but I prefer this stuff for protecting my cue. http://www.poolndarts.com/index.cfm...AE2&Fuseaction=Catalog.Product&productID=5426
I'm somewhat of an lay-expert on the subject of polishing auto finishes and I recommend Poorboy products. www.poorboysworld.com
The owner has owned an auto body shop prior to beginning his own line of auto cleaning products and his products are dedicated to quality with no hype. I foutch for him the same as I would for any cue maker who has real integrity.
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There is no real disagreement between us. On a car (unlike a pool-cue), the process contains three steps:
1. Clean the car from large particles. This is usually done with water and a sponge. (regular)
2. Polish (if necessary)
3. Preserve (often)
Obviously, step 1 should not be necessary as long as you keep your cue indoors and don't lay it on the street
Have a look at the professional product line from Meguiar: They sell no combined products to professionals. To the enthousiast, they sell a lot of polishes and waxes. They sell some waxpolishes as well due to market pressure, but no professional car cleaner would advise you to use such a product. A waxpolish will - due to the abrasive content - remove part of the applied wax in the same step that it is applied. Therefore, you will end up with a much thinner wax coating than with a pure waxproduct.
Since waxpolishes are more often applied than a regular polish, their polishing ingredients are less abrasive. However, they are abrasive.
Best regards,
Detlev
Thanks for the suggestions. I think I will try the finger nail polish routine. It is my playing cue and that ding taught me to be more careful. I buy the old car anology as well but it is a bother when you mess up your favorite cue.
Last night I let my brother-in-law use my cue because nothing else was available. I sat there like a mother hen watching the cue every time he walked around the table or set it down. From now on nobody uses it but me. If it is going to get dinged again, it will be by me. I know the value of a good cue (let alone its monetary worth) to him it is probably comparable to a Wal-mart cue. So I guess that one way to protect your cue is to not let anyone use it.
Last night I let my brother-in-law use my cue because nothing else was available. I sat there like a mother hen watching the cue every time he walked around the table or set it down. From now on nobody uses it but me. If it is going to get dinged again, it will be by me. I know the value of a good cue (let alone its monetary worth) to him it is probably comparable to a Wal-mart cue. So I guess that one way to protect your cue is to not let anyone use it.
I think we have to clarify first what kind of FINISH is being used on the cue.
I believe anyone would agree that if the cue has an automotive finish, then it should be "treated" with automotive cleaning products. If it has an oil finish, then automotive products may not be suitable for such kind of cue.
Another thing that we should clarify is that the modern automotive finish has a "clear coat" wherein there's a base paint (the color) that is sprayed over with a clear paint that adds depth & gloss and also protects the soft base paint unlike the "OLD PAINTS" which were single-stage paints.
Third, due to the marketing garbles used by different "wax" companies, there has been a confusion with the definition of polishes and waxes Therefore one company may consider their paint protector as POLISH while the other may consider it as a "WAX". Because of this, we can't really rely on DICTIONARY definitions because unless the "wax" companies sit down and truly define/differentiate a polish and a wax, we will have to take a look at their characteristics in order to know their real intended application.
With these 3 points clarified, I can only share my experience in cleaning/maintaining my cues which all have the modern automotive "clear coat" finish, hence I treat my cues as I do with my cars.
Why I use automotive products? Because they are designed to take care of the said finish. Some other products may be too harsh for the clear coat and, so, may thin it out or even completely ruin it. If you are not a professional auto detailer then you're better off with the off-the-shelf products which say "clear-coat safe".
Why wiping alone for me is not enough? Think of your cue's finish like a book. No matter how careful you are in handling it or how often you wipe your book's main cover, it will still accumulate stubborn dirt. However, if you put a plastic cover over the main cover, you will be able to preserve it more. The "wax" system acts like a plastic cover that protects the finish.
Here's my edited post from previous thread/forums on how I maintain my cues:
I believe anyone would agree that if the cue has an automotive finish, then it should be "treated" with automotive cleaning products. If it has an oil finish, then automotive products may not be suitable for such kind of cue.
Another thing that we should clarify is that the modern automotive finish has a "clear coat" wherein there's a base paint (the color) that is sprayed over with a clear paint that adds depth & gloss and also protects the soft base paint unlike the "OLD PAINTS" which were single-stage paints.
