Drilling index holes in lathe chuck

rhncue said:
I have an old atlas 24" lathe set up as you have. I removed the chuck, reversed the tail-stock putting it near the spindle and mounted a 5-c spin indexer on the end. This is where I made all of my tubes of deco-rings for some time. I would start the lathe and use the feed so as to get smooth, no manual labor grooves. I finally just started using the CNC. Much easier getting the proper width of the grooves for the different thickness veneers and such. I still have it taking up space in the shop. I need to move it into the back room, dismantle and sell the parts on e-bay.

Dick
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I hear you. I have tried various cut methods with this setup, but I have settled on cutting from underneath using a 1/16th slot cutter. Cutting from underneath, I have to shim the indexer the appropriate amount depending on which billet size (talking OD) I am making. But the benefit is I can use my cross slide and make multiple passes and clean up passes to cut whatever slot width I want. It works well considering the equipment, save for the drawback of a 1/16th minimum size. I actually just feed it manually, though I have done it under power as well.

What do you mean you reversed the tail stock? I set my indexer up on the right pointed toward the headstock because of the router mount position I built (so I can rotate my compound 90 degrees and use the same setup for threading/parting rings). Given the indexer is on the right, reversing a tailstock for support when using this setup to mill vee grooves or perhaps plunge cutting for dot inlays after part is assembled is something I want to try out.

Kelly
 
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BLACKHEARTCUES said:
How are you planning to DRILL these holes?...JER
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I was planning on using a machine shop, but the idea of a premade index plate sounds real good. If I can find one for a 12" chuck. I like the drill press and saw blade idea too. I just don't think I can make a temporary jig that will hold a 90lbs chuck. If I did I think they would break the table on my drill press. Now if I can get my drill press set up over my lathe the saw blade idea may work.

Lots to think about. Thanks for the ideas!!!!!!!!!

Larry
 
Kelly_Guy said:
I hear you. I have tried various cut methods with this setup, but I have settled on cutting from underneath using a 1/16th slot cutter. Cutting from underneath, I have to shim the indexer the appropriate amount depending on which billet size (talking OD) I am making. But the benefit is I can use my cross slide and make multiple passes and clean up passes to cut whatever slot width I want. It works well considering the equipment, save for the drawback of a 1/16th minimum size. I actually just feed it manually, though I have done it under power as well.

What do you mean you reversed the tail stock? I set my indexer up on the right pointed toward the headstock because of the router mount position I built (so I can rotate my compound 90 degrees and use the same setup for threading/parting rings). Given the indexer is on the right, reversing a tailstock for support when using this setup to mill vee grooves or perhaps plunge cutting for dot inlays after part is assembled is something I want to try out.

Kelly
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The lathe I use for this set-up I no longer use and is half buried so it is difficult to take pictures. What I did was put the tail-stock on backwards so that the live center faced the rear of the lathe all the way up close to the chuck spindle nose. I then mounted the spin indexer on the rear of the lathe bed facing toward the head-stock. The carriage is in between these two units. I did this as it gave me more usable travel for the carriage. I used a long nose tool post grinder mounted on the compound so that it is perfectly aligned with the center axis of the work. I then would route the channel from the side going to the depth needed. I used small end mills to get close to the size needed and then would move the indexer one or two degrees to widen the groove the amount needed for a proper fit of the inlaid material. Since nothing is connected to the chuck I could run the lathe without the dowel turning and use the power feed to cut the channel. Piece of cake really if you have a lathe you don't mind leaving set up. I used turn tapered dowels on this same lathe with the use of a boring head offset and a center in the headstock as I have the chuck removed for more room but ended up just leaving it set up for making deco-ring tubes.

Hope this clarifies a little better.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
The lathe I use for this set-up I no longer use and is half buried so it is difficult to take pictures. What I did was put the tail-stock on backwards so that the live center faced the rear of the lathe all the way up close to the chuck spindle nose. I then mounted the spin indexer on the rear of the lathe bed facing toward the head-stock. The carriage is in between these two units. I did this as it gave me more usable travel for the carriage. I used a long nose tool post grinder mounted on the compound so that it is perfectly aligned with the center axis of the work. I then would route the channel from the side going to the depth needed. I used small end mills to get close to the size needed and then would move the indexer one or two degrees to widen the groove the amount needed for a proper fit of the inlaid material. Since nothing is connected to the chuck I could run the lathe without the dowel turning and use the power feed to cut the channel. Piece of cake really if you have a lathe you don't mind leaving set up. I used turn tapered dowels on this same lathe with the use of a boring head offset and a center in the headstock as I have the chuck removed for more room but ended up just leaving it set up for making deco-ring tubes.

Hope this clarifies a little better.

Dick
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My lathe has a flat way, and a way with a V, and the V on the back way sits up higher. I assumed they pretty much all are that way, so I was just wondering how you reversed the tailstock when the bottom of the tailstock is made the same way.

Kelly
 
Kelly_Guy said:
My lathe has a flat way, and a way with a V, and the V on the back way sits up higher. I assumed they pretty much all are that way, so I was just wondering how you reversed the tailstock when the bottom of the tailstock is made the same way.

Kelly
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Sorry Kelly, I never thought about that on most lathes. I did this on an Atlas which has just flat ways. The tail stock may not need reversing on your lathe as long as you have enough travel for your carriage between your tail-stock and your indexer for the length of cut you need.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
Sorry Kelly, I never thought about that on most lathes. I did this on an Atlas which has just flat ways. The tail stock may not need reversing on your lathe as long as you have enough travel for your carriage between your tail-stock and your indexer for the length of cut you need.

Dick
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Yep. I have a 40" lathe, so distance isn't an issue, I just think a center support on opposite end of the piece from the indexer would be nice for heavier cuts, ie vee grooves. The obvious solution is stick a center in the spindle/chuck, but the way I position my router headstock/carriage clearance might be an issue.

Kelly
 
ken ken quarter said:
What is he best or easiest way to mount a 5Cspin indexer to the ways of an 11 x36 Logan? Pictures of your mount if possible. Thanks in advance for any info.

Ken Ken Quarters,qsmith
Q-Spot Billiards
Tulsa, OK.
qspot@tulsacoxmail.com
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I can't answer best or easiest as I only know one method, the one I use. I am on travel and can't take any pictures. It isn't exactly difficult, you just have to be able to machine some parts or have some parts made.

You should know the height from ways to center of spindle for your lathe. You should be able to find out the height of your spin indexer. Given those two, you know how high off your ways your indexer needs to rest so your stock will be the same height as your spindle. It should be fairly obvious why you want the indexer to be at the same height.

Make a pedestal from a base plate and top plate and two riser pieces that makes up the difference in height. Drill and tap holes to secure together, and drill and tap holes in top plate to secure the indexer. You need to clamp the pedestal to the ways some way, perhaps using a swivel with a threaded hole from below, and you may need to recess one side of the bottom of the base plate if one of your ways is the raised V style like mine.

Kelly
 
I look at the chuck yesterday and realised there are three 5/16" holes drilled and tapped in the back of the chuck that would be perfect for mounting a index wheel on. Now the search is on to find someone to make some plates for me. I think this would be the best solution and if I don't like the number of holes I can just change plates. Looked to see if I could find premade chucks for a 12" Bison. No luck on Google.

Thinks guys, Larry
 
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