I'm going to ask this for the last time, because it has been ignored in the other 70 pages long thread.
I understand step 1.
Step 2: Align your cue to the edge of the cb... aiming at what? The edge of the ob? The center of the ob?
Step 3: It doesn't matter what your answer is on step 2. This will only work, if your bridge hand is at a certain distance from the cueball.
Aiming at what? Aiming what at what? it's really simple if you did step one then there is only one edge of the cue ball to line up to that is clearly in tune with the sighting you did in step one. I didn't say AIM your cue at the edge of the cueball I said align it to the edge.
And you're wrong about step 3. Because IF your bridge hand lands on the ONLY line that works to push the cueball into the object ball then it doesn't matter at all where your pivot is from, whether your hand is four inches from the cueball or ten inches from the cue ball.
As Stan has said many times this is a VISUAL system - in other words you SEE IT when you do it.
The whole process IS the aiming. It's not aiming your stick at something, it's aligning your body in a certain way so that your stick ends up on the only possible line to shoot the cueball into the object ball.
There are several test shots that you can shoot to see that this is 100% correct.
I can show you a straight in shot that is aimed using Center to Edge and the final placement of the bridge hand is EXACTLY where it would be if I used no aiming system whatsoever and put my hand down on the line.
From there you can move around the semi-circle and you will immediately see how the system is adjusting to the different angles. It becomes perfectly clear at that point that it works.
I have shots on video that are near 90 degrees with the object ball less than a ball's width away and I am actually over cutting them using CTE.
Without CTE I would not even get close to cutting them in the pocket much less over cutting them. I drive them into the rail EVERY TIME.
The point I as making with the three step description is that it's almost impossible to translate the WORDS into a functioning method without someone to instruct you on it. Can someone diagram it? I am sure that someone can and people have in fact diagrammed it.
Those are my simple plain language words describing what I do. I do these three steps every time for every shot.
Sometimes I pivot at ten inches - sometimes I pivot at five inches - sometimes I air pivot on the way into the shot - Sometimes the pivot is easy to see and sometimes it's nearly imperceptible.
Today I shot about 12 minutes on video where I deliberately tried to shoot very slowly showing the cue lining up as described and the pivot back to center and then the shot itself so that people could see it working when someone is trying to shoot very softly and slowly.
Since it was quite hot and sticky in the shop today and I have little time I decided not to try and upload that video. But I will.
Slowly but surely I will build up my understanding of just exactly how this works and the way I will do that is by systematically using it through all the shots on the table.
The "pivot" is what's confusing everyone. Where to pivot, what bridge length, how do you add spin??
The pivot is a naturally occurring thing once you understand step one and two.
Once you stand behind the cueball and correctly do step one and two then step three is pretty much automatic. Not entirely but pretty much if you have correctly aligned yourself using step one and two.
Why not entirely? Because it is possible to second guess yourself and second guess the system when the place your bridge hand lands doesn't "feel" right. This occurs for me mostly on open table shots. So I might try to "adjust" a little into what I "think" is the correct line. And every time I do I miss the shot.
So as I said I am learning or retraining my visual sense to use this system. And when I KNOW how to demonstrate it perfectly then I will also know how to explain why it works in simple terms.
