Is the full splice technique better?
In my opinion, yes.
Now, that being said, ever hit with a Szamboti? Both Gus and Barry do (did) short splice points- four separate pieces set into the v-grooves. They hit as good, if not better, than a full splice does. I had the unique pleasure of hitting with a very old Gus years ago- the chance to buy it too, but I couldn't come up with all the money fast enough. That is a big regret- it went to a collector in Japan in stead.
The reason is in Burton's book: Burton made full-splice blanks for Balabushka and once George got them, he would cut the handle off to add "bushka" rings. So Burton figured why the hell am I doing all this work, when I can send him short splices (by the way, I hate that term for this method)- just a forearm with four seperate points and veneer stacks. WAY easier to make perfect, and he is quite happy with them, and I can control the quality to a higher standard. Everyone is happy.
So, that became the norm in the industry and the full-splice was nearly a totally lost art.
Then Burton's last hoorah was to re-introduce the world to the full-splice blank, and the price of old Titlist cues went through the roof shortly thereafter.
I was always facinated with the 'technology' if you will of just how that joint is done. So, with Burton's book in hand, I made one.
People once again realized that splicing the wood produces a continuous circuit from the joint through the handle, and I fell (as do some others out there) that this is the way to do it. I equate it to the neck-through design of guitar making. Yes, the bolt-on Strat and glued-on Gibson sound great, but the idea of a complete circuit from the nut to the bridge and the strings on top makes (in my opinion) a superior instrument. More sustain, better tone, no problems with alignment. Just better. BUT, it is expensive, and not every custom guitar buyer wants that technique...
Making a full splice with high-precision is not easy- milling four or more points into a turned forearm running on centers IS easy- easy in the fact that a very high level of precision is achievable with relatively low cost equipment. Mill, dividing head, 90 degree cutter, patience. That's all you need to make great forearms.
In a full-splice, if you do not make the splice cuts
absolutely perfectly, the forearm and handle will not splice together perfectly, and the points will not be even when it is turned- there can be NO run out at this joint, because run out leads to uneven points. Some corrections can be made if your stock is large enough, but in general, no one wants to use such huge pieces.
This is why my first cue does not have even points- it was not cut to the level of precision needed for even points. And you see the result.
Think about this- the angle you cut in the forearm is (if I remember back the 10 years ago) 1 degree or so. that shallow angle has
zero tolerance for run-out. 0.003 run out will equate to a clearly visible disparity in finished point height. 0.003 is the thickness of a sheet of paper- not a lot...
I also feel I have a greater respect for those who make a full splice, because I DO understand what is involved in the process first hand, and when a nice even set of points are the result, it is a truly beautiful thing to see and most importantly, to play with!:thumbup: