Roger Long pocket rating.

Jason Robichaud

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
He has a formula on the homepage to rate your pocket (Pro Cut). I posted a video before on how tough my table plays. According to his formula my table is extra tough and almost the same as the toughest table his has ever see. His toughest is 7.59 and my table is 7.8. It is crazy tight and makes the Diamonds seem nice to play on.

mouth 4 7/8 *
throat 4
/
shelf 2 1/2
= 7.8
 
One note to all measuring their pockets. When measuring shelf, measure from the center of the straight line from point to point at mouth back to the "FRONT EDGE" of the radius of the pocket drop. That's the official measurement of shelf by the WPA and BCA because different manufacturers use different radiuses (1/8" - 1/4") to round the pocket edge. If you measure at the edge of the slate your figures will be off by the 1/8 or 1/4 inch of your table radius.:wink:
 
Measuring shelf depth correctly

One note to all measuring their pockets. When measuring shelf, measure from the center of the straight line from point to point at mouth back to the "FRONT EDGE" of the radius of the pocket drop. That's the official measurement of shelf by the WPA and BCA because different manufacturers use different radiuses (1/8" - 1/4") to round the pocket edge. If you measure at the edge of the slate your figures will be off by the 1/8 or 1/4 inch of your table radius.:wink:

Tbeaux:

Excellent point! Methinks some might've measured alongside the pocket facing, where the slate extends deeper into the pocket than where the "apex" of the pocket drop is. In other words, they might not be placing their ruler dead smack in the middle of the pocket, equidistant from either side of the pocket facings ("splitting the pocket" as a ball would), and measuring from the "earliest point" of the pocket drop, outward towards the beginning of the mouth of the pocket. Not measuring this shelf depth correctly of course, results in skewed results, because the shelf will be calculated to be deeper into the pocket than it really is. If one looks carefully at Roger Long's diagrams in the article, he shows you where to place your ruler to measure each facet of the equation. The double-headed straight arrow in this diagram (the diagram of which is linked here from Roger's article, hope he doesn't mind) shows the correct measurement for shelf depth:
procut.jpg


Hope this is helpful!
-Sean
 
Tbeaux:

Excellent point! Methinks some might've measured alongside the pocket facing, where the slate extends deeper into the pocket than where the "apex" of the pocket drop is. In other words, they might not be placing their ruler dead smack in the middle of the pocket, equidistant from either side of the pocket facings ("splitting the pocket" as a ball would), and measuring from the "earliest point" of the pocket drop, outward towards the beginning of the mouth of the pocket. Not measuring this shelf depth correctly of course, results in skewed results, because the shelf will be calculated to be deeper into the pocket than it really is. If one looks carefully at Roger Long's diagrams in the article, he shows you where to place your ruler to measure each facet of the equation. The double-headed straight arrow in this diagram (the diagram of which is linked here from Roger's article, hope he doesn't mind) shows the correct measurement for shelf depth:
procut.jpg


Hope this is helpful!
-Sean

Well,that too but actually I was indicating the round over radius at the edge of the slate (bevel) but I just checked the WPA specs and they now include the bevel in the shelf depth. The old BCA spec calls for measuring to the middle of the bevel. Different manufacturers rounded the bevel different ,usually 1/8, 3/16 or 1/4. Now the WPA doesn't even list a spec for the bevel round over anymore but the BCA does. In other words if your slate has a measurement of 1 1/2" to the inside edge of the slate drop and you have a 1/4" bevel on the edge use 1 3/8" as your shelf distance if using BCA specs, and 1 1/2" if using WPA specs.
 
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