Slotted weight bolt
- Thread starter sliprock
- Start date
It may be glued in. Try heating it.
Of course, you should be very carful so as not to
harm the finish.
HTH
Dale
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I have a large screwdriver that is cut off a few inches from the flat. I put the cue in my lathe with the butt collar extending and then put the screwdriver shaft in my tail-stock chuck. I then bring the tail-stock forward so that the screwdriver is solidly in the screw and then I lock the tail-stock. This way the screwdriver is not apt to slip out of the screw. I rock the chuck back and forth to see if the screw will loosen. If it won't you can then try putting the torch to the screwdriver hoping that the heat transfer will break down the glue. Usually it works but some times it doesn't.
Dick
I don't have a torch so i use a heavy duty soldering iron on a stand. I double chuck the cue in my lathe with 1/16" rubber strips around it. I put the tip of the iron right on the bolt head. After its hot I spin it out with an oversized screw driver. Not as fast as a torch but it works. I like the tailstock leverage idea also.
I have one of those also that I center drilled and use it with the dead center holding pressure against the back so as not to slip and use a crescent wrench for leverage.
Dick
dave sutton
Banned
sounds dangerous. id slip and chisel something off
weight bolts glued in
i to have had cues with glued weight bolts . here is a trick i learned ,
use a drill 1/8 drill bit center drill bolt about 3/4 to 1 inch deep put drill
in reverse and run it fast, when glue starts to break down it will give off a smell. most of the time that has worked for me.i think that is the best way
keeps most of heat on bolt not cue . hold but of cue with a damp cloth.
as not to over heat cue. i also to keep a bolt from working lose and rattleing will put silicone around the threads in cue and bolt.that will keep it tight and bolt can be removed with no heat. hope this helps
john107 : anderson sc
i to have had cues with glued weight bolts . here is a trick i learned ,
use a drill 1/8 drill bit center drill bolt about 3/4 to 1 inch deep put drill
in reverse and run it fast, when glue starts to break down it will give off a smell. most of the time that has worked for me.i think that is the best way
keeps most of heat on bolt not cue . hold but of cue with a damp cloth.
as not to over heat cue. i also to keep a bolt from working lose and rattleing will put silicone around the threads in cue and bolt.that will keep it tight and bolt can be removed with no heat. hope this helps
john107 : anderson sc
I've removed pins in a way very similar. I drill a hole in the pin about an inch or so deep, reverse the bit and insert into the hole and then put the lathe in reverse and with the tail stock not locked down but with hand pressure pushing the bit into the bolt until the drill bit gets red and melting the glue. Then just release the hand pressure on the back of the tail stock which will relieve the friction so that the bit will cool and weld itself to the bolt and since the lathe is going in reverse, the bolt will screw itself out. I first heard of this from Thomas Wayne back in the 90's on RSB.
Dick
Like Pdcue said I would also try heating it, I would use a soldering iron because with a small tip you can control what you are heating. Also place your hand on the cues butt, if you feel it start getting warm, stop heating it and let it cool, this way you will not hurt the finish.
Good Luck
I never thought of using a chisel. Thanks for the idea
If you center drill why not use ezouts.. I'am not a cuemaker or repairman, but used these to remove bolts when working on cars and around the house. They work great
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True, these will work if the bolts are not glued in or just lightly glued but I don't think they would help much if there is much glue present. I could be wrong of coarse.
Dick