turning a cue into a breker
- Thread starter champ2107
- Start date
Secaucus Fats
Banned
Phenolic tips have been banned from BCA events / leagues.
I'd suggest a hard ferrule either melamine or Ivorine IV paired with a super hard leather break tip such as the Samsara Jump/Break Tip or the Predator J/B tip. I like my break cues to be somewhat forward weighted with a 13mm shaft. I also prefer to break with a cue that is lighter, say 18 oz, than my shooter (19.75 oz). Some people prefer a break cue that's heavier than their playing cue..it's all good as long as you are pleased with the hit.
:smile:Your avatar makes a good ball breaker.
But, seriously, folks. I think the shaft is real important. You want a lot of diameter--real sturdy without the flex. Dufferins usually break pretty good.
But, seriously, folks. I think the shaft is real important. You want a lot of diameter--real sturdy without the flex. Dufferins usually break pretty good.
Sell the old Duff, take the money and buy a breaker.
But a Duff can make a nice breaker. I usually use an 1/2" uncapped phenolic
ferrule with a Super Pro.
But a Duff can make a nice breaker. I usually use an 1/2" uncapped phenolic
ferrule with a Super Pro.
IMO, you can do pretty good by just putting a pretty hard tip on like a Samsara, White Diamond, etc, but if the shaft taper is whippy at all, it will show up breaking.
A breaker with a 13.5 - 14mm tip and stiff taper is the ideal way to go, but even many break cues aren't this big.
Weight is another factor. . .
You are not breaking with your player for some reason. . .I would guess it is related to weight, balance pt, stiffness or tip maintenance. If it is more than tip maintenance, you probably won't be happy with the Dufferin in the long run.
A breaker with a 13.5 - 14mm tip and stiff taper is the ideal way to go, but even many break cues aren't this big.
Weight is another factor. . .
You are not breaking with your player for some reason. . .I would guess it is related to weight, balance pt, stiffness or tip maintenance. If it is more than tip maintenance, you probably won't be happy with the Dufferin in the long run.
Sadly, no one really knows:
Break cue science
...but it seems like everyone has opinions/theories. :grin-square:
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I would add phenolic Collars at the cues joint to start with, many people do not understand that cue Flex at the joint, flexibility will increase squirt / throw, and phenolic collars will stiffen up the hit and reduce this flexibility. Next I would have a phenolic Ferrule installed on the cue with a leather tip attached to it. When using a cue for breaking one of the first things that will break is the ferrule, by using a phenolic ferrule this problem will disappear and the cue will still hit harder than when using a standard ferrule with a leather tip. Last if possible reduce or increase the cues weight to that of your wifes playing cue, but do not reduce the shaft diameter below 13mm.
JIMO
When my J/B was stolen I took a plain old black Viking player and added an extra hard WB tip and took the weight down to 18oz. I've hit 26mph with it and can usually keep in the range of 21-23mph. I myself prefer a hard leather over phenolic, better control.
The shaft can split at the joint when the flex reaches that area. I have personally shattered a Dufferin house Cue that was chopped in half, even with the original thickness still intact. It was a really stiff taper so all of the energy went to the joint, and pieces flew everywhere like Forest Gump's leg braces. I made another shaft for It, and added tan collars to make sure It did not happen again. I used a phenolic ferrule with white diamond tip that a buddy of mine gave me to try out. I usually use a hard leather tip, but the white diamond is not bad on this setup. It drops balls like flies. first time I used It was on a dead table with a over sized cueball that had more craters then a moon rock, but It consistently pocketed 3 balls or more every time I snapped a rack off. That's just a cue I have played around with.
My personal break cue Is a PH Dufferin house cue that was actually turned down. It has a Purple heart shaft, phenolic ferrule with super pro tip. I have another maple shaft with the same setup that goes with It, and sometimes switch the shafts out. It works pretty well for me, and occasionally I'll get the 8 ball in the side pocket with It.
I use Threaded ferrules on most any break setups that I put together.
I use to use threaded Phenolic Ferrules myself, but I have seen far to many of them crack over time. Most people use a Canvas Phenolic that they buy in 48" rods, and I have found that when this material is cored it weakens it and it will crack sometimes.
To prevent this around two years ago I started using a solid Phenolic Ferrule. I take a 2 1/2 inch piece of Phenolic rod and turn 1 1/2 inches down to a 5/16 / .310 diameter then I bore out a centered hole down the front of shaft, the same principle as installing a new tenon. I notch the turned down section of the ferrule and add epoxy and slide it in.
Since I have been doing this I have not had a ferrule break or a shaft split or crack from this application, and I converted at least 200 shafts or more to this set up. I have also found that doing these ferrule in this manner gives me a more stable solid jump break ferrule, and in my opinion this technique will add to anyones ability to Jump a ball.
Take care
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Craig,
The main thing is that We confidence in whatever methods We use, sound Like Your plenty happy with Yours, and in my book that's what matters, but Are You sure that You didn't get a bad batch or something when You were having the issues You mentioned? I've never had one break with using just the standard threaded and capped method, and following up with a bottom tap. I do use solid rod that I cut and make My own ferrules from, the only difference in what some others might use, may be that I don't use the large weave canvas, I use the tighter linen weave. Not sure that It makes a difference, but other then that My methods are pretty much standard. Not only do they not crack, but they don't even seem to move over time. The transition at the shoulder seems to stay smooth, and over time I can't even feel a lip there like I might expect with a cue used to break with. I guess only more time will tell, but I've done my fair share this way, and no problems so far. I've had issues before with a couple of other weaker materials, but nothing with the phenolic break or jump ferrules. Just the ferrules that are well known for having such issues.
Either way, If the method also seems to help with the play characteristics of the cues you've made the change on then maybe the path the issues lead you down was not such a bad one. I mean that's one of the ways We learn new methods from. You know necessity being the mother of invention and all.
Greg
Greg, I also buy the rod and cut it to size myself, normally I buy the material from Atlas. But I agree necessity is certainly the mother of invention, and the method I am currently using has proven to be very very good. There is no movement at all over time, first because the shoulder of the ferrule is supported on the shoulder of the shaft, but also because the turned section go's into the center of the shaft. Like I said above because the ferrule is solid it gives a much more solid hit than the cap version and also because it is solid it really does allow a person to jump using half the power you would normally need.
Try one yourself, I would be willing to bet you will see an immediate difference in the hit, and the power generated when jumping.
Have a great holiday Greg!!