Coring/lightening a cue.....

cscott67

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a full-splice butt that is already finished and wrapped. I have been playing with it for the past few months and cannot get used to the weight. It is heavier than my last cue. (there is no weight-bolt) Is it possible to drill a 3/8-1/2 hole in the center to lighten it up? Has anyone here done that?
Wondering what kind of bit to use (gun-drill?), and to turn the drill and move the piece into it on the lathe or chuck the butt in the lathe and move the stationary bit into the wood?

Also, does anyone make a bit that long? (30 inches?????)

Thanks for any insight/suggestions, Scott
 
Scott,
You haven't mentioned what woods are used to make up the full-splice.
In any event, I wouldn't drill any deeper than the bottom of the points and probably a lot less than that. It depends on what you need to remove, wght.-wise.
I've cored, or more correctly, hollowed full-splice Ebony butts & Coco butts. I say hollowed because the only core to be installed was a short Maple plug to accommodate a minor wght. bolt system and/or to give the bumper something to attach to.

I've drilled as much as 12" deep with a 3/4" bit (that I made) but others may feel more comfortable with a gun-drill due to their rigidity & stability.

When I made the 3/4" drill, I also made several others in smaller sizes. I would start with maybe 1/2" and work my way up to the 3/4". Each of the smaller drills would act as a pilot drill for the next larger size. Each operation was done using the 'peck-drill' method.

Another factor for concern would be the butt's diameter. The wght. can be removed from the outside or the inside, though I suspect you're wanting to remove it from inside.
If the cue has a stainless collar, you'll remove 1oz just by changing the collar.

You have several options. If you could be more specific about what you have and where you want to go, I'm sure that others will have additional suggestions.

Addendum :

After a little more thought on this matter, I'm guessing that the wood under the wrap is the same as the points and the butt-sleeve.
If that's the case, then that wood can be removed and replaced with any of several different types of lighter wood.
This however requires surgery and might be considered not cost effective. See, you've got more options already.
 
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Kj......

I do not want to core it, or do any "surgery" like replace the handle. It is a full-splice rosewood into tulipwood forearm. Is it unsafe to drill a hole in it without putting a core in? It does have a stainless joint, and I suppose it could be replaced with titanium. (the hit would stay the same)

Any other ideas? (it already has a titanium pin)
 
what is the joint pin,ss or ti?

you could change that if its ss.you could also drop a little weight by drilling a few inches deep into the butt with a large OD bit.
 
I've gun drilled a solid purpleheart cue 3/4" dia. X 14" deep. It took .75 oz. out of the cue. I also fit a light weight maple core back in to add strength back.
 
Craig.....

Do you know if rosewood is is heavier than purpleheart? I guess I could drop it between 2-3 oz by changing the joint and drilling it out. I need to go weigh it. Scott
 
Do you know if rosewood is is heavier than purpleheart? I guess I could drop it between 2-3 oz by changing the joint and drilling it out. I need to go weigh it. Scott

I am no expert, but I can say this with confidence. Doing what you suggest will certainly affect the way the cue hits and feels. I also don't see a way around messing with the balance point either. While I am sure it is possible to attain the weight you are looking for, you may NEVER be happy with the cue.

I don't know how fancy it is or how my money or affection you have for your cue, but you may simply be better off ordering one like it that is built to weigh less from the get go.

Just my .02. Good luck with whatever you choose.
 
You can gun drill to within 2 inches of the points, then glue in a soft maple core. This will reduce the weight and leave a cue without a cavity. If you have a screw in bumper, the bottom of the new core should be replaced with a harder wood. The specific gravity of most rosewoods is about .9 and the soft maple is in the .3 range. A steel joint adds around an ounce. Keeping the same balance point is possible but requires a lot of calculations and a combination of changing the joint and coring the butt.

Your best bet by far would be a new cue.
 
Thanks for the responses..........

Paul, nice to hear from you sir! (I hope your health is doing well, I still use the 4-point 64" purpleheart cue you made for me a couple of years ago)

I realize it will probably change the way the cue hits and feels. I like the way it looks, and am willing to try to make it work! :O) Scott
 
Unless I missed it , there's not enough info.

How much does it the butt weigh now?

How much does the shaft weigh ?

What do you want the total package to weigh ?

Where does it balance now ?

Does balance matter to you ?

How much 'feel are you willing to sacrifice ?

How much do you want to invest in this operation ?

I'd need at least that much info to give any kind of realistic answer.
 
I don't believe in putting your cue through this sort of risk for maybe an ounce difference in weight. Even if you change out the SS collar AND drill it you may gain 1.5-2oz. Any time you try to drill a cue, especially at the bigger diameters as stated, it is a big gamble. It is MUCH easier doing this before the cue is finished.
 
Thanks for all the replies..........

In answer to some of RRJs questions:
I use the same shafts on each cue, doesn't have an effect.
Balance point of the butts by themselves is within 3/4 inch.
I have not weighed them yet!

I do realize it would have been better to do this first, and we did match all the other parameters like length and width and taper. I didn't realize how much of a difference the butt makes in how the cues play.

I will try to get them weighed tommorrow and balance points. Scott
 
Ok, here are the measures and balance points......

The old cue (BUTT) weighs 15.25oz, is 32inches long, and has a balance point that is 17.25 inches from the face of the joint.

(current joint on both is schon style ss with titanium pins)

New (BUTT) is 16.5oz, 32 inch, and has a balance point 16.5 inches from the face of the joint.

So, if I change the joint collar to titanium or ivory, that should lower the weight .5-1oz depending on material, and move the balance point back.

How much would the hit change?????? If I switch from steel to an ivory collar??????

Thanks in advance for any replies, Scott
 
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