Third, due to the marketing garbles used by different "wax" companies, there has been a confusion with the definition of polishes and waxes Therefore one company may consider their paint protector as POLISH while the other may consider it as a "WAX". Because of this, we can't really rely on DICTIONARY definitions because unless the "wax" companies sit down and truly define/differentiate a polish and a wax, we will have to take a look at their characteristics in order to know their real intended application.
With these 3 points clarified, I can only share my experience in cleaning/maintaining my cues which all have the modern automotive "clear coat" finish, hence I treat my cues as I do with my cars.
Why I use automotive products? Because they are designed to take care of the said finish. Some other products may be too harsh for the clear coat and, so, may thin it out or even completely ruin it. If you are not a professional auto detailer then you're better off with the off-the-shelf products which say "clear-coat safe".
Why wiping alone for me is not enough? Think of your cue's finish like a book. No matter how careful you are in handling it or how often you wipe your book's main cover, it will still accumulate stubborn dirt. However, if you put a plastic cover over the main cover, you will be able to preserve it more. The "wax" system acts like a plastic cover that protects the finish.
Here's my edited post from previous thread/forums on how I maintain my cues:
Here's what I do:
FERRULE
*Cover the tip & wood part of the shaft. Brush the ferrule with moistened old toothbrush & toothpaste to remove dirt, then wipe dry
SHAFT
For regular maintenance, burnish & clean it at the same time with a SUEDE microfiber (Microtex)
When the shaft gets really dirty:
*I use a mircrofiber terry cloth and damp it with mild soap & water solution (cloth must be squeezed dry so as not to wet the shaft), & wipe it briskly onto the shaft not long enough to let moisture reach the shaft's core, which can lead to warpage.
*Then I burnish it quickly to remove the moisture instantly
*You may use Magic Eraser but make sure to squeeze it dry. You may need 2000+ grit sandpaper to smoothen it
*I'm not a fan of using alcohol since it's a foreign substance to wood and therefore may affect its molecular structure (trees live on water, not on alcohol). The mere fact that alcohol stings our skin when we have wounds, the effect may also be the same with wood
BUTT
Regular Maintenance:
*I use 2 terry cloth microfibers (California brand) to wipe the butt after the game. A damp microfiber to remove oil & dirt, and a dry one to dry it of course
*I apply a wax (3M Perfect-It or Mothers Carnauba) once a month to protect my cue butts from dirt and oxidation such as sweat
Quarterly Maintenance:
*Since all of my cue butts have automotive finish, I use a 3-step wax detailing system, just like what I do with my car, to keep them shiny (I use MOTHERS):
1. Pre-Wax Cleaner- prepares the finish for steps 2&3 by removing oxidation, old wax build-ups and other contaminants (such as stubborn/unseen chalk dusts). This mild polish smoothens the edges of larger imperfections and removes small scratches. Your paint’s appearance is dependent on a good polishing — Mothers® Pre-Wax Cleaner should be used at least once or twice a year. (from Mothers website)
2. Sealer & Glaze- Regular application of Mothers® Sealer & Glaze will increase your paint’s depth and luster. Whatever the color, it will give your paint added character and a brilliant, glowing shine. Sealer & Glaze fills and hides minor swirls and defects, minimizing unsightly visual imperfections. It also contains a super-fine polish that further improves the paint surface. Sealer and Glaze is key to giving both light and dark colors their perfect finish.(from Mothers website)
3. Wax- protects steps 1&2 by acting as a sacrificial layer against dirt (such as chalk dust) & oxidation (such as sweat which is quite acidic)
4. Scratch Remover- for removing scratches/swirls that can no loner be removed or filled in by steps 1&2
NOTE: Be careful of the type of cloth that you use on your cues especially on the butt. You'll notice that cloths have different weaves or loops. SUEDE microfibers are more suitable for burnishing but not polishing as it doesn't trap dirt well because of it's smoother weave, therefore it can scratch the finish if used on the cue butt. Terry cloth microfibers have bigger loops to trap dirt, hence suitable for polishing (and even washing cars). Also, don't use the same cloth on the butt as you do with the shaft as chalk from the shaft gets trapped on the cloth and if used on the butt, might act like a sandpaper and therefore ruin the butt's finish.
Hope this helps
IIRC, Dan Dishaw recommended this years ago. I have one of his cues, by the way. Dan used to and, maybe still does, made/makes/repairs wood musical instruments. I think this is the stuff he talked about, but I haven't tried it to date. I may search some out now, though.
Most cue finishes are compatible with CA (Super Glue) in fact many cue makers using automotive finishes will use it for touch up if they find a minor flaw after spraying on the finsh. It is easier than mixing up a new batch of finish and it is impossible to tell.
Ca, also works great for repairs of nicks or minor chips, however, it must be used by some one who knows how to properly buff out the cues finish afterward to cover up the problem. Locally I can normally correct minor problems with outstanding results using this method, however, I do not recommend doing this if you have never done it or do not have the proper equipment.
But to answer your question Joel, in most cases the repair is not even visible and another refinish is not required.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for that info, Craig. I was a bit concerned about the offer of Super Glue, because I used to do a lot of sewing and crafts and I made quite a few belts out of a certain type of vinyl. I did absolutely no sewing on them, as the Super Glue heated them up and melted them together quite well. So, I know it melts some plastic-like materials. I know cuemakers use Super Glue a lot and that it is even used as a finish by some, but I wasn't real sure if any of them use any finishes that might react negatively to it as a 'fix'.
Wax
Yes I agree wax is a good idea but with todays finishes it still takes around three monthes for the finish to fully cure. finish cures from the outside in and when you sand it you open up pores in the finish and that allows the gasses to escape and when you put wax on a cue before it is fully cured it covers up the holes and retains the gasses not letting it fully cure. But as long as it is not a freshly sprayed cue "at least three months" there shouldnt be a problem with it. as far as protecting the finish when I was building cues I would give it a light coat of a show and shine any kind will work as long as it didnt have any wax or silicones in it. Thats my two cents take it for what its worth. :thumbup:
Yes I agree wax is a good idea but with todays finishes it still takes around three monthes for the finish to fully cure. finish cures from the outside in and when you sand it you open up pores in the finish and that allows the gasses to escape and when you put wax on a cue before it is fully cured it covers up the holes and retains the gasses not letting it fully cure. But as long as it is not a freshly sprayed cue "at least three months" there shouldnt be a problem with it. as far as protecting the finish when I was building cues I would give it a light coat of a show and shine any kind will work as long as it didnt have any wax or silicones in it. Thats my two cents take it for what its worth. :thumbup:
Thanks manwon. If I do some trial runs with Krazy Glue on test dowels or an old cue stick (finished with spray on polyurthene) would that give a simaler result to learn how to do it? From what I read Krazy Glue is CA glue. Or would you recommend a different product?
Krazy Glue is certainly Ca, and doing tests is on something that is expendible is a good idea if you want you try and learn how to do the repairs yourself. But, you must have a lathe to buff out the repair, or you will not be able to bring the shine of the finish back to where it was before your repair.
Here is a link that may help, if you need some additional information please PM me and I will attempt to answer any question that I can to help you.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=58735&highlight=super+Glue+finish
Take care
Cleaning the wrap ,and another shaft sealer
Use damp dowel and wipe chalk dust off -let dry 5-minutes. Then go the kitchen drawer and get out the wax paper- buff the wrap with one side of paper then other. ( Or have a cuemaker press the wrap) It will heat up a little and seal( credit to L. Bloodwood) oil base shaft sealer, few drops new motor oil, mix on paper plate with Baby powder- buff shaft makes an oil base finnish ( credit to Richard Black)
Use damp dowel and wipe chalk dust off -let dry 5-minutes. Then go the kitchen drawer and get out the wax paper- buff the wrap with one side of paper then other. ( Or have a cuemaker press the wrap) It will heat up a little and seal( credit to L. Bloodwood) oil base shaft sealer, few drops new motor oil, mix on paper plate with Baby powder- buff shaft makes an oil base finnish ( credit to Richard Black)
I would not recommend putting Motor oil on a shaft, now I think Richard is a great cue maker, but I think he must be suffering from Kersenbrock syndrome.
Craig,
what would you recomment for a shaft? I have used Butcher's Wax for the last year with good success, but I guess there is always room for improvement
Besides, it's not allowed to send Butcher's with international Air Mail. I found an ebay-seller who did not care that much, but that's not an option for everybody. Besides, I had to pay USD 15 for the delivery of a USD 9-item...
Best regards,
Detlev
what would you recomment for a shaft? I have used Butcher's Wax for the last year with good success, but I guess there is always room for improvement
Besides, it's not allowed to send Butcher's with international Air Mail. I found an ebay-seller who did not care that much, but that's not an option for everybody. Besides, I had to pay USD 15 for the delivery of a USD 9-item...
Best regards,
Detlev