Shaft/butt length and playability

hdgis1

hdgis1

New member
Common sense tells me that a longer shaft would have an adverse effect on the stiffness of a cue. How do cuemakers account for this when one orders a longer shaft? Can it be corrected such that a cue maintains the 'hit' desired by that cue?

Does a longer butt have any effect on the size of the joint?

Thanks
Chris
 
taper, joint size, where the taper starts

hdgis1 said:
Common sense tells me that a longer shaft would have an adverse effect on the stiffness of a cue. How do cuemakers account for this when one orders a longer shaft? Can it be corrected such that a cue maintains the 'hit' desired by that cue?

Does a longer butt have any effect on the size of the joint?

Thanks
Chris
Click to expand...


Chris,

Taper, joint size, and where the taper starts and stops can all have a huge contribution to how a shaft hits. The amount of pro taper and the actual taper of the pro taper area have the most to do with how most shafts being made now hit. how the shaft is shaped above the pro taper area also has a lot to do with the stiffness of the hit.

Just for grins I tried a 32" shaft. the added length was in the pro taper section. The thing was a noodle and unplayable in my opinion. I cut it down to 30" and it played just fine. Had the extra length been in the joint end of the shaft I think it would have played fine at 32" but you do have to consider that extra shaft weight when balancing the cue.

Cues that don't use a pro taper don't have nearly the stiffness issues and shafts should be able to be longer without issues.

A long butt has to be designed with the extra length in mind. A smaller joint or smaller diameter butt overall is an easy way to get the weight down but careful selection of woods and coring when necessary can get the weight down without changing the outside dimensions of the butt. Selection of screws, pins, and collars can also help keep weight manageable.

Hu
 
I design for 59" standard and had to wrestle with this a bit.

Not a huge change in length; however to make a 59" cue play like a 58" cue you have to make some very careful and minor adjustments.

Quite a while ago I had a one-off Jos East that was orderd at 59". I wis given a 60" cue, and it did not play very well (too whippy).

So I had Paul Drexler cut a shaft down 1/2" and install a new ferrule. I threw the butt in the lathe and trimmed 1/2" off the butt cap. That was a nice playing cue without the weight bolt...
 
Thanks guys. I think Im gonna stick with 59" as apposed to 60". I'd hate to order a cue that fits but plays like a wet noodle!

Chris

P.S. - 30" butt and 29" shaft
 
Last edited:
According to the white papers I have read the butt should be as long as your forearm and shaft twice as long as your forearm. After that the taper, joint and everything is up to the cue maker. I hope this helps.

P.S. Just pulling your leg :)
 
If the shaft is correctly designed, the joint can be at the 3/4 or 2/3 length point along the cue, and keep the playability of the cue.
There are still alot of people, particuarly in the snooker or english 8 ball that prefer 1 piece cues or the longer front shaft cues.
With my style of cue that I make, the length of the front shaft does not change the playability of the cue. But the joint diameter is different on the 2 cues.
The longer shaft has a bigger diameter joint.
But the 1/2 way jointed cue is the most convienient to travel with.
Neil
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top