Cutting Maple Rings

Here are the pics I took of two of the rings I cut. The first is a 0.045 ring, then I cur a 0.015 ring right after on the same set up with no adjustments other than thickness of cut.


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wierd!!!
you would think it would be the other way around
 
I guess it's one of those unexplained mysteries of cue building!
I was thinking that the 0.015 ring doesn't have enough thickness to hold any kind of warpage.....???
 
I guess it's one of those unexplained mysteries of cue building!
I was thinking that the 0.015 ring doesn't have enough thickness to hold any kind of warpage.....???

theres lots of mysteries,
like why a certain dumass (me) just glued different thickness rings on joint & butt than i have at the wrap :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
i had the 15/1000ths ones laying right there on the lathe,
and i walk away to grab some 7's off my ring rack
a 15/1000ths sharpie oughtta fix it!!!! LOL
 
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If it is heat related, apparently the dissipation ratio is just different. There isn't enough material being sliced off to act as a heat sink? Which gets stock/chips hotter, taking a .015 turning cut, or taking a .050 turning cut?

Kelly
 
So does it even matter if it is warped ? As someone pointed put the thing will flatten out upon installation, assuming there is something to press it into shape (like a thicker ring section behind it, glued up at the same time).

Always curious,

Dave
 
So does it even matter if it is warped ? As someone pointed put the thing will flatten out upon installation, assuming there is something to press it into shape (like a thicker ring section behind it, glued up at the same time).

Always curious,

Dave
if they are only curled it wont matter
but i have noticed on occasion that the thickness may vary from the outer edge of ring to the inner edge
if they arent FLAT, it will show up
when i encounter that, i glue each ring individually, taking a measurement first, and then face that ring to my desired thickness using my indicator to take x amount off
pain in the ass
 
Just a thought, you may be getting some sort of tool deflection when cutting the thicker rings. The thinner ones don't provide as much resistance. maybe a stupid theory but it's all I got :)
 
Just a thought, you may be getting some sort of tool deflection when cutting the thicker rings. The thinner ones don't provide as much resistance. maybe a stupid theory but it's all I got :)
The carbide cutter he has is pretty rigid.
The teeth on those are pretty close to each other and they get dust/chip build-up fast if the blade's not totally square with maple piece.
 
Just a thought, you may be getting some sort of tool deflection when cutting the thicker rings. The thinner ones don't provide as much resistance. maybe a stupid theory but it's all I got :)

It's a shot.
The blades are solid carbide, hence, no deflection. Carbide doesn't flex.
I'm liking Joey's suggestion though. The chip has to exit the tooth that cut it. Load it up and it won't cut.
Again, alignment as close to DNP is critical for best results.
 
I was thinking more along the lines of shaft or bearing on the router as opposed to the carbide. Chip build up sounds very plausible though.
 
Here's my spin, it may not be an alignment issues as much as a moisture issue. The generated heat could be drying out the thin ring but not eliminating the high moisture in the thicker ring, thus causing the curl.

Hey, it's just a theory,
Alan
 
